649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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02-16-2019, 12:26 PM
#9106
been racing for about 6 months now and was qualifying into A mains with my b4 but was getting my ass kicked by all the new gen cars so i had to go out and pick up a new gen car myself. my local is a medium high masonite/capet mix so i ended up getting a b6 with a ball diff installed for 190 which isn't bad. came with brand new tires never glued, i was wondering whats with the b6 shock towers and how come they are pretty much extinct to the new geometry towers, im finding it hard setting up my car cause i cant tell what towers the ft drivers are using in their b6 setups from a couple years ago.
also what are all the adaptable b6.1 parts i can put on my car besides the arms and tower, would a 6.1 front chassis brace fit on a b6? thanks, looking forward to this race season.
also i did upload photos but apparently i can not upload until i make 10 posts on this forum which is kind of dumb lol.
also what are all the adaptable b6.1 parts i can put on my car besides the arms and tower, would a 6.1 front chassis brace fit on a b6? thanks, looking forward to this race season.
also i did upload photos but apparently i can not upload until i make 10 posts on this forum which is kind of dumb lol.
02-16-2019, 04:17 PM
#9107
02-25-2019, 04:45 AM
#9108
Hi, I´ve bent the Gear diff washers on one side.
The washers doesn´t seem to be sold separately(?)
If I remember right, I read somewhere that you can use XRAY washers instead, if yes, what´s the part number?
The washers doesn´t seem to be sold separately(?)
If I remember right, I read somewhere that you can use XRAY washers instead, if yes, what´s the part number?
03-04-2019, 02:01 PM
#9110
Im running a Hobbywing Justock with fixed timing HW 17.5 motor. 69/35 gearing on a small indoor track and the motor is just bearly getting luke warm. This gearing is higher than what i see a lot of setup sheets running with 0º of timing.
Is it possible im overlooking something? or should i continue to get bigger pinions. I do need a little more speed in order to clear a jump on one spot of the track. Thanks for any insight.
Is it possible im overlooking something? or should i continue to get bigger pinions. I do need a little more speed in order to clear a jump on one spot of the track. Thanks for any insight.
03-04-2019, 02:45 PM
#9111
Im running a Hobbywing Justock with fixed timing HW 17.5 motor. 69/35 gearing on a small indoor track and the motor is just bearly getting luke warm. This gearing is higher than what i see a lot of setup sheets running with 0º of timing.
Is it possible im overlooking something? or should i continue to get bigger pinions. I do need a little more speed in order to clear a jump on one spot of the track. Thanks for any insight.
Is it possible im overlooking something? or should i continue to get bigger pinions. I do need a little more speed in order to clear a jump on one spot of the track. Thanks for any insight.
03-04-2019, 06:05 PM
#9112
Depends on the jump but just continuing to increase gearing may make it difficult to clear the jump. The taller you go with the gearing the slower you accelerate so if the jump has a short runup then you might have issues. I run 27/72 with a tekin spec r but many run 30/72 with more normal motors.
03-24-2019, 07:23 PM
#9113
Hi
Is there a supplier of quality dogbone replacement pins?
I found this but do not know about their quality. https://dialedhobbies.com/6mik-dogbo...-8mm-10-detail
Thanks
Is there a supplier of quality dogbone replacement pins?
I found this but do not know about their quality. https://dialedhobbies.com/6mik-dogbo...-8mm-10-detail
Thanks
03-25-2019, 03:44 AM
#9114
Tech Apprentice
Hello
I have ran at last weekend in our national / XRS compete.
B6 powered by combo blinky justock 13.5t on the technical track and brand new EOS carpet.
Big suprise was change springs set from b6.1 front/back - orange/blue and oils 550/450. Previous was stock springs from box and 500/400 oil. Also oil in diff 8k/4sattelite.
Highly recomended this springs for our b6's cars. Cars was less entry corner but mid and end corner definitely better. I can driver faster with on power and tighter in the corners like others. We have quite strong final A - similar than EOS stock series.
I have ran at last weekend in our national / XRS compete.
B6 powered by combo blinky justock 13.5t on the technical track and brand new EOS carpet.
Big suprise was change springs set from b6.1 front/back - orange/blue and oils 550/450. Previous was stock springs from box and 500/400 oil. Also oil in diff 8k/4sattelite.
Highly recomended this springs for our b6's cars. Cars was less entry corner but mid and end corner definitely better. I can driver faster with on power and tighter in the corners like others. We have quite strong final A - similar than EOS stock series.
03-25-2019, 07:40 AM
#9115
Hi
Is there a supplier of quality dogbone replacement pins?
I found this but do not know about their quality. https://dialedhobbies.com/6mik-dogbo...-8mm-10-detail
Thanks
Is there a supplier of quality dogbone replacement pins?
I found this but do not know about their quality. https://dialedhobbies.com/6mik-dogbo...-8mm-10-detail
Thanks
04-04-2019, 06:40 AM
#9116
04-15-2019, 09:40 AM
#9117
I just picked up a used B6 for playing around with at the track, indoor clay. Without starting a religious war, what am I looking for with regards to electronics? The car comes with an older 17.5 motor, and I intend to stay with there. But what about the battery and ESC? What kind of amperages can I expect so I can properly size both of them. Also what about a servo? Any special considerations for the size? I'm also assuming I don't need the massive torque specs I run in my basher trucks, so what is a good starting place?
Thanks,
Thanks,
04-15-2019, 10:22 AM
#9118
Welcome to the party, estill!!
Battery - Any decent "Shorty" 2s lipo. Good stuff is inexpensive and easy to find. No need to overthink this one. Turnigy (from hobby king), SMC racing, etc, Check to see what your track sells, if they're within $10-20/pack, give them the sale. Ditto the rest of the stuff.
ESC - Hobbywing XR10 "Justock". No need for anything more, unless you know you'll run modified in the future.
Servo - 100oz/in torque or more, as fast as your budget allows. MUST have metal gears. These cars don't have servo savers anymore.
Battery - Any decent "Shorty" 2s lipo. Good stuff is inexpensive and easy to find. No need to overthink this one. Turnigy (from hobby king), SMC racing, etc, Check to see what your track sells, if they're within $10-20/pack, give them the sale. Ditto the rest of the stuff.
ESC - Hobbywing XR10 "Justock". No need for anything more, unless you know you'll run modified in the future.
Servo - 100oz/in torque or more, as fast as your budget allows. MUST have metal gears. These cars don't have servo savers anymore.
05-19-2019, 03:15 PM
#9119
Tech Rookie
I am also looking for some help with electronics, but the parameters are a bit different.
I assume that because I am new and our local track is running indoor off-track races that I will want to start running a stock configuration for the rc10b6.1 that is on order. I want to keep my options for electronics open to make easy changes to later run in other races without having to rip and replace all the electronics. There are so many options that I am completely lost after many hours or research and don’t want to make an expensive mistake.
I know from running my X-Maxx that hobbywing ESC's are great, but would need some help with selecting the right Hobbywing ESC. Davidka you mention that the HW XR10 "Justock" is good to start with but not if you want to run modified in the future. Do you have a recommendation if one want to run modified in the future but stock for now?
Regarding a good motor, I assume to run stock I will need to run a 17.5 motor. Again there are so many options out there. Reedy has multiple motors, so does hobbywing and many others. What do I need to look for? What do I need to stay away from? Any suggestions are welcome.
And last but certainly not least, any suggestions for a servo? I read the reply from Davindka above regarding the servo recommendation, but would appreciate one or more suggestions to help narrow things down a bit.
Many, many thanks from a very confused but ready to start racer
I assume that because I am new and our local track is running indoor off-track races that I will want to start running a stock configuration for the rc10b6.1 that is on order. I want to keep my options for electronics open to make easy changes to later run in other races without having to rip and replace all the electronics. There are so many options that I am completely lost after many hours or research and don’t want to make an expensive mistake.
I know from running my X-Maxx that hobbywing ESC's are great, but would need some help with selecting the right Hobbywing ESC. Davidka you mention that the HW XR10 "Justock" is good to start with but not if you want to run modified in the future. Do you have a recommendation if one want to run modified in the future but stock for now?
Regarding a good motor, I assume to run stock I will need to run a 17.5 motor. Again there are so many options out there. Reedy has multiple motors, so does hobbywing and many others. What do I need to look for? What do I need to stay away from? Any suggestions are welcome.
And last but certainly not least, any suggestions for a servo? I read the reply from Davindka above regarding the servo recommendation, but would appreciate one or more suggestions to help narrow things down a bit.
Many, many thanks from a very confused but ready to start racer
07-12-2019, 07:56 PM
#9120
I really miss my B6