TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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#1683
Is anyone else snapping pins running the MIP layshafts? I only run 13.5 and fell victim to the snap. I've seen mod guys break the pin but not in 13.5 The pin in the MIP is hallow. Could a solid pin be run and still enjoy the lighter weight? Looks like I'll test fit some pins before Friday.
#1685
I gear my short stack Reedy 13.5 a tooth lower because it's a high RPM motor and seems to make better power spinning up high.
#1686
Tech Regular
iTrader: (33)
Is anyone else snapping pins running the MIP layshafts? I only run 13.5 and fell victim to the snap. I've seen mod guys break the pin but not in 13.5 The pin in the MIP is hallow. Could a solid pin be run and still enjoy the lighter weight? Looks like I'll test fit some pins before Friday.
#1687
Tech Regular
iTrader: (33)
T-works alum shafts have a solid steel pin in them. No issues so far!
https://www.rc-tworks.com/collection...t-for-tlr-22-4
https://www.rc-tworks.com/collection...t-for-tlr-22-4
#1688
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
I have quite a bit of time on the T-works shafts and no issues so far. I put them on the back in Dec and have run them through stock nats at OCRC on high bite and even ran them on a bumpy outdoor track with good traction. Lets just say my slipper is locked the entire time so I am putting all the forces through the shafts and they are still going strong. T-works uses a steel pin press fit it looks instead of the roll pins MIP uses.
#1689
I have quite a bit of time on the T-works shafts and no issues so far. I put them on the back in Dec and have run them through stock nats at OCRC on high bite and even ran them on a bumpy outdoor track with good traction. Lets just say my slipper is locked the entire time so I am putting all the forces through the shafts and they are still going strong. T-works uses a steel pin press fit it looks instead of the roll pins MIP uses.
#1691
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
So I have been having some success with my 2.0 but have also had some issues. We have a few 180's and a downward section that is from top to bottom, almost 7' with a 90 degree right hander into a set of doubles. I get down that section ok, but turning for the doubles half the time my buggy seems to feel like someone pulled a handbrake and I spin, like a dog bone popped out, but it never did, I get marshalled straight, and I keep going. It happens in other places, when I am turning, the buggy all of a sudden abruptly stops or stutters mid corner for a second, then It keeps going. I checked my steering, I am using the optional aluminum C Ackerman steering arms (331020). I get full lock to the right but not to the left, it physically cannot go any further, and only makes it to with 2mm from hitting the caster block. I'm not sure if the items are related or separate. My sons 1.0 has the more common 334009 aluminum arms and they go lock to lock easily, is the C Ackerman to blame? The rod between the arms is the same length, and I am using the TLR A/B aluminum horn. This may be the real reason I have this overall lack of rear traction.
#1692
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
I solved one issue. The C Akerman arms are straight and that right arm would bang up against the spur fear cover not allowing full throw to steer left. I need to shorten the tie rod between the two aluminum arms. Shorter than stock. What will this do exactly to the steering and/or Ackerman?
#1693
I solved one issue. The C Akerman arms are straight and that right arm would bang up against the spur fear cover not allowing full throw to steer left. I need to shorten the tie rod between the two aluminum arms. Shorter than stock. What will this do exactly to the steering and/or Ackerman?
A picture or video would be helpful.
#1694
Looks like a new body coming
#1695
I was hoping for a 22 4.0 inspired body!