Bruce_R

iTrader: (8)

Thanks. I guess that makes sense that it's on the B64 and not the other 2 then. Just out of curiousity, how do you know this? Is it published somewhere?

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

MiCk B

iTrader: (2)

Hi,

Is anyone have an issue with lots of bump steer when running the V2 steering rack and the V2 Ackerman plate.
I've a 2mm washer under the ball stud on the steering rack, to stop the ball cup hitting at full suspension compression.

MiCk B. :-)

RogerM

I had the opposite issue. In order to be able to get zero bump steer with 7deg castor blocks, highest axles and low kick up I had to raise the rack by 2mm.

With 10deg blocks it is just about right with no spacers anywhere but still better with the rack raised 0.5mm.

Personally on astro I don't like the V2 steering plates, much prefer the +2 plates as it makes the car much smoother.

Phat-Boy

iTrader: (25)

I had problem, added 2mm washer and no problem. Using front inside V2 rack location with plate atm.

stueys

Hi Roger, can you explain the differences between the +2 plates and the V2 please? I have changed my car to the new bits (rack, steering plates and bellcrank arm) and it is still quite twitchy. Cheers :-)

RogerM

OK, I'll try.

The V2 steering arms put the ball stud around 0.5mm away from the pivot (longer arm) and about 0.5mm nearer the centre line of the car than kit arms. This should slightly smooth out the steering, I haven't calculated the nominal change in ackerman from this but estimate around a 2 degree change.

The +2 steering arms move the ball stud 2mm closer to the centre line of the car along the original axis relative to the centre of the wheel.This significantly smooths out the steering at the loss of a bit of overall steering, perfect for astroturf. The nominal ackerman difference is approximately 6 degrees by my calculation.

I use the +2 arms almost everywhere.

OK, now the servo horn and bell-crank arm. I have to say I don't get it. For a given rotation of the servo you will get more displacement of the steering draglink for a longer servo arm which results in a a bigger change at the wheel for the same steering input on the transmitter. They then say use the outer hole on the bell crank plate which will reduce this effect but the change in the bell crank arm length verses the servo horn length is very slight (nearly 5:1) so it is hardly noticeable.

Personally I prefer to use the standard bell-crank position along with a kit length servo horn, if I want to reduce twitchiness a bit more then I'll run the outer bell crank hole with the kit length servo horn.

As for locations on the new rack the one you'll want to smooth the steering out most is the rear outer hole.

stueys

Thanks again Roger for the explanation. I have refitted the +2 arms, and I
already have the ballstuds fitted in the rear holes of the rack. According to the press release, it says 'adjustable bellcrank arm (using shortest position)' which I took to mean the inner hole. This obviously required the end points turning down compared to the centre or kit bellcrank hole. That was all the info given on the new parts. I will try this next time out and see how I go :-)

BRSracing

iTrader: (67)

Got a email from Team Associated today that the B64D has been discontinued.

sdphilips

iTrader: (37)

B64.1D....maybe including all of the update parts?

just my .02

Scott

youngrigo

iTrader: (7)

Probably the updated steering components and the shorter rear arms... Wonder if they will keep the same chassis or create a shorter chassis

tony q

iTrader: (35)

antivert

I got the same email.

MiCk B

iTrader: (2)

Hi,
I raised the rack by 2mm, still needed 0.5mm on the rack to stop the ball cup hitting the rack at full compression. But bump steer is near zero now.
Much happier with the car.

Cheers for the info.

MiCk B. :-)

YankeeFan123

iTrader: (72)

If anyone is looking for a clean B64D I'm testing the waters to unload mine, finally got it dialed, but I don't like going back and forth from 2w to 4w. I posted a pic of my wiring a little back and since then dumped ~$100 in it, chrome shock shafts, new 10deg caster blocks, some Ti screws, PM if you'd like more pictures

Edit: Also just put on the new V2 steering rack and carbon fiber steering arms.