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Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

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Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 01-10-2018, 01:27 PM
  #5341  
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Originally Posted by EricW
We'd all still be driving RC10 gold pans if we followed this advice.
well...

they ran a Vintage class this weekend at the track. One of the Mod drivers got a new Gold pan car, and ran it with correct tires and brushless motor/lipo, so everything is modern except the chassis was. He would have been mid pack in stock class.

So there is some truth to this. ;-)

Last edited by Rexracing; 01-10-2018 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 01-11-2018, 02:10 PM
  #5342  
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So I got my 2018 and have been putting it together the last few nights and here are some of my thoughts. Its like hearing about a movie and how amazing it it is over and over, but then you see it but you are not blow away, its good, even great, but not life changing. Its managing expectations.

Quality is good, but with all the hype about "luxury X-ray" I was a bit surprised by a few things. Like the gear diff is plastic, the shock caps are plastic, the hub spacers are plastic. The chassis didnt have any type of protector on it, so there was some minor scratches from moving around in the box (and it had some sticky stuff all over it like a production protector?) but 1st run it will be worse then this, lastly a lot of parts still attached to the mold trees that have to be cut out/trimmed. Most of these things weren't there even with the last car I built, Losi 22 2.0.

That being said, the quality of all the plastics is fantastic. Niceties like all the turnbuckls eyelets, shock eyelets, etc..they have a starter bump at the end to make starting the thread the first time much easier. Instructions are great, I would like a few more details, like greasing the diff, how much. This is something anyone racing for long "knows" but if I had never built a car before I wouldnt know if it wanted 1 drop or the entire tube. BUT most 1st timers are not going to be building this thing.

On the "issues" people have had, so far no missing parts. I really appropriate the trees with the extra parts on them so you can pick what you need, and then you have tuning options as well. I don't have a 3mm reamer so was worried about that, but the first arm was perfect. The 2nd arm was binding, but I worked the hinge pin in/out a few times, and it knocked a molding burr off and it moves freely now. Idler shaft bearing slid on without issue.

The only concern I have right now (3/4 done with build), is the 67mm drive shafts, without shocks, and arms down (with sway attached so about 1/2 travel) the shafts are close to coming out. I assume with shocks limiting the travel this wont be an issue.

I say all this not to be negative, but for future people thinking about one of these, to be realistic with expectations. Excited to finish up the build and get to drive this awesome machine.
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Old 01-11-2018, 03:52 PM
  #5343  
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Ran my XB2 18 for the first time in a club race yesterday. I am still relatively new to the offroad scene but I was able to keep up with some of the fast guys on the track with worn down tires and a 78T spur in 17.5. Have to say that the XB2 is much more easier to drive and is faster through the corners than the B6. Contacted RC America about the wrong axles in the box and Bryan responded within a few hours. Now looking forward to the right axles to come in the mail, so that I can actually have the right rear offset.
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Old 01-11-2018, 04:15 PM
  #5344  
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Originally Posted by Rexracing
So I got my 2018 and have been putting it together the last few nights and here are some of my thoughts. Its like hearing about a movie and how amazing it it is over and over, but then you see it but you are not blow away, its good, even great, but not life changing. Its managing expectations.

Quality is good, but with all the hype about "luxury X-ray" I was a bit surprised by a few things. Like the gear diff is plastic, the shock caps are plastic, the hub spacers are plastic. The chassis didnt have any type of protector on it, so there was some minor scratches from moving around in the box (and it had some sticky stuff all over it like a production protector?) but 1st run it will be worse then this, lastly a lot of parts still attached to the mold trees that have to be cut out/trimmed. Most of these things weren't there even with the last car I built, Losi 22 2.0.

That being said, the quality of all the plastics is fantastic. Niceties like all the turnbuckls eyelets, shock eyelets, etc..they have a starter bump at the end to make starting the thread the first time much easier. Instructions are great, I would like a few more details, like greasing the diff, how much. This is something anyone racing for long "knows" but if I had never built a car before I wouldnt know if it wanted 1 drop or the entire tube. BUT most 1st timers are not going to be building this thing.

On the "issues" people have had, so far no missing parts. I really appropriate the trees with the extra parts on them so you can pick what you need, and then you have tuning options as well. I don't have a 3mm reamer so was worried about that, but the first arm was perfect. The 2nd arm was binding, but I worked the hinge pin in/out a few times, and it knocked a molding burr off and it moves freely now. Idler shaft bearing slid on without issue.

The only concern I have right now (3/4 done with build), is the 67mm drive shafts, without shocks, and arms down (with sway attached so about 1/2 travel) the shafts are close to coming out. I assume with shocks limiting the travel this wont be an issue.

I say all this not to be negative, but for future people thinking about one of these, to be realistic with expectations. Excited to finish up the build and get to drive this awesome machine.
I actually ran into some of the same issues you did during my build (somewhat scratched chassis from shipping etc) and was a little disappointed because my XT2 build was amazing. I also got a 18 XB4 and did not run into any problems. With those issues set aside, the car is by far easier to drive than my previous B6 without a 1/4 of the hop ups that were needed to make the B6 competitive...just my opinion.
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Old 01-12-2018, 07:45 AM
  #5345  
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Originally Posted by yxiaocheng
OK thanks. Yeah I did get the kit in the US. I will email Xray and RC America.
Let me know if they even answer. My kit was missing the battery foam (of all things!!!). Despite my emailing them several times, I have yet to hear from them. "Luxury" RC car my foot. Things have gone down hill for Xray over the years and support is not what it used to be.
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Old 01-12-2018, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by gacbora
I actually ran into some of the same issues you did during my build (somewhat scratched chassis from shipping etc) and was a little disappointed because my XT2 build was amazing. I also got a 18 XB4 and did not run into any problems. With those issues set aside, the car is by far easier to drive than my previous B6 without a 1/4 of the hop ups that were needed to make the B6 competitive...just my opinion.
Thats sort of my point, I am not at all un-happy, but wanted to give inject some "reality" into this thread. Reading the comments and the "sales pitch" you think you are buying a Rolls Royce, but really your buying a Mercedes.
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Old 01-12-2018, 10:27 AM
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The local track is switching from turf to black carpet and is now requiring shock tower protectors. Does anyone make one for the XB2? If not I'll just make one from thick plastic.
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Old 01-12-2018, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by anthonyscardina
The local track is switching from turf to black carpet and is now requiring shock tower protectors. Does anyone make one for the XB2? If not I'll just make one from thick plastic.
This might be a little silly assuming they run spike tires on the track. Then again, the rubber spike tires bend and the carbon fiber shock towers don't. So maybe they have a point.
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Old 01-12-2018, 11:42 AM
  #5349  
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Originally Posted by anthonyscardina
The local track is switching from turf to black carpet and is now requiring shock tower protectors. Does anyone make one for the XB2? If not I'll just make one from thick plastic.
Check with the track and show them the shock towers. I don't believe you'll need the protectors with the xray design and where the shock caps are placed.
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Old 01-12-2018, 11:54 AM
  #5350  
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Originally Posted by Pville Stig
Check with the track and show them the shock towers. I don't believe you'll need the protectors with the xray design and where the shock caps are placed.
nuts holding shock on can cut into the carpet. Shapeways makes these
https://www.shapeways.com/product/A2...wer-protectors
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Old 01-12-2018, 01:34 PM
  #5351  
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They're only allowing slicks. I saw that one on shapeways but I've got 3 printers of my own lol
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Old 01-12-2018, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by scr8pn4205
nuts holding shock on can cut into the carpet. Shapeways makes these
https://www.shapeways.com/product/A2...wer-protectors
I can't post the link, but there are other ones on shapeways that I use and work really well. Just do a search...
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Old 01-12-2018, 02:21 PM
  #5353  
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Oh shock covers to protect the carpet. I saw this pictures and assumed they were just for added looks.
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Old 01-12-2018, 02:26 PM
  #5354  
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@rex, hit up RCA about the axel issue. they should be able to help out if needed.
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Old 01-12-2018, 10:39 PM
  #5355  
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schumacher makes some nice clear shock tower/no snag/carpet protectors. in the past when buggies ran on indoor carpet tracks only during winters, i remember some midwest tracks requiring shock/tower covers, racers made them out of lexan. main reason then was to protect the carpet which was usually ozite.
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