26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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12-13-2015, 10:12 AM
#991
12-13-2015, 12:42 PM
#994
I ran my 3.0 for the first time last night traction was abnormaly high last night for my local track. But coming from associated and kyosho t the 3.0 i really liked the buggy it done lots of stuff really good but running the kit setup i had a horriable on power push. I moved the batterey all the way foward, changed to black ae front springs and changed the front inner ballstuds to 1mm and still never got it totally fixed dont really know where to go next?
12-13-2015, 01:10 PM
#995
I thought about that after the race on my way home but it was a little to late then. Others have told me i should have tried the opposite and put mor limiters in the front shocks so im not sure what the answer is but i will keep searching. Thanks for the reply
12-13-2015, 02:59 PM
#997
12-13-2015, 03:00 PM
#998
yesterday was my first race with my 3.0. i have driven the original 22, and the 2.0 in both rm and mm versions. i was never comforatable with the 2.0mm the car was awesome in rm however.
this car is flat out awesome. i raced it at trackside in milw. and started with the setup given to me by jp richards, and i ran in 17.5 class.
i will say this, to anyone on the fence, this car is wonderful. i could drive the car hard without fear of the car doing something strange. i always drove the 2.0mm scared, and would make mistakes due to being to cautious. not with this car.
very good job frank and tlr.
this car is flat out awesome. i raced it at trackside in milw. and started with the setup given to me by jp richards, and i ran in 17.5 class.
i will say this, to anyone on the fence, this car is wonderful. i could drive the car hard without fear of the car doing something strange. i always drove the 2.0mm scared, and would make mistakes due to being to cautious. not with this car.
very good job frank and tlr.
12-13-2015, 06:22 PM
#999
so yes, you would want to try more limiters.
12-13-2015, 08:32 PM
#1000
I believe if you increase front droop so the front shocks are longer you would make the car push more on power as it would transfer more weight to the rear (exaggerated by moving the battery forward as there is more weight up front to transfer)
so yes, you would want to try more limiters.
so yes, you would want to try more limiters.
12-13-2015, 08:34 PM
#1001
Thats what i thought but was getting horrible on power push. Then some of the fast guys at the track came by and told me that i had too little droop, so i removed the limiters, had alot more droop and it helped!! I was so confused... Still am. I don't understand setups at all... Zilch. Its so complicated.
12-13-2015, 11:26 PM
#1002
That did cross my mind but coming out of 180s, the slightest input of power would result in going wide so that kind of power wouldn't result in a wheelie. Maybe I should go harder on the rear shocks to limit the weight transfer?
12-14-2015, 12:02 AM
#1003
Just checking in, seems that all is pretty much well, and no major outstanding questions. I will be out of the office testing all week, then I'll be out for Christmas week on vacation. I may check in periodically, but don't wait too long for a reply from me. One of the other fine gentlemen on here will get you sorted out 
12-14-2015, 12:10 AM
#1004
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Got my car out for the first time today, drives really good, moving the battery forward about a fingers length away from the waterfall was really the only adjustment i made. 
Running the car in 17.5, weight is at 1565, geared 32/72 with the schelle slipper.
Running the car in 17.5, weight is at 1565, geared 32/72 with the schelle slipper.
12-14-2015, 04:34 AM
#1005
I believe if you increase front droop so the front shocks are longer you would make the car push more on power as it would transfer more weight to the rear (exaggerated by moving the battery forward as there is more weight up front to transfer)
so yes, you would want to try more limiters.
so yes, you would want to try more limiters.