Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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#1381
And you must be a much better driver than all of us on the team. For the past 2 years with 20-30 prototypes and pre-production cars running full time on the track we've not broken a single hinge pin holder but tons of suspension arms, uprights, front chassis upper and lower parts, bent hinge pins and broken hinge pin inserts.
#1382
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
used a smaller bit.. then used a 9.87 drill bit.. and its a tight fit..
4 AE slipper pads.. 2 on one side.. then 2 on the other side.. got rid of the middle Xray plate for this.
#1383
As a response to the team not doing real world testing and missing feedback from real use.
We've broken tons of parts and never have it been a hinge pin holder that broke.
But we have seen several break after screws coming loose and applying stress to the part over time.
Hence the advice to use Loctite on the screws to keep it from happening.
Bent
We've broken tons of parts and never have it been a hinge pin holder that broke.
But we have seen several break after screws coming loose and applying stress to the part over time.
Hence the advice to use Loctite on the screws to keep it from happening.
Bent
#1384
So I have a trivial question as I wait for the 19th; Has anyone tried dying the wheels that come with the kit? Back in the day the old nylon wheels took to clothing dye really well, but not sure what plastic is used these days.
Also, anyone know what springs the dirt version will come with? I usually like to prepare with a set softer and firmer than stock before I hit the track.
Also, anyone know what springs the dirt version will come with? I usually like to prepare with a set softer and firmer than stock before I hit the track.
#1385
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
here is something i would like to add to all this in the forum..
Bent is not Xray.. his daughter is sponsored by Xray.. he is support.. like.. setup.. tips.. tricks.. stuff like that.. basically a middle man.. its not his fault the car has weak spots.. they cant test for everything.. attacking him does nothing.. except put him on the defensive..
i understand everyones frustrations.. but.. to attack one person for it.. because he is vocal support on the forums.. or the groups.. is not a good idea.. its rare that there is this kind of support #1, and #2, he could just not reply.. or not support.. and not say anything..
i mean.. if the parts are faulty.. im sure it has been brought up to the correct people.. but Bent isnt employed by Xray.. he is on the Factory Team.. he has input.. and thats it. he can give ideas.. and suggestions.. its the design teams final say..
just like the slipper eliminator.. he found out quickly how many US drivers use a smaller spur.. and stock motors.. which.. is not the norm to him.. so.. he took it to Xray.. as an idea.. thats all he can do..
blasting him on forums.. for supporting a product he believes in.. and uses.. is in my mind.. useless..
you can only complain so many times.. let it be.. im sure he has mentioned it to Xray.. but lets get over this.. and move on.. Bent has help many people on this thread.. and the groups.. and his knowledge is helpful.. may not be for everyone.. but.. cmon..
Bent is not Xray.. his daughter is sponsored by Xray.. he is support.. like.. setup.. tips.. tricks.. stuff like that.. basically a middle man.. its not his fault the car has weak spots.. they cant test for everything.. attacking him does nothing.. except put him on the defensive..
i understand everyones frustrations.. but.. to attack one person for it.. because he is vocal support on the forums.. or the groups.. is not a good idea.. its rare that there is this kind of support #1, and #2, he could just not reply.. or not support.. and not say anything..
i mean.. if the parts are faulty.. im sure it has been brought up to the correct people.. but Bent isnt employed by Xray.. he is on the Factory Team.. he has input.. and thats it. he can give ideas.. and suggestions.. its the design teams final say..
just like the slipper eliminator.. he found out quickly how many US drivers use a smaller spur.. and stock motors.. which.. is not the norm to him.. so.. he took it to Xray.. as an idea.. thats all he can do..
blasting him on forums.. for supporting a product he believes in.. and uses.. is in my mind.. useless..
you can only complain so many times.. let it be.. im sure he has mentioned it to Xray.. but lets get over this.. and move on.. Bent has help many people on this thread.. and the groups.. and his knowledge is helpful.. may not be for everyone.. but.. cmon..
#1386
So I have a trivial question as I wait for the 19th; Has anyone tried dying the wheels that come with the kit? Back in the day the old nylon wheels took to clothing dye really well, but not sure what plastic is used these days.
Also, anyone know what springs the dirt version will come with? I usually like to prepare with a set softer and firmer than stock before I hit the track.
Also, anyone know what springs the dirt version will come with? I usually like to prepare with a set softer and firmer than stock before I hit the track.
Bent
#1387
Thanks Bent. Happen to have a spring chart handy? I've been looking for one, but only finding things in "C" ratings. Sorry for all the newb questions, trying to update my old timey knowledge.
#1389
#1393
Tech Elite
iTrader: (45)
It's a plausible theory that a loose screw can cause the issue. However, it would need to be scenario where only one screw was loose, and the other tight. The concept is the loose screw extends past the chassis and pushes up on the hanger whenever the chassis slaps. That would turn the hanger into a class 1 lever, with the fulcrum (I totally dig that I get to use that word twice on this thread) being the location where the other tight screw fastens the hanger to the chassis.
On the opposite side of the tight screw a downward force would be applied, with greater force than that being pushed up (because of the lever), and would cause the break there at the point where the tight screw secures the hanger to the chassis.
So in theory the side opposite the loose screw side should break. I even drew a picture. =)
If both are loose, it would simply cause the hanger to push up with downward force that the hanger is designed to support (as applied from downward force of the car as it lands, applied to the carrier via the hinge pin).
Of course this doesn't take into consideration the screw heads digging into the carpet or dirt and jamming the screw backwards/hanger forward. But you'd have to have a screw sticking pretty far out, and have a bent screw with carpet fibers strung/dirt embedded into it.
I'd personally chalk this up to needing more material on the hanger, or perhaps a high impact from a previous crash that cracked it unknowingly (which more material would probably prevent).
All that said, I'm just bored at work and still waiting for my Dirt Edition car. Excuse my mind numbing interpretation of physics.
On the opposite side of the tight screw a downward force would be applied, with greater force than that being pushed up (because of the lever), and would cause the break there at the point where the tight screw secures the hanger to the chassis.
So in theory the side opposite the loose screw side should break. I even drew a picture. =)
If both are loose, it would simply cause the hanger to push up with downward force that the hanger is designed to support (as applied from downward force of the car as it lands, applied to the carrier via the hinge pin).
Of course this doesn't take into consideration the screw heads digging into the carpet or dirt and jamming the screw backwards/hanger forward. But you'd have to have a screw sticking pretty far out, and have a bent screw with carpet fibers strung/dirt embedded into it.
I'd personally chalk this up to needing more material on the hanger, or perhaps a high impact from a previous crash that cracked it unknowingly (which more material would probably prevent).
All that said, I'm just bored at work and still waiting for my Dirt Edition car. Excuse my mind numbing interpretation of physics.
#1394
Tech Elite
iTrader: (45)
I've measured my line of Serpent and Associated springs, and have been borrowing various springs from Kyo and TLR guys at the track to measure those. I don't know how accurate the scale is in terms of how the N/CM values might line up with more expensive tools, but what it does is give me a good chart of how each spring stacks up against each other. I'll share that when I'm done as well. The PetitRC data seems to have a mix of actual/measured spring rates mixed in with manufacturer claims of what the spring rate should be. That isn't always accurate. It's always nice to know what a comparable spring rate is compared to another brand. Serpent guys run Serpent or AE, the AE and TLR guys always seem to toss on Kyosho springs. I like to stick with the cheaper AE/TLR springs, so that's why I started my little project (so I emulate a setup easier).
XRAY drivers seems to stick with XRAY, which I find comforting.
#1395
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
It's a plausible theory that a loose screw can cause the issue. However, it would need to be scenario where only one screw was loose, and the other tight. The concept is the loose screw extends past the chassis and pushes up on the hanger whenever the chassis slaps. That would turn the hanger into a class 1 lever, with the fulcrum (I totally dig that I get to use that word twice on this thread) being the location where the other tight screw fastens the hanger to the chassis.
On the opposite side of the tight screw a downward force would be applied, with greater force than that being pushed up (because of the lever), and would cause the break there at the point where the tight screw secures the hanger to the chassis.
So in theory the side opposite the loose screw side should break. I even drew a picture. =)
If both are loose, it would simply cause the hanger to push up with downward force that the hanger is designed to support (as applied from downward force of the car as it lands, applied to the carrier via the hinge pin).
Of course this doesn't take into consideration the screw heads digging into the carpet or dirt and jamming the screw backwards/hanger forward. But you'd have to have a screw sticking pretty far out, and have a bent screw with carpet fibers strung/dirt embedded into it.
I'd personally chalk this up to needing more material on the hanger, or perhaps a high impact from a previous crash that cracked it unknowingly (which more material would probably prevent).
All that said, I'm just bored at work and still waiting for my Dirt Edition car. Excuse my mind numbing interpretation of physics.
On the opposite side of the tight screw a downward force would be applied, with greater force than that being pushed up (because of the lever), and would cause the break there at the point where the tight screw secures the hanger to the chassis.
So in theory the side opposite the loose screw side should break. I even drew a picture. =)
If both are loose, it would simply cause the hanger to push up with downward force that the hanger is designed to support (as applied from downward force of the car as it lands, applied to the carrier via the hinge pin).
Of course this doesn't take into consideration the screw heads digging into the carpet or dirt and jamming the screw backwards/hanger forward. But you'd have to have a screw sticking pretty far out, and have a bent screw with carpet fibers strung/dirt embedded into it.
I'd personally chalk this up to needing more material on the hanger, or perhaps a high impact from a previous crash that cracked it unknowingly (which more material would probably prevent).
All that said, I'm just bored at work and still waiting for my Dirt Edition car. Excuse my mind numbing interpretation of physics.