rigor

iTrader: (44)

I run on high grip clay with slicks. That Schelle top deck was a fantastic upgrade. Felt I could push the car harder through the corners.

2hundy

I've just started the b64 build.

The slipper assembly bearings feel tighter than I would expect. It's a little too wide to drop into the motor mount, it needs a little force to fit. Looking more closely at the design, the slipper pad thickness effectively determines bearing to bearing distance in the assembly.

Will this loosen up after a pack or two?

Robbob

iTrader: (8)

I would check the slipper pads just to be sure they're on correctly and not tweaked causing it. Also maybe loosen the screws up to the motor mount and plastic carrier then slide the slipper in and re tighten? Maybe that'll help line things up or at least tell you its not a cause.

Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

I would loosen the two diff mounts on the chassis, then put the slipper in and re-tighten them. They are probably just misaligned a little.

Finalist

anyone else like the B64 better than the Tekno? B64 seems to be at least as durable (B64 is more durable at my track) and the B64 seems to corner better. So far the Tekno reminds me of the TLR wheeler more than anything as far as driving feel.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

I do. I've driven a friends 410 and it doesn't suit my driving style. It's definitely a great car, but It will take more to convince me to switch.

I drive my B64 like a full size car. I brake in a straight line before the corner, coast the first half of the turn, gradually accelerate after the apex, and then punch it when I'm pointed in the right direction. Driving like that with the Tekno was much slower. To get the 410 to rotate through the corner, I had to get on the throttle as soon as I was done braking. Lap times were similar if I drove that way, but it was less consistent.

Since I drive 2wd classes as well, the B64 lets me keep the same driving style between cars. This makes it much easier to run multiple classes on a given race day and not feel like I have to relearn each car every qualifier.

Chr1s

iTrader: (1)

I have not seen a tekno that looks better than my b64 yet. I'm sure tekno will be fine once they get their setups sorted.

Overthetopracin

What type of C Clips has everyone been using?

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

3/8" Snap rings, you can probably find them at your local hardware store

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

I own all 3 (B64D, 22-4 2.0, EB410). Personally I think the advantages of the B64D are lighter weight, more tunability, and it flies through the air flatter. But the EB410 has more steering out of the box and feels like it uses all 4 wheels for acceleration more, while the B64D seems to drive more like a 2WD buggy.

22-4 has ridiculous throttle precision and smoothness in the drivetrain which seems to translate to more traction on throttle.

All my own opinion.

eddosi

iTrader: (5)

must be great to have 3 good platforms but how do you choose what to drive?

KCodd

iTrader: (2)

How many are running the brass b block? What difference if any did you notice?

rigor

iTrader: (44)

Puts a little more weight on the nose, giving a more direct and planted steering feel, IMO.

aracefan

iTrader: (70)

I hate to ask this as I'm sure the information is somewhere in this thread, but without having to read through over 2900 posts. . .

Just picked up a new B64D to run at our local clay track, can someone chime in as to what "upgrades" or spares I should have on hand once I race it??

Plan on running an 8.5 or possibly a 10.5 as I think we only have a mod 4WD buggy class.

Thanks in advance guys (and yes, my laziness is legendary )

cbazq271

I ran one for awhile. Helped give it a little more steering, but I kept bending it. Just a little hit, like a front heavy or off angle landing would bend the ears where the inserts back. If you crashed at all, even a little hit it would bend it really bad. I would have to take it off and bend it back after every track day. The brass B blocks may work great for 2wd cars, but on a 4wd car, I think the added front end weight and added power up front, makes the brass block to soft to work. I switched to the type 1 steering brackets and got the same amount of steering that the brass b block was getting. If you need to add weight up front I would run the steel plates instead of the brass block. I run on a tight carpet track so maybe on dirt , where the ground is a little more forgiving, the brass block might hold up better.