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TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!

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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-20-2017, 07:53 AM
  #4696  
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Hello everyone, I got a few questions
First of all: is the 22 3.0 still worth to get? I could get one off eBay in a decent condition for around 260 € including ESC, motor and quite a few spare parts. Would that be a good deal?
Second thing: I mostly run 1/8 electric buggy and would drive the 22 just in the "off-season" (thanks to the german weather...) and want something different from the 4 WD of my Mugen. Some guys at my local track had a 2 WD and now they say it's bad and switched to a 4 WD 1/10 buggy. Is 2 WD really that bad and hard to handle as they say? I actually can't believe it and I'm somehow the type of guy who can drive with whatever you give me Don't want to sound conceited, it's just what I experienced since I started racing this year.
Oh and also: the 22 3.0 I found has a Sky RC Toro combo (barely heard of it here in Germany), is it any good?

Would be nice if someone could answer me
Kind regards from Germany,
Jonathan
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by joNathanW
Hello everyone, I got a few questions
First of all: is the 22 3.0 still worth to get? I could get one off eBay in a decent condition for around 260 € including ESC, motor and quite a few spare parts. Would that be a good deal?
Second thing: I mostly run 1/8 electric buggy and would drive the 22 just in the "off-season" (thanks to the german weather...) and want something different from the 4 WD of my Mugen. Some guys at my local track had a 2 WD and now they say it's bad and switched to a 4 WD 1/10 buggy. Is 2 WD really that bad and hard to handle as they say? I actually can't believe it and I'm somehow the type of guy who can drive with whatever you give me Don't want to sound conceited, it's just what I experienced since I started racing this year.
Oh and also: the 22 3.0 I found has a Sky RC Toro combo (barely heard of it here in Germany), is it any good?

Would be nice if someone could answer me
Kind regards from Germany,
Jonathan
What type of surface are you running on? Large or small/tight/twisty track? Will you be running mod or stock 17.5?

If running carpet or similar high traction, does the 3.0 you’re looking at already include laydown transmission, gear diff, sway bars, adjustability to raise diff/axles, mount rear shocks in front of tower/rear arms?

If running stock on dirt/clay, does it come with lighter pieces like slipper eliminator, lighter diff and axles?

3.0 is still a competitive car but may need more pieces to be competitive on certain surfaces or types of tracks. That being the case, you’ll want to compare the cost of buying the used 3.0 as equipped against the standard 4.0 kit versus the 4.0 spec racer.
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Old 12-20-2017, 12:40 PM
  #4698  
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The surface is going to be carpet and the track is kinda small. The motor is a 7.5T one afaik. The seller was racing on carpet as well so I guess the setup is made for that kind of surface already.
Well the 22 4.0 is around 350 € here in Germany (for the kit alone) and I don't want to spend that much money for a car that I'm going to race for like 2-3 months, so I want to keep the costs as low as possible
1/8 is still going to be my main class and the Losi would be my secondary "off-season-fun-car".

Thanks for your quick reply!
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Old 12-20-2017, 03:46 PM
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Sounds to me you have answered your own question and really your doing what with this car,


Originally Posted by joNathanW
"off-season-fun-car".
So in my opinion any car you get will satisfy that off-season need, so granted it may not have the latest greatest parts on it, it's not your primary vehicle of choice, so take it and go have some FUN with it, as 2wd will make you a better driver, so you might want to rethink the motor
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Old 12-21-2017, 04:06 AM
  #4700  
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Okay, thanks
What exactly do you mean with the motor, should I take a less powerfull one? I only started driving in January this year and I barely know anything about the 1/10 motors.
Thanks for your help!
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Old 12-21-2017, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by joNathanW
Okay, thanks
What exactly do you mean with the motor, should I take a less powerfull one? I only started driving in January this year and I barely know anything about the 1/10 motors.
Thanks for your help!
We run a small carpet track with jumps 40x80 or so and with the 1/10 2wd buggies running 17.5 motors we are within 1 second of the 1/10 4x4 buggies running 6.5-13.5 motors, and I seem to like the power that a 10.5 motor will put out, but have found that I enjoy running the 17.5 buggy class as it teaches me more throttle control, and yes I run more than just that one class as I run the 4x4 buggy and pro2 classes, but feel that stock buggy by far is the best class.
So I would suggest a few, either 17.5, 13.5, or even a 10.5, but you will find that those will be plenty fast for your liking, plus less broken parts
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Old 12-27-2017, 07:31 AM
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Does anyone know if there is an aluminum caster block available, either from TLR or aftermarket? I've stripped the ballstud out of my 3rd one last week, and am looking for a better way to fix this. TLR part TLR234049.
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Old 12-27-2017, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by kaistas
Does anyone know if there is an aluminum caster block available, either from TLR or aftermarket? I've stripped the ballstud out of my 3rd one last week, and am looking for a better way to fix this. TLR part TLR234049.
I know they had some for the older car the 1.0 & 2.0 but did not have them set up for the VLA arms, so are you just pulling them out of the plastic or is this after a big hit, also have you tried longer ball studs as I had that happen and realized that it was short threads
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Troubles Dad
I know they had some for the older car the 1.0 & 2.0 but did not have them set up for the VLA arms, so are you just pulling them out of the plastic or is this after a big hit, also have you tried longer ball studs as I had that happen and realized that it was short threads
I've been using the length that TLR had in their manual, but it does look like there's room for longer ones. Maybe I'll give that a shot.
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Old 12-31-2017, 04:08 PM
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Will the 22 4.0 front spindles work on the 3.0 and do I also need the 4.0 caster block? 0° or 5° caster block?
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Old 12-31-2017, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RsA89
Will the 22 4.0 front spindles work on the 3.0 and do I also need the 4.0 caster block? 0° or 5° caster block?
Yes the spindles will work with no other parts needed.
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Old 01-07-2018, 02:32 AM
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I just bought a 22 3.0 and I'm planning on buying the Exotek aluminum laydown tranny for it,does anyone know if I'll be able to mount the rear shocks on the front of the arms withh this setup?
I was thinking of using the X Factory infinity kit,unless there are TLR parts that I could use that would move the shocks to the front of the arms?
Thanks!
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by FasterLouder
I just bought a 22 3.0 and I'm planning on buying the Exotek aluminum laydown tranny for it,does anyone know if I'll be able to mount the rear shocks on the front of the arms withh this setup?
I was thinking of using the X Factory infinity kit,unless there are TLR parts that I could use that would move the shocks to the front of the arms?
Thanks!
Some people use the 4.0 arms and then a long screw with spacers or the x factory conversion kit to move the shocks to the front.
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Old 01-07-2018, 11:11 AM
  #4709  
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Hi Everyone. I just got a new in the box 22 3.0 , ( New compared to my 1.0).
When i run offroad its on a clay track with medium to high traction. Dirtwebs and positrons work good there. The kit comes with a stand up 3 and 4 gear transmission case , Is there any good reason to use the 4 gear case?
So Im a onroad guy mainly for the last ten years So for Me easy to drive would be better then the fastest off the line. A car that would have rear traction is I guess more important then the fastest acceleration.
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Old 01-07-2018, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Lone Drifter
Hi Everyone. I just got a new in the box 22 3.0 , ( New compared to my 1.0).
When i run offroad its on a clay track with medium to high traction. Dirtwebs and positrons work good there. The kit comes with a stand up 3 and 4 gear transmission case , Is there any good reason to use the 4 gear case?
So Im a onroad guy mainly for the last ten years So for Me easy to drive would be better then the fastest off the line. A car that would have rear traction is I guess more important then the fastest acceleration.
What I found with my 3.0 car was on a variety of tracks it seemed to struggle with the 3 gear stand up transmission, as the car was middle of pack at best, then asked a member here and he said to go with the 4 gear, and the car went from mid pack to the front, not tons of forward traction, but enough to see the leader and to keep pace, the only thing I did not like was had to change the way the wires where routed as the motor is turned around, but to actually be in the race instead of lap traffic was the best for the car, as my set up stayed the same, just installed the 4 gear 😀
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