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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-10-2016, 06:29 AM
  #1366  
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Originally Posted by BentKa
Jerk move ? All I did was post a similar image to what you posted showing our screw with clear Loctite residue. I find it odd that when you post your picture it's perfectly fine and when I remove one from our XB2 to show it's described as a jerk move

And you must be a much better driver than all of us on the team. For the past 2 years with 20-30 prototypes and pre-production cars running full time on the track we've not broken a single hinge pin holder but tons of suspension arms, uprights, front chassis upper and lower parts, bent hinge pins and broken hinge pin inserts.

And we still break parts on the production cars we are running now



Xray representatives watch both the threads on here and the groups on Facebook.



Bent
Well the team drivers missed the faulty offset rr hanger on the xb4 and denied it for awhile about it being an issue. The faster Xray makes this right for the customers who spent $350 on a car with a weak part, the better off Xray will look on this issue.

Look how your insulting me and your being "arrogant" again Bent. Of course I'm not faster then team drivers. Just because the team members haven't had it happen doesn't mean the issue doesn't exist. I am a creditable customer of Xray and I have had an issue with a weak part. Clearly others are also saying the exact same thing and more will follow.
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:07 AM
  #1367  
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Originally Posted by suby723
Conspiracy!
Originally Posted by suby723
Well the team drivers missed the faulty offset rr hanger on the xb4 and denied it for awhile about it being an issue. The faster Xray makes this right for the customers who spent $350 on a car with a weak part, the better off Xray will look on this issue.

Look how your insulting me and your being "arrogant" again Bent. Of course I'm not faster then team drivers. Just because the team members haven't had it happen doesn't mean the issue doesn't exist. I am a creditable customer of Xray and I have had an issue with a weak part. Clearly others are also saying the exact same thing and more will follow.

I like how you portray me to be insulting when I just use your own line of arguments.

All I did on Facebook was post a similar picture to what you did showing how our part looked like.

When you posted it was okay, but when I did it was a "jerk move".

And you're the one telling me you've never ever broken a part ever.......apart from just this one which broke while gently strolling around. So it obviously must be a defect since you never ever break parts.

From your Facebook profile you do look like a grown man

Bent
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:14 AM
  #1368  
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XB2 Graphite Extensions for Steering Block 2.5mm
• Steering block graphite extensions
• L or R sides
• Easy Ackermann adjustment
• Works on all surfaces and track conditions
• 3 different options for fine tuning
Steering block graphite extension, works on either left or right side. Allows for easy Ackermann position adjustment for fine-tuning on all surfaces and track conditions. 0-slot extension gives the most aggressive steering, recommended for very technical, small tracks. 2-slot extension turns outside wheels less, easier to drive, makes the car less aggressive and increases cornering speed. 1-slot extension gives racing characteristics between 2 & 0 slots: slightly more steering then 2 slot, turns outside wheel more. On high-grip this can produce a stopping in corners. Set of 2.
#322290 Graphite Extension for Steering Block 2.5mm - 2 Slots (2) - standard
#322291 Graphite Extension for Steering Block 2.5mm - 1 Slot (2)
#322292 Graphite Extension for Steering Block 2.5mm - 0 Slots (2)

http://bit.ly/1klNo0n


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Old 02-10-2016, 07:23 AM
  #1369  
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Originally Posted by BentKa
Bent
Bent, do you tune bump steer when changing the carbon akerman parts?
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:29 AM
  #1370  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
Bent, do you tune bump steer when changing the carbon akerman parts?
Yes we usually change the number of shims as well.

But this is very track dependent.

If the grip is high the steering can get very aggressive with the optional blocks.

Bent
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:31 AM
  #1371  
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Originally Posted by BentKa
Yes we usually change the number of shims as well.

But this is very track dependent.

If the grip is high the steering can get very aggressive with the optional blocks.

Bent
Excellent, sounds like exactly what I want. Thanks.
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Old 02-10-2016, 07:36 AM
  #1372  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
Excellent, sounds like exactly what I want. Thanks.
NP

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Old 02-10-2016, 08:31 AM
  #1373  
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Originally Posted by yodace
Sorry if this was covered before but to run the ae wheels. I need the 7mm hex front and 9mm
you can use the stock rear hex with 1.5mm shims in the rim. for the rear.. i ordered the avid hex shim kit.. or.. order the +3.75 hex..

on the front.. you have to use the -.75 hex..

#365354 -0.75mm (2pcs) = 3.8mm thick, for AE/Avid/PL front wheels

#365359 +3.75mm (5 stripe)(2pcs) = 8.4mm for AE/Avid/PL rear wheels
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Old 02-10-2016, 08:40 AM
  #1374  
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112
you can use the stock rear hex with 1.5mm shims in the rim. for the rear.. i ordered the avid hex shim kit.. or.. order the +3.75 hex..

on the front.. you have to use the -.75 hex..

#365354 -0.75mm (2pcs) = 3.8mm thick, for AE/Avid/PL front wheels

#365359 +3.75mm (5 stripe)(2pcs) = 8.4mm for AE/Avid/PL rear wheels
What is the targeted track width front and rear that you are using to come up with the correct wheel hexes?
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:04 AM
  #1375  
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Originally Posted by rraden
What is the targeted track width front and rear that you are using to come up with the correct wheel hexes?
i came up with the same numbers just by measuring the offset of the wheels.

no idea what the actual width of the car is but this would make it the same width with as the stock 12mm xray wheels.
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:33 AM
  #1376  
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Originally Posted by ooberman
i came up with the same numbers just by measuring the offset of the wheels.

no idea what the actual width of the car is but this would make it the same width with as the stock 12mm xray wheels.
i just measured the wheel offset differences between stock wheels and AE wheels.. for stock offset..
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:54 AM
  #1377  
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For those of you running associated spur gears, how do you achieve it? Picture would be nice
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:17 AM
  #1378  
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I'm going to try the ae slipper today if ups stops messing up my shipment. It's supposed to be that you enlarge the hole a bit and then use the ae slipper pads on the gear and 1 xray slipper on the outside like it normally is.
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:35 AM
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Qwerty
You will see

Last edited by onekiwi; 02-10-2016 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:50 AM
  #1380  
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Originally Posted by onekiwi
Getting kicked from 2 xray FB groups for questioning Bent:

Ahh Bent your such an idiot, someone disagrees with you so you cry about it and kick them.
People get sick of your constant plugging of your sponsors where it was suppose to be a buggy thread not advertising for you, but maybe that was the whole plan
Claiming you get nothing for those FB pages
You clean up threads so it makes you look good.
You attack people because they took up a potential problem with the xb2 like several have done to enlighten others then you practically call them an idiot and they don't know what they are doing.

I can't really say that im upset kinda relieved as I won't be getting that deja vu feeling when someone asks a question and you reply with the same stuff again and again: me me me our setup works the best check out the video blah blah blah



Quote:
And just to be clear. I am in no way paid by or employed by Xray. I'm merely using my own free time on here trying to help out the Xray owners. By no means are you forced to follow my advice in any way

where do you guys get your stuff from??
Trying to help out.. please you belittle others for trying different things
Take your advice: thats all every other post is no one can get a word in.
Aaaaahhhhh........Simon.......still sore after 3 years of getting beaten by a girl

Yep.....blocked you from the FB groups.

Your negative posts and slander on Xray.....copying Yokomo etc etc.....got really old in the end.

Never a positive post about a brand you don't even own.......thanks for all the "help"

Why you even follow and post in the Xray groups when you hate the brand so much I will never get.

Won't be missed

Bent
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