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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 09-05-2019, 09:03 PM
  #6031  
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Originally Posted by Iketruman
Hate to ask a dumb question, but looking at buying a 2wd and I like the Xray. I see the 2019 is on sale, new one coming out? Hate to buy this one and a new one come out next month.
Yes we are getting close to the time of year Xray announces their next model year kit. All the 2019 kits are on sale to move out the inventory prior. The 19 is a very competitive car, if you want an awesome deal pick one up lightly used for half the price of a new kit.
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Old 09-06-2019, 12:25 PM
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With the xb20 coming out what do you think going to be new with the car,we know there will be front gull wing arms
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Old 09-08-2019, 08:27 AM
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Ran my 2017 hybrid xb2 yesterday w/ a laydown on some outdoor clay. Track wanted to groove up but heavy watering in between rounds destroyed the groove. Positrons/slicks were a popular tire over the summer but not yesterday. Pins/bars worked evenly well. Car was a handful, brass c block/weight under battery/exotek battery brace w/ turnbuckle removed/ added more rear toe/ lower roll center/long links in the back. Slipper was set on bench, front wheels not lifting up off table. Stand up would of helped w/ all the 180's, 90* turns laydown was good. Most were running stand ups. I guess next time I run it outdoors I'll find a low traction outdoor set up on pettit. Xb4 felt like a rocket ship after driving the 2wd
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Old 09-18-2019, 12:57 PM
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I'm about to rebuild my gear diff for the first time and was wondering about a couple of things:

1. For a short indoor carpet track, should I use two or four spider gears?
2. What weight diff oil/grease do you prefer?

Thanks in advance
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Old 09-19-2019, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Burl Swift
I'm about to rebuild my gear diff for the first time and was wondering about a couple of things:

1. For a short indoor carpet track, should I use two or four spider gears?
2. What weight diff oil/grease do you prefer?

Thanks in advance
1 - Either works. I have used both with good success.
2 - 4 gear use 5 to 7K. 2 Gear use 7 to 10K.
There are just starting points.
Higher diff fluid will make the car push more. Less will free it up.
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Old 09-21-2019, 10:39 AM
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I've experimented with four composite gears and two metal gears, and not sure if I can really tell much difference. The weight of the diff oil makes a very noticeable difference.

Lately on a small indoor carpet track I've been running 20k. Otherwise the car tends to diff out when charging hard out of corners.
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Old 09-23-2019, 07:23 AM
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Does anyone know if the newer 2019 OEM body (alpha 2) fit on a 2018 chassis?
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Old 09-23-2019, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by m3rcfh
Does anyone know if the newer 2019 OEM body (alpha 2) fit on a 2018 chassis?
I have seen the body on a 2016 car, so assume it fits the 18 car.
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Old 09-23-2019, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by m3rcfh
Does anyone know if the newer 2019 OEM body (alpha 2) fit on a 2018 chassis?
Yes, body mount and fit has been unchanged for years. I switch bodies between my 18 and 19 chassis all the time.
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Old 09-24-2019, 11:24 AM
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I just picked up a new XB2D 19 kit and I was wondering what aluminum servo horn everyone is using? Any other aluminum bits and pieces that anyone recommends?
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Old 09-24-2019, 07:22 PM
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Hudy alum servo arm.

XRAY alum front and rear roll center. Pretty much all that is needed.
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Old 09-29-2019, 02:49 PM
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Just started my XB2D 19 edition and noticed there is a decent amount of side to side movement of the ball diff in the diff case. Anyone shim the movement out or is it fine as is?
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Old 09-30-2019, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ouhockeyplayer
Just started my XB2D 19 edition and noticed there is a decent amount of side to side movement of the ball diff in the diff case. Anyone shim the movement out or is it fine as is?
I've ran my XB2D for almost a year with the small movement and zero issues. You should be alright running it as it is.
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Old 10-02-2019, 03:41 AM
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Default Steering issues

I'm struggling to get my 18 XB2C to have more steering on astroturf (17.5 blinky), looking for some ideas...
Car is box-stock, other than the following things I tried:
- brass bulkhead
- rear sway bars
- front shocks on the outer most position at the arms
- battery weight
- front aggressive tires (PL Prism)
- less toe on the rear
- battery forward

combining all options above or most at a time, rear wheel would get off the ground or break traction in a turn. Picking a few options at a time and trying, the car still has very little steering (strong forward push, or little on-power steering).

So before enbarquing on the long journey of fine adjustments with springs, pill inserts, etc; I wanted to check if there are known big hitters that will affect steering.

Thanks!

Last edited by m3rcfh; 10-02-2019 at 04:18 AM. Reason: Adding more info
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Old 10-02-2019, 05:47 AM
  #6045  
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Default Steering in front

Originally Posted by m3rcfh
I'm struggling to get my 18 XB2C to have more steering on astroturf (17.5 blinky), looking for some ideas...
Car is box-stock, other than the following things I tried:
- brass bulkhead
- rear sway bars
- front shocks on the outer most position at the arms
- battery weight
- front aggressive tires (PL Prism)
- less toe on the rear
- battery forward

combining all options above or most at a time, rear wheel would get off the ground or break traction in a turn. Picking a few options at a time and trying, the car still has very little steering (strong forward push, or little on-power steering).

So before enbarquing on the long journey of fine adjustments with springs, pill inserts, etc; I wanted to check if there are known big hitters that will affect steering.

Thanks!
Try running proline pyramids in the front on cut rims. Setup is not always the reason...
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