Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread >

Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree333Likes

Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-17-2019, 07:13 AM
  #6136  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
 
edonsohc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: edon ohio
Posts: 294
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by m3rcfh
Looks great, how about some at the track reports
ran mine on carpet Friday. I went from a 17 xray to the 20. So it drove very different. I have driven 19s and the 20 drive very similar to those. Has a ton of steering and great rear grip. Very happy with it. Only build issue i had was they sent two sets of rear springs instead of the front and rear springs. I put the 3 dot from last year's model on it. They are longer but worked until i can get the correct ones.

Last edited by edonsohc; 11-17-2019 at 04:42 PM.
edonsohc is offline  
Old 11-18-2019, 04:49 AM
  #6137  
Tech Adept
 
D1360's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 222
Default

Are these aluminum towers low or high?
#322086
#323086

Will these work good with my shocks? I have a xb2 carpet ´18 , currently using the high towers.

D1360 is offline  
Old 11-18-2019, 06:59 AM
  #6138  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (41)
 
Anthony.L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 2,920
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by D1360
Are these aluminum towers low or high?
#322086
#323086

Will these work good with my shocks? I have a xb2 carpet ´18 , currently using the high towers.
The alum towers are low, so if you want to run them on your 18 you will need to upgrade the front shocks to the shorter body/shaft. I just did the same on my 18.
Anthony.L is offline  
Old 11-18-2019, 08:22 AM
  #6139  
Tech Adept
 
D1360's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 222
Default

Originally Posted by Anthony.L
The alum towers are low, so if you want to run them on your 18 you will need to upgrade the front shocks to the shorter body/shaft. I just did the same on my 18.
The same thing in the rear, shorter shocks needed?
D1360 is offline  
Old 11-18-2019, 10:32 AM
  #6140  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
Reno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fort Dodge, IA
Posts: 329
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by m3rcfh
Looks great, how about some at the track reports
High bite carpet. Mid to large track. Long straight, tight corners and some good jumps. Prisms on rear, Schumacher Low Cut Stagger on front.

Had practice time Friday and a points race Saturday then a little practice Sunday.

Buggy was pushy with box setup.
Changes: Moved servo all the way forward. Battery all the way forward. Added battery and servo weight. Moved rear hubs back. Put in 2.5 caster blocks.
Result: Was much better. Switched to Prisms on front. Was better. Turned some fast laps.
Next: Rear anit-sway bar, less rear toe, Ackerman.

Overall: Buggy handles very well. After changes it was much better. Compared to my 19 it has more mellow steering. My 19 turned on a dime at 80% DR. I have this one at 100% DR. Never ran my 19 on 100%.
I feel it needs more steering. I will be trying the above changes.

To be continued....
Reno is offline  
Old 11-18-2019, 10:49 AM
  #6141  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 371
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Reno
High bite carpet. Mid to large track. Long straight, tight corners and some good jumps. Prisms on rear, Schumacher Low Cut Stagger on front.

Had practice time Friday and a points race Saturday then a little practice Sunday.

Buggy was pushy with box setup.
Changes: Moved servo all the way forward. Battery all the way forward. Added battery and servo weight. Moved rear hubs back. Put in 2.5 caster blocks.
Result: Was much better. Switched to Prisms on front. Was better. Turned some fast laps.
Next: Rear anit-sway bar, less rear toe, Ackerman.

Overall: Buggy handles very well. After changes it was much better. Compared to my 19 it has more mellow steering. My 19 turned on a dime at 80% DR. I have this one at 100% DR. Never ran my 19 on 100%.
I feel it needs more steering. I will be trying the above changes.

To be continued....
That's an awesome first review, thanks for taking the time to share!

I'm not an expert by any means, but that's the concern I had as I saw the changes on the rear arms to the 4wd on 2020... maybe a little too much rear traction on power? I got that from testing the same thing with the 18.
I ended up get the 19 for a steal, and I'm very happy with it. Such small changes from 18 to 19 made the car a lethal weapon on astro for me, box stock
m3rcfh is offline  
Old 11-18-2019, 08:38 PM
  #6142  
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,129
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Curious about your experience with the front prisms vs the Schumacher fronts? And have you tried cactus rear?

I currently run cactus/wedge squared f/r in blue/z3 and am thinking of trying prism/prism in z3 or prism/wedge squared.
MrLean is offline  
Old 11-19-2019, 06:58 AM
  #6143  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
Reno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fort Dodge, IA
Posts: 329
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MrLean
Curious about your experience with the front prisms vs the Schumacher fronts? And have you tried cactus rear?

I currently run cactus/wedge squared f/r in blue/z3 and am thinking of trying prism/prism in z3 or prism/wedge squared.
On the 19 I ran Prism Z3 rear and Schumacher Low Cut Stagger yellow front. Worked great. Had DR around 80%. I felt the Prism on front was too aggressive. Some guys liked them.
On the 20 I started out the same but ended up with Prism front and rear in Z3. Right now the 20 just doesn't have as much steering. DR is at 100% still. Working on that.
Just added rear anti-sway bar so we will see Wednesday. One step at a time! lol!
Reno is offline  
Old 11-20-2019, 09:51 AM
  #6144  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
Reno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fort Dodge, IA
Posts: 329
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Update: I had a chance to test a little more last night. With the added rear anti-sway bar the car was not as good. Wanted to traction roll and didn't feel as planted to the track. Removed and was much better.
I did try some wide front Prism. They were OK but sticking with the narrow. They have more steering. I now have my DR down to about 85%. All in all I think I am pretty good now with the major changes. Now I will try some of the usual small changes to see if I can get a bit better.
Always looking for those tenths! I feel it is as fast as the 19 but is easier to drive. More mellow.
Reno is offline  
Old 11-20-2019, 12:40 PM
  #6145  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 140
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone by chance have a list of all the hinge-pin lengths? I looked through the manual and parts list, didn't see any specs for them.
dcerven94 is offline  
Old 11-21-2019, 10:47 AM
  #6146  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
Reno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fort Dodge, IA
Posts: 329
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

I'm back! Had a club race last night. I made a rear pill adjustment and now the buggy is on a rail! Super fast and easy to drive. Plenty of steering.
I think I am there. Of course I will continue to try some more tweaks.

Super happy with the 2020 now.
dave-man and MrLean like this.
Reno is offline  
Old 11-21-2019, 11:05 AM
  #6147  
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,129
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Reno
I'm back! Had a club race last night. I made a rear pill adjustment and now the buggy is on a rail! Super fast and easy to drive. Plenty of steering.
I think I am there. Of course I will continue to try some more tweaks.

Super happy with the 2020 now.
What did you change with the pills?
MrLean is offline  
Old 11-22-2019, 04:14 AM
  #6148  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (259)
 
rraden's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 5,450
Trader Rating: 259 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dcerven94
Does anyone by chance have a list of all the hinge-pin lengths? I looked through the manual and parts list, didn't see any specs for them.
Also, does anyone know the part number for the dirt version rear outer hinge pin? It's not listed on the instructions or the parts list. It's longer than the current rear pin.
dcerven94 likes this.
rraden is offline  
Old 11-22-2019, 06:31 AM
  #6149  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (41)
 
Anthony.L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 2,920
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Playing more with my frankenstein xb2c 19. i first started with AE B6.1 front gullwing arms. Switched over to Yokomo YZ-2 front gullwing arms.





I found this online tutorial on flat vs. gullwing arms and so far in my testing I've found this very accurate for the xb2 on the topic

The gullwing arm tends to:
1) less forward weight transfer off power
2) less likely to snap roll at end of straight
3) usually can push more in tight turns, good for laydown car which has weight forward.
4) I recommend using more antisquat with gull front end

The flat arm tends to:
1) more entry steering off power to get into the turns
2) better with stand-up gearbox, more steering
3) can be more likely to snap roll on super high traction
4) have the same arm left and right, easier on spare parts
Anthony.L is offline  
Old 11-22-2019, 10:29 AM
  #6150  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
 
Reno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fort Dodge, IA
Posts: 329
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MrLean
What did you change with the pills?
Installed them the same as my 19 and all my buddies.

Use 1 deg pills.
Front - Up and Out
Rear - Up and In
MrLean likes this.
Reno is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.