26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
|
04-30-2016, 07:25 AM
#2701
Would anyone who has done the exo laydown conversion be willing to send me your drill template?
04-30-2016, 07:41 AM
#2702
With transmission configuration being a focal point lately, has anybody explored a stock-specific 2-gear transmission? Seems like it might be possible with the small spur gears we're running.
04-30-2016, 12:26 PM
#2703
I doubt if a belt drive is the solution because of hysteresis losses in the belt. Maybe chain drive like the old Dominator or whatever it was oval car, that ran pretty free? Seems like a long shot, just trying to think of any possibility.
04-30-2016, 02:06 PM
#2704
I've tried laying out a 2 gear setup a couple times, couldn't figure out a way to make it work with useable gearing. Spur had to be small enough to miss the out drive/axle, which then took too large of a pinion to reach. If someone can work it out I'd sure like to see it.
I doubt if a belt drive is the solution because of hysteresis losses in the belt. Maybe chain drive like the old Dominator or whatever it was oval car, that ran pretty free? Seems like a long shot, just trying to think of any possibility.
I doubt if a belt drive is the solution because of hysteresis losses in the belt. Maybe chain drive like the old Dominator or whatever it was oval car, that ran pretty free? Seems like a long shot, just trying to think of any possibility.
Belt has extremely low loss under load but the distance needed between pulleys and diff pulley diameter causes another set of compromises. I've always wondered how well a Schumacher KF could be made to work.
04-30-2016, 05:58 PM
#2705
Tech Adept
hey frank, do you know when we will see the TLR334037 +3 rear hubs that are in the laydown kit available for purchase separately? i am building mine over time and would like to use them with my exotek transmission
04-30-2016, 09:28 PM
#2709
Tech Adept
No, no, and no
The 3.0 wheels are just like the 2.0 wheels except for that they have 12mm hexes. Other manufacturers wheels will fit but the offset will be wrong and will make the car too wide on the front end
The 3.0 wheels are just like the 2.0 wheels except for that they have 12mm hexes. Other manufacturers wheels will fit but the offset will be wrong and will make the car too wide on the front end
05-01-2016, 08:21 PM
#2710
Not the same as TLR330007.
I got my laydown conversion yesterday and installed it, and ran it last night on the turf. Its a very nice kit, everything went together smoothly. The only issue i had was the screws to hold the battery strap were longer than what was listed in the instructions. The sheet said 6mm and my kit had 10mm screws so they stick out and are bit ugly but i will dremel them down to the correct height.
The car ran good with the little practice time that I got and i made some minor changes throughout the night. Im very happy with this kit!
The car ran good with the little practice time that I got and i made some minor changes throughout the night. Im very happy with this kit!
05-01-2016, 10:08 PM
#2711
Well, I won one of these bad boys at a raffle this weekend. So it looks like I have some work reading this entire thread! I have been racing B5M's for last 2 years. I am really impressed with how this buggy looks on the track! Ya have to admit that body just looks sick! Looks like I will have to replace my tire fleet though as the offsets are way different, if there could only be an industry standard on wheel offsets it would make this a LOT easier! But that's neither here nor there. *subscribed*!
05-01-2016, 10:44 PM
#2712
Its just the front. U can still use other fronts but might be too wide legally. Rears same unless you got some swallow wheels on the outside. Then ive used a cone washer to make up the gap for the nut. I have way too many rear tires to just not use them for this car.
05-02-2016, 01:55 AM
#2714
Hi everybody I'm picking up a 3.0 and was wondering what is good to do setup wise right out of the box for OCRC. For example I've seen the +1mm on rear axle and stuff like that I just wanted to know what stuff is a "requirement".... Thank you👍🏼
05-02-2016, 04:16 AM
#2715
I'm loving this new buggy and I have only raced it twice on our local turf track. I'm getting ready to put an indoor clay setup on it and get a second kit to build a lay-down car for turf this winter. I love the look of the new body and a joy to paint (much easier than the 2.0 cab fwd bodies 
)
)