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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 07-23-2020, 08:49 PM
  #6406  
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After a dumb mistake, I ended up giving it one more round on clay. New layout is definitely a challenge for me. I’m not used to large jumps( relative to the track size). It should get worn down a bit with their event this weekend.


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Old 08-08-2020, 12:11 PM
  #6407  
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I'm sure somewhere in these 428 pages lies the answer to my question. Perhaps somebody can save me lots of reading. If I want to run the same wheels on Associated B6.1D, Yokomo DTM 2 and Xray XB2D which wheels would require the least amount of changing the hexes that come with the cars. My hunch is start with Associated wheels and use OEM hexes for Associated and Yokomo and a change the hexes on the Xray. Anyone know for sure? Thanks in advance
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Old 08-21-2020, 09:19 AM
  #6408  
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Folks, I am into 8th scale. I lost my Hudy snap ring pliers during my relocation to the US. I cant seem to find the Hudy one in stock. I assumed this thread will have information since it has imp use with this kit. What pliers do you guy use, like to get a compact one similar to Hudy?
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Old 08-27-2020, 11:30 PM
  #6409  
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As I stated in a previous post I would like to know if I can use the AE offset buggy wheels that I already have on an XB2D '20 buggy. Here is a sketch I made after measuring the wheels since my previous post on this subject

After doing a little math it seems to me that using Associated wheels on my Xray buggy will result in the following measurements from outside to outside of wheels:
Rear +2 mm
Front +4 mm
Does anyone think a driver of average skills running on loose dirt outdoors or high-traction clay indoors would notice that difference? Enough to buy new hexes for the Xray?
Not worried if the width is exactly legal as I just run open practice sessions. Will the 1.5 mm wider Associated front wheels be an issue? Thanks in advance to all of you helpful forum members
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Old 09-09-2020, 06:44 AM
  #6410  
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Let me get these out of the way for you guys.

"OmG mY 20 iS aLrEaDy OuT oF dAtE"
"I drive *insert old car here* and it beats new xrays"
"Ive been racing for 30 years and back in my day it was decades in-between updates"
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Old 09-09-2020, 07:13 AM
  #6411  
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I will be amazed if they don't bring the xb4 diff height adjustment over to this one.
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Old 09-09-2020, 08:45 AM
  #6412  
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Originally Posted by Dysl3xicDog
I will be amazed if they don't bring the xb4 diff height adjustment over to this one.


Explain.
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Old 09-09-2020, 09:04 AM
  #6413  
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Originally Posted by Dysl3xicDog
I will be amazed if they don't bring the xb4 diff height adjustment over to this one.
It already has it
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Old 09-09-2020, 12:27 PM
  #6414  
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Originally Posted by HarryLeach


Explain.
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Old 09-09-2020, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ChadoSan
It already has it
Not the whole gearbox, just the diff.
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Old 09-09-2020, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Dysl3xicDog
Originally Posted by Dysl3xicDog
Not the whole gearbox, just the diff.
The XB2 2020 already has that. LIke already stated.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...2/p1147998?r=0
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...23019/p1147980
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Old 09-10-2020, 12:55 PM
  #6417  
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I wish they would do the 21 like TLR did with the Elite buggy. Keep it mostly unchanged but throw in some of the aluminum and carbon fiber upgrades. I don't expect it though
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Old 09-12-2020, 11:03 AM
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Does anyone know advantages or disadvantages of using the silicone shock shaft o-rings? Manual shows it as an option but doesn't seem to describe when you would want to use them. Also do most of you guys sand and then glue the carbon fiber shock towers? Wonder why Xray is the only company that seems to suggest doing this
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Old 09-12-2020, 12:48 PM
  #6419  
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Originally Posted by Milkdudd
Does anyone know advantages or disadvantages of using the silicone shock shaft o-rings? Manual shows it as an option but doesn't seem to describe when you would want to use them. Also do most of you guys sand and then glue the carbon fiber shock towers? Wonder why Xray is the only company that seems to suggest doing this
I'm no expert but my understanding is that silicone o-rings don't react to the silicone oil used in dampers so don't suffer the swelling that conventional o-rings do. Not sure what the disadvantages are but I guess there must be some otherwise they would be the standard.
As for sanding and glueing the edges of carbon fiber parts, thats pretty much standard practice for touring car chassis where there's a chance of delamination or splitting after suffering an impact. It also removes the sharp edge that can snag when racing on carpet. Its not so common in off-road but I see plenty of people do it (including) me, mainly if they have run a tc at some point.
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Old 09-12-2020, 04:03 PM
  #6420  
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Originally Posted by jph98
I'm no expert but my understanding is that silicone o-rings don't react to the silicone oil used in dampers so don't suffer the swelling that conventional o-rings do. Not sure what the disadvantages are but I guess there must be some otherwise they would be the standard.
As for sanding and glueing the edges of carbon fiber parts, thats pretty much standard practice for touring car chassis where there's a chance of delamination or splitting after suffering an impact. It also removes the sharp edge that can snag when racing on carpet. Its not so common in off-road but I see plenty of people do it (including) me, mainly if they have run a tc at some point.
Okay thanks. At first I was concerned about runs getting on the face of the carbon fiber plates but those could be covered with masking tape so just the edges are exposed
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