Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread >

Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree333Likes

Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 05-04-2019, 06:44 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe) or add 1.5mm carbon avid spacers



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-08-2016, 08:38 AM
  #4171  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
mustangkillaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,155
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lyons238
yeah honestly all hudy and xray stuff is second to none. i dont use any aftermarket things on my cars just xray/hudy option parts.

as for the 13.5 that will be fine but then you have to race in the mod class and will just get beat. id still recommend getting a good 17.5t motor to be quite honest.

and yes sometimes emulsion shocks can be a pain when you're used to bladder-type. what i do is use one of those shock pumps and i pump the air out of the oil. so no bubbles are there. and i bleed the shocks twice as to have no rebound/suck (at least until air is pushed in from use).
XR10 PRO has been secured..

I am gonna go with a 17.5T motor.. now to see if a stock HW motor will do for a while. High end stock motors are $150 and not in my budget. Any suggestions on a motor?
mustangkillaz is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 08:48 AM
  #4172  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 783
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mustangkillaz
XR10 PRO has been secured..

I am gonna go with a 17.5T motor.. now to see if a stock HW motor will do for a while. High end stock motors are $150 and not in my budget. Any suggestions on a motor?
i would say get the reedy mach 3 17.5 - theyre known to be basically the best mainstream stock motor. they also have different rotor options for dialing in torque vs high end.

not only are they fast with adequate power band, but they perform well, stay cool, and last a long time. they're one of the best stock motors for sure. a Trinity D4 is also a good inexpensive option - but i think i would still go reedy.

if money wasn't a concern i personally would run the Fantom with all the option parts but that costs like $170
lyons238 is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 09:19 AM
  #4173  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
 
seth556's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,233
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default

Regular Fantom V2R with the 12.5mm rotor is great, no real need to spend the extra money. Ceramic bearings and aluminum screws aren't going to make much of any real world difference.
seth556 is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 09:31 AM
  #4174  
JAE
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,974
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Rather spend $100 for basic Fantom then $90 for basic reedy. I have both. No comparison.

I also have the now "older" type M and the new v2 motor. For the price right now I would get the M as it's on sale if on a budget. After signing up for their mailing list, you will get about 10 percent off. It will be $118 Shipped i believe. That comes with everything but the aluminum parts. Still get the "ultra select" rotor" ceramic bearings etc. Plus they set timing for you. That cant be beat.
JAE is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 10:13 AM
  #4175  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 783
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by JAE
Rather spend $100 for basic Fantom then $90 for basic reedy. I have both. No comparison.

I also have the now "older" type M and the new v2 motor. For the price right now I would get the M as it's on sale if on a budget. After signing up for their mailing list, you will get about 10 percent off. It will be $118 Shipped i believe. That comes with everything but the aluminum parts. Still get the "ultra select" rotor" ceramic bearings etc. Plus they set timing for you. That cant be beat.
i agree i'd rather a fantom myself - i was just saying for sake of price and accessibility the reedy is good.
lyons238 is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 11:45 AM
  #4176  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (36)
 
hoyt1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Posts: 360
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lyons238
i agree i'd rather a fantom myself - i was just saying for sake of price and accessibility the reedy is good.
I will 3rd that, Fantom is a great motor, I run the v2t fr-1 17.5 also, the midrange power in mine is super.

I will also say the Maclan 17.5 is quite impressive for the money ($89.00) on amain. I have ran that motor last year and my son still runs it in a 22 3.0, its darn impressive and nicely made.

Last edited by hoyt1967; 12-08-2016 at 01:25 PM.
hoyt1967 is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 01:35 PM
  #4177  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 783
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hoyt1967
I will 3rd that, Fantom is a great motor, I run the v2t fr-1 17.5 also, the midrange power in mine is super.

I will also say the Maclan 17.5 is quite impressive for the money ($89.00) on amain. I have ran that motor last year and my son still runs it in a 22 3.0, its darn impressive and nicely made.
yeah i recommended maclan in my first post to mustang. i just recommended the reedy to him because it's easily accessible and you can rebuild it and swap rotors like nothing. it's a great motor for someone looking for just a good solid motor in stock racing - it's very competitive. i told him that there's better brands but they're harder to find and typically more expensive. and harder to rebuild/tune.
lyons238 is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 01:39 PM
  #4178  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
mustangkillaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,155
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Got the xr10 pro and went with a SCHUUR SPEED SPEED Extreme stock spec V3 17.5

I was in a hurry and got a great deal at my local track, along with free track time. The motor is the best best they had on the shelf. It's hand built, dyno tested, etc. They also had a standard boxed version. Hopefully this blueprinted version was worth the extra $50 bucks, if not, the free track time more than made up for it. They had a standard and short stack version. I got the less torque, faster version. Probably would of gone torque version on a 4wd. The label shows it comes with 50 degrees of timing, the other version had like 39 or so. Still a big learning curve from my brushed rc10 days...lol.

Thanks for all the advice, guys!
mustangkillaz is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 01:41 PM
  #4179  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
mustangkillaz's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,155
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Almost forgot, what pinion gear should I be looking at? I'll sit down later and look at the book..

The local track had a wall full of gears, mostly tlr and some other smaller names.
mustangkillaz is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 01:49 PM
  #4180  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 783
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mustangkillaz
Got the xr10 pro and went with a SCHUUR SPEED SPEED Extreme stock spec V3 17.5

I was in a hurry and got a great deal at my local track, along with free track time. The motor is the best best they had on the shelf. It's hand built, dyno tested, etc. They also had a standard boxed version. Hopefully this blueprinted version was worth the extra $50 bucks, if not, the free track time more than made up for it. They had a standard and short stack version. I got the less torque, faster version. Probably would of gone torque version on a 4wd. The label shows it comes with 50 degrees of timing, the other version had like 39 or so. Still a big learning curve from my brushed rc10 days...lol.

Thanks for all the advice, guys!
Originally Posted by mustangkillaz
Almost forgot, what pinion gear should I be looking at? I'll sit down later and look at the book..

The local track had a wall full of gears, mostly tlr and some other smaller names.
Schurrspeed's are excellent! They actually work with Hobbywing for Hobbywing's motors so you're staying in the family - but the schurrspeed stock motors are better for sure.

As for gearing I would start with 32/69
lyons238 is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 01:49 PM
  #4181  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Seattle, Wa.
Posts: 55
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

In stock configuration (17.5), i run a 29/72 on a slipper eliminator. It all depends on how tight/short your track is....
cyclebrkr is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 01:52 PM
  #4182  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 783
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by cyclebrkr
In stock configuration (17.5), i run a 29/72 on a slipper eliminator. It all depends on how tight/short your track is....
that's extremely low gearing - i would say that 29/72 is not what most people run more like 34/72 maybe. but i see mostly 32/69 on our cars at medium sized tracks.

Mustang - definitely get the 69t spur gear as it sets the motor rearward for traction, is lighter, and gives you more top speed with the option to still gear low enough if needed.
lyons238 is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 01:53 PM
  #4183  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Seattle, Wa.
Posts: 55
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Is there a table that someone has developed that would tell you gearing ratio for different track configurations? 32/69 seems tall, this gearing would be good for top speed, not a tight track, where you would need power out of the corners...
cyclebrkr is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 01:55 PM
  #4184  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Seattle, Wa.
Posts: 55
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lyons238
that's extremely low gearing - i would say that 29/72 is not what most people run more like 34/72 maybe. but i see mostly 32/69 on our cars at medium sized tracks.

Mustang - definitely get the 69t spur gear as it sets the motor rearward for traction, is lighter, and gives you more top speed with the option to still gear low enough if needed.
The 29/72 gets out of the corner fast....
cyclebrkr is offline  
Old 12-08-2016, 01:55 PM
  #4185  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Seattle, Wa.
Posts: 55
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

I guess it all depends on your driving style also.....
cyclebrkr is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.