try it. Its only $5.49. Which some people think it's expensive and doesnt do a thing.

Can it be used outside of stock ? I don’t run stock. It’s not really a thing where I race

I heard some people at the track worrying about how much they have to spend and they need better batteries and motors ect... then I watch them on the track and they cant make more than 2 laps with out crashing.
yes its expensive but money spent on the right things the first time and you wont have to waste more money upgraded like I did. I went thru 3 chargers before I got the right one and same with motors and batteries but I made sure I can get around the track with crashing before investing more $

There is a lot of little details in that setup and it relates to a very specific characteristic of the Schumacher Cactus rear tire.

When Richard Barton, the guy who pushed us UK guys towards the flat arms when running Cactus tires, first said to me that he'd found the car more consistent with the flat arms I was very sceptical, I mean high-grip = gull wings right?

Then I tried it and you know what, the car felt more consistent and I went faster, both over a single lap but more to the point I could dump several full lipos with a 6.5 on a tight indoor track with tricky and BIG jumps and features without even getting out of shape let alone crashing!

I then started to think about why this is and it is down to the properties of the Cactus rear tire.
The Cactus tire is a lot more resistant to starting rotation than a Minipin so initial steering is reduced and once the car does start to rotate it rotates more freely than a Minipin ..... SO we want more initial steering where gullwings give less/safer initial steering AND we want less mid-exit steering as the rear rotates freeer where gullwings generate a little more mid-exit steering.

Is Richard Barton a genius? No, he just did what he does and thought the problem through ..... doesn't hurt he's one hell of a driver too :lol:

When the car goes back outdoors on to astroturf next weekend it'll have the gullwings back on it as they suit the rear Minidart tire better :)

A mod motor would disintegrate it.

Asking for opinions. I’m looking for a buggy for my son. He’s only 7, drives fairly well, and does race the novice class. Normally he’ll drive the stock slash in novice. Originally. I was shopping for a used B5M. But now I’m wondering if I should just spend a little more and get either another B6D, or a B6. The pros of another B6D is parts can be used between both, and setups I can do the same to both cars. On the B6, I didn’t know if I should get a B6 just for me to experiment with. I e never driven a B6 (we run on a clay track). I do know there is a carpet track about an hour away that I want to try, but it won’t be but a couple times a year. So, what do you think? Two of the same, or a more diverse fleet?

After racing stock for years I just made the switch to mod. At the track I'm currently racing there was no way for me to compete with the other guys in stock without spending a boatload of cash. The top guys were making triples while I had to double single and I tried everything but still couldn't come close to making the jump, I was even running boost while the other we're in Blinky mode. Some of the guys at the track are running $200+ motors and every upgrade they can to reduce weight and rotating mass and my box stock b6 with a Trinity d3 17.5 was no match. I dropped in a used 8.5 and now have no issue keeping up with the other mod racers and it only cost me $35.

Make sense

I would definitely grab another b6d (plenty good used ones in for sale section).
you can run your b6d on carpet with a switch of tires it wont be as good as the b6 but lower it and change a few things (tires) and you will be fine. (not much differences between the 2 - lay down trans with you can switch over if you switch to full time carpet) keeping same model definitely will help in the long run with parts without keeping different stuff for other models and easier to fix cause youll know them in and out.

Yeah, get a b6d. You can get one for maybe 50 bucks more for a basic roller and it will serve you better in the long run

Thanks. Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I'm just a middle of the pack driver, and realistically, my driving is normally the biggest hindrance. Didn't know if I'd even notice the difference between the two, but thought it might be fun to experiment and play around with a B6. But, two B6D's, setup for me is going to be way easier.

I'm on the hunt. :sneaky: And that's all I "need": a basic roller. I have old-er electronics to throw in there that are more than antiquate for the Novice class.

You could also try a b6 if you’re on a high traction track. I like how they drive a lot better.

Thanks for this and the other responses, good discussion! AMain has Cactus tires. I'm going to try a set. As much for reported long wear (vs Prism by some accounts) as anything else. Interested to try the straight arms as well.

B6 + a ball diff (MIP Bi-metal is a good option) seems like the straightest/cheapest path to the most popular setup for higher grip dirt/clay.

Why a ball diff over a gear diff? I don’t do much dirt racing so I don’t know hardly anything about ball diffs