26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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12-12-2015, 07:55 PM
#976
For anyone running the new HV Spektrum s6270 low profile steering servo, i mounted it with NO spacers directly to the servo mounts in my 2.0 with the bellcrank steering so I think since the 3.0 is so similar in the front, mounting the steering servo should be the same. I did use the TLR aluminum servo arm and Exotek servo moints in my 2.0. Feel free to correct me if this does not work for anyone building their 3.0 with this servo. I will find out this week for sure during my build. I did buy a shorter servo wire for this servo since they just unplug and the receiver is right next door. I know alot of guys run lighter gauge wires for stock racing for weight. Anyone have any thoughts on running three 14 awg. motor wires for a 7.5 mod. motor in this buggy. I come from an old school back ground were we ran Nicads and brushed motors so ANY resistance hurt the run time so we ran big wire and heafty connectors. I see alot of guys today run big wire to the esc but much smaller wires to the motor for weight.
Last edited by Guch; 12-12-2015 at 08:36 PM.
12-12-2015, 09:02 PM
#977
All parts accounted for (so far, not finished yet). Just had 1.0's with the steering rack instead of .5's, which were in the bag with the 2.0's in the camber link bag.
12-12-2015, 09:12 PM
#978
I got mine built and tested today. The build went smooth. No real issues. No stripped screws. I did find some parts where the plastics were very tight. The steering rack where the bell cranks attach. I had to run an m3 tap about halfway through it. And my 4 gear transmission housing about burned up my power driver getting the screws in that. And the rear arms had a tiny bit of rub on the front hinge pin brace. A few seconds with some sand paper took care of that. Very easy and quick build. Even the suggested turnbuckle lengths were right on. I can't think of how many times I built a car to the recommended length and have it so far off its funny.
Anyway early this afternoon I went to the track with the intention of showing off a newly built 3.0 chassis and practising with my 2.0. After one pack in the 2.0 I decided to rip all the electronics out and put them in the 3.0. I didn't have a soldering iron or extra wire with me so the only place the esc would fit was on top of the battery. I also quickly discovered that the body would not fit. So I took my 2.0 body, mashed it on and taped it to the car. (Who said a 2.0 body wouldn't fit?) After a few Laos I started to get the hang of it. It was very easy to drive. Felt a little pushy at first. And I'm sure my electronics placement had a lot to do with it. But I felt I could put the car anywhere I wanted. We run on real untreated dirt and it can get very slick. I'm running this car in 17.5 and my fastest lap was a 20.4 and my fastest lap with my mod B5m was a 20.0. I was really impressed with how easy the car was to drive. I'm running 100% kit setup and if anybody wants to copy my electronics setup here you go.
Anyway early this afternoon I went to the track with the intention of showing off a newly built 3.0 chassis and practising with my 2.0. After one pack in the 2.0 I decided to rip all the electronics out and put them in the 3.0. I didn't have a soldering iron or extra wire with me so the only place the esc would fit was on top of the battery. I also quickly discovered that the body would not fit. So I took my 2.0 body, mashed it on and taped it to the car. (Who said a 2.0 body wouldn't fit?) After a few Laos I started to get the hang of it. It was very easy to drive. Felt a little pushy at first. And I'm sure my electronics placement had a lot to do with it. But I felt I could put the car anywhere I wanted. We run on real untreated dirt and it can get very slick. I'm running this car in 17.5 and my fastest lap was a 20.4 and my fastest lap with my mod B5m was a 20.0. I was really impressed with how easy the car was to drive. I'm running 100% kit setup and if anybody wants to copy my electronics setup here you go.
12-12-2015, 09:42 PM
#979
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
Thanks for the heads up. I will double check my build this week. By saying swiitched do you mean you got .5 camber shims? So in the end you just had to switch them and all parts were accounted for?
For anyone running the new HV Spektrum s6270 low profile steering servo, i mounted it with NO spacers directly to the servo mounts in my 2.0 with the bellcrank steering so I think since the 3.0 is so similar in the front, mounting the steering servo should be the same. I did use the TLR aluminum servo arm and Exotek servo moints in my 2.0. Feel free to correct me if this does not work for anyone building their 3.0 with this servo. I will find out this week for sure during my build. I did buy a shorter servo wire for this servo since they just unplug and the receiver is right next door. I know alot of guys run lighter gauge wires for stock racing for weight. Anyone have any thoughts on running three 14 awg. motor wires for a 7.5 mod. motor in this buggy. I come from an old school back ground were we ran Nicads and brushed motors so ANY resistance hurt the run time so we ran big wire and heafty connectors. I see alot of guys today run big wire to the esc but much smaller wires to the motor for weight.
For anyone running the new HV Spektrum s6270 low profile steering servo, i mounted it with NO spacers directly to the servo mounts in my 2.0 with the bellcrank steering so I think since the 3.0 is so similar in the front, mounting the steering servo should be the same. I did use the TLR aluminum servo arm and Exotek servo moints in my 2.0. Feel free to correct me if this does not work for anyone building their 3.0 with this servo. I will find out this week for sure during my build. I did buy a shorter servo wire for this servo since they just unplug and the receiver is right next door. I know alot of guys run lighter gauge wires for stock racing for weight. Anyone have any thoughts on running three 14 awg. motor wires for a 7.5 mod. motor in this buggy. I come from an old school back ground were we ran Nicads and brushed motors so ANY resistance hurt the run time so we ran big wire and heafty connectors. I see alot of guys today run big wire to the esc but much smaller wires to the motor for weight.
12-12-2015, 09:52 PM
#980
Just finished the build today which went flawless. I toke it out for the first practice run. OMG!!!! This buggy is awesome. My first love is my wife... I just found my second. I could hammer it whenever i wanted. Jumped and turned great.
For your guys running stock. The setup is straight from the manual with the execption i used 32.5 oil in the front shocks. Two upgrades; alum servo horn and carbon front shock tower.
Clay indoor track... medium to high bite
Specs.
17.5 Kill Shot
1258 savox servo
Orion 4500 shorty battery (removed the rear spacer on the battery hold down and push the battery all the way back)
Hobbywing Just Stock esc
Spektrum SR3100 reciever
Dirt Webs front and rear (clay compound)
Weight was 1540. Would like to shave a little off that.
Would like to thank Frank and the TLR team for a great product. Frank, i appreciate you being so active on this forum...thanks. For those AE boys that's coming over.... you won't go back.
For your guys running stock. The setup is straight from the manual with the execption i used 32.5 oil in the front shocks. Two upgrades; alum servo horn and carbon front shock tower.
Clay indoor track... medium to high bite
Specs.
17.5 Kill Shot
1258 savox servo
Orion 4500 shorty battery (removed the rear spacer on the battery hold down and push the battery all the way back)
Hobbywing Just Stock esc
Spektrum SR3100 reciever
Dirt Webs front and rear (clay compound)
Weight was 1540. Would like to shave a little off that.
Would like to thank Frank and the TLR team for a great product. Frank, i appreciate you being so active on this forum...thanks. For those AE boys that's coming over.... you won't go back.
12-12-2015, 11:15 PM
#981
Greener74,
What was your fastest lap on your 2.0? Since you ran it back to back with your 2.0, what were the pros and cons? I'm looking for an excuse not to burn a hole in my pocket with the 3.0, the US currency is so strong at the moment. Argghhhh!!!
What was your fastest lap on your 2.0? Since you ran it back to back with your 2.0, what were the pros and cons? I'm looking for an excuse not to burn a hole in my pocket with the 3.0, the US currency is so strong at the moment. Argghhhh!!!
12-13-2015, 04:55 AM
#982
12-13-2015, 06:48 AM
#983
I finally got my first run/race in on my new car. I love it. Big thanks to Mike Sontag (AMS raceway owner) for some setup tips. Overall the car just felt a little more linear and predictable then my 2.0
12-13-2015, 07:01 AM
#984
I bought a used 2.0 about a week before the 3.0 came out. And I've been tuning on it for about 3 week . I was getting mid 21`s. 21.5/21.4 we have a few very slippery sections where our dirt is different and I was able to handle those sections without any problems. And we have a quick S turn into a double. 17.5 cars usually struggle to clear it. And you have to come through the S very smooth or you don't make it. I was so fast through that section that I was actually landing about 3 feet past the landing.
12-13-2015, 07:10 AM
#985
Here it is with some dirt on it.
12-13-2015, 07:11 AM
#986
12-13-2015, 07:15 AM
#987
Does anybody know if these front wheels are the correct offset for the 3.0?
12-13-2015, 08:39 AM
#988
I bought a used 2.0 about a week before the 3.0 came out. And I've been tuning on it for about 3 week . I was getting mid 21`s. 21.5/21.4 we have a few very slippery sections where our dirt is different and I was able to handle those sections without any problems. And we have a quick S turn into a double. 17.5 cars usually struggle to clear it. And you have to come through the S very smooth or you don't make it. I was so fast through that section that I was actually landing about 3 feet past the landing.
12-13-2015, 09:59 AM
#989
Does anybody know if these front wheels are the correct offset for the 3.0?
12-13-2015, 09:59 AM
#990
I ran my 3.0 for the first time last night traction was abnormaly high last night for my local track. But coming from associated and kyosho t the 3.0 i really liked the buggy it done lots of stuff really good but running the kit setup i had a horriable on power push. I moved the batterey all the way foward, changed to black ae front springs and changed the front inner ballstuds to 1mm and still never got it totally fixed dont really know where to go next?