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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 04-19-2017, 01:33 PM
  #241  
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Originally Posted by vwduud
Although 2WD, Frank Root talks about the changes made to the 22 4.0 when it comes to correcting the roll center when running low ride heights, needed when racing on carpet.

For what its worth (about the 3 minute mark):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AR0lzY9s7c
I think there was a video that Associated released not too long ago on their B64... I want to say they worked on the geometry in similar fashion to lowering the gear box or something along those lines with respect to lowering roll center as well for optimal carpet racing which seems to be taking over the world by storm, that said I'm sure the tuning box will still be accommodating for low grip conditions.

Regardless, I'd be shocked if Tekno didn't take into account for the need to allow their team of drivers to run on all track types.
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Old 04-19-2017, 02:05 PM
  #242  
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+1 . Having a vehicle that can adjust to multiple conditions would be a plus even if it was to say buy part A here, B there.
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Old 04-19-2017, 02:13 PM
  #243  
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I may be out if my league here but I'm willing to bet a set of 4wd tires that Tekno will be going shaft driven for sure.
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Old 04-19-2017, 06:21 PM
  #244  
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Originally Posted by billdelong
Is there such a thing as dirt/carpet distinction for 4WD's? My understanding is that with 2WD mid motor layouts, there are various laydown options with motor mounting locations where less grip = farther back on the chassis and more grip = farther forward the motor is mounted.

I think the bigger question is if the EB410 will be shaft or belt drive?
Will it support shorty, saddle, brick... or all of the above?

These are probably key indicators for what traction conditions the car is more suited to handle, droop stops would be icing on the cake
Yes there is. The B64 comes in a dirt version and high traction version. My main point is the xray xb4 2017 is solely focused on high traction out of the box. While I can buy all the parts to make it suit my track it would be very costly. I am really hopping the Tekno doesn't go to this same extreme if they only offer one version. For me the B64D is perfect on paper but the build quality and durability is no where near xray or tekno.
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Old 04-19-2017, 09:07 PM
  #245  
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Originally Posted by Cain
Having a vehicle that can adjust to multiple conditions would be a plus even if it was to say buy part A here, B there.
having a vehicle that can adjust to multiple conditions doesn't mean they can't release a dirt and carpet version. while yes, i can buy a dirt version B64d and buy the parts to better suit it to carpet, the cost of the parts would be more than starting with the carpet version B64. nothing "gimicky" about it. they've produced a versatile platform and tailored the kits to one extreme or the other. tekno would be wise to follow that model (with the exception of a delayed release of one or the other like AE did. that's a bit gimicky imo because people who just want the new release end up buying the first one and then paying again to convert it to the car they want).
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Old 04-20-2017, 04:39 AM
  #246  
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Hoping for shaft drive! Depending on the layout, I'd love to do a rally car conversion!
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:55 AM
  #247  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
having a vehicle that can adjust to multiple conditions doesn't mean they can't release a dirt and carpet version. while yes, i can buy a dirt version B64d and buy the parts to better suit it to carpet, the cost of the parts would be more than starting with the carpet version B64. nothing "gimicky" about it. they've produced a versatile platform and tailored the kits to one extreme or the other. tekno would be wise to follow that model (with the exception of a delayed release of one or the other like AE did. that's a bit gimicky imo because people who just want the new release end up buying the first one and then paying again to convert it to the car they want).
Actually if tekno's parts that would be specific for one version or another would work out cheaper than buying a full on carpet or dirt car or the specifc, I rather that option. It would all depend on how their design is and what they feel is specific to one surface versus another that requires a specific type of part.

We will just have to wait and see what they do in that regards.
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Old 04-27-2017, 06:58 AM
  #248  
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I'm curious how the tall shocks will work on carpet tracks, strictly from a CG standpoint. AE went through the trouble of lowering the rear shocks by 3mm for the B6/B64. Maybe there will be a carpet vs dirt setup option with shorter/lower shocks?

Also, going to toss in my speculation on the chassis layout:
Copy of their current platforms with the motor on the right, center diff/slipper in the rear, and shorty pack on the left. This would allow them to have that sharp taper at the rear of the car seen in the videos. Servo on the left with the battery with space for the ESC and RX in front of the motor on the right, keeping with the info given that not much wiring is needed. That puts the ESC and motor tabs within an inch and the battery just a short jump over the center driveshaft. I think the driveline will be raised just enough to let the servo be mounted partially under the front driveshaft, but it will be 90 degrees to the more common layout with the mounting screws facing out the left side for easy access. A shorty servo won't be long enough to go under the driveshaft, but a regular size servo would.
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:42 PM
  #249  
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Just like a mini EB48.x
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Old 04-28-2017, 09:32 AM
  #250  
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Originally Posted by Krio
I'm curious how the tall shocks will work on carpet tracks, strictly from a CG standpoint. AE went through the trouble of lowering the rear shocks by 3mm for the B6/B64. Maybe there will be a carpet vs dirt setup option with shorter/lower shocks?

Also, going to toss in my speculation on the chassis layout:
Copy of their current platforms with the motor on the right, center diff/slipper in the rear, and shorty pack on the left. This would allow them to have that sharp taper at the rear of the car seen in the videos. Servo on the left with the battery with space for the ESC and RX in front of the motor on the right, keeping with the info given that not much wiring is needed. That puts the ESC and motor tabs within an inch and the battery just a short jump over the center driveshaft. I think the driveline will be raised just enough to let the servo be mounted partially under the front driveshaft, but it will be 90 degrees to the more common layout with the mounting screws facing out the left side for easy access. A shorty servo won't be long enough to go under the driveshaft, but a regular size servo would.
Who said we had tall shocks on this car?
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Old 04-30-2017, 11:54 AM
  #251  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
Who said we had tall shocks on this car?
Good to know that's the only thing I got wrong in my speculation.
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:31 PM
  #252  
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any testing being done with the vehicle from a 13.5 spec class perspective?

Will machined pistons be considered to be included out of the box?
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:42 PM
  #253  
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how does this buggy go with stock 17.5 class
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:54 PM
  #254  
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Originally Posted by coombes
how does this buggy go with stock 17.5 class
I'd be surprised to see this buggy in a 17.5 class tbh. It sounds like mod is the main focus with a side of 13.5. Not sure if they have considered 17.5 as well.
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Old 04-30-2017, 07:49 PM
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be cool if they did consider that as some countries I heard run 17.5 for their 4wd buggy class. Which, I think is a good thing whether its 13.5, 17.5 etc. as it offers someone the ability to get into the class with controllable power versus full on mod.

Last edited by Cain; 05-01-2017 at 06:16 AM.
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