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Schumacher's new K2 4wd buggy ..!

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Old 08-11-2016, 07:12 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Schumacher's new K2 4wd buggy ..!
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Last edit by: AmiSMB
Welcome to the Schumacher K2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add tips and tricks as well as any information that you would feel is beneficial for everyone to know.

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

ElectronicsSetupElectronicsSetups

Setup SheetsSetup Sheets

EmulsionShocksEmulsion Shocks

Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Help I Keep Breaking Front Arms

With the K2 Schumacher sarted using an adjustable hub design that required
a relief cut in the arms for the steering knuckle to clear. The easiest solution
until a revised arm is to run the old style arms without the relief cut. Run the
hubs in the High position and set your steering end points down so the steering knuckles don't hit.

SCHU3597
SCHU3407 MED Flex

There is a newer batch of the SCHU3407 wishbones which correct the weakness in the previous front arms.

Suggested upgrades/spares
Strongly suggest to buy 10° alloy front alloy pivot blocks-U3556 the A & B front plastic pivot blocks-U4798 will break soon.

Have some shock seats spares, alloy v1-U3611, plastic-U3937, alloy v2 (off-road)-U4890

Have some spare shock shafts available U3668 & U3669
MIP pucks an Excellent option!

Misc

Other wheels that fit apart from the Schumacher wheels
Losi 22-4 wheels will fit on the front the rears will work as well!
AE b4, b5 & b6 will fit on the rear
Be sure to lock tight the track screws and rear strap this is a must!!!

AE (12mm) and KYO fronts will work with .5mm spacer - available through AVID


Don't buy the purple titanium turnbuckles as an upgrade there thread is too small and they wander too much. Lunsford Super-duty titanium turnbuckles fit very well they are 3.5mm threads. Get the 1 3/4", 2 1/8" & 57mm lengths. I did not replace the Centre Track Rod.

** When running the Super Duty turnbuckles with the stock captured ball ends, be sure to check for binding in the front steering and camber links after each run - tumbles and glances off the pipes cause them to flex and slightly twist and can bind up the front suspension ... The fix? - simply take a turnbuckle wrench and twist the link back and then forward to it's original positon .. consider doing this as a maintenance step after each run ..

Suggested Gearing

5.5 - indoor high bite clay 83/20 (+/- 1 tooth for layout and conditions etc)
6.5
7.5
8.5
9.5
10.5
13.5 At SRS Arizona I ran 75/28 buggy was quick! RCM lockout worked great!
17.5 - FDR between 5-6 depending on track. E.g. 35/66 down to 30/69 slipper eliminator in use. Different options within the thread. I use B5M exotek eliminator and file it to fit.

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Old 11-06-2017, 05:46 AM
  #796  
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Yes slightly.

When the shocks are fresh there’s no air. Air is drawn in through the orings eventually. Causing them to become emulsion. That’s when their due for freshening.
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Old 11-06-2017, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony Newland
Your aware vented and emulsion are completely different ways of building shocks? Mine have no air in them like your describing. Vented, as schumacher refers to that style, is what 90% of the cars we race use.
That's not possible. As the shaft enters the shock body, the volume increases. It has to go somewhere. Air is compressible, but the shock oil not so much. In the real world there are monotube and twin tube shocks. Monotube has a floating piston with compressible nitrogen behind it. Twin tube has a bag of air in the outer chamber. Your shock build has air bubbles. Without compressible gas, the shock hydro locks.
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:15 AM
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I think your misunderstanding me

Emulsion: Building a shock with a sealed cap knowing that removing 100% of the air is impossible EG: old AE shocks

Vented: Removing excess air and oil volume via bleeder screw. 0 air, but vacuum at full extension that eventually draws air through orings.
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:28 AM
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Some could consider both styles similar. I don’t. Bleeders make building the shocks air free and consistent so much easier than years ago. I’ve never liked bladders in lighter cars like our 1/10. Imo they add rebound and additional dampening that’s less consistent than bleeders. 1/8 is different mainly due to additional weight, as the bladders have much less effect on the shocks imo.
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:24 AM
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Big bore or small bore? I'm in love with the small bores. The three must haves for this car are the thinner chassis, 2 pad slipper and small bores. Totally changed my car.
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:46 AM
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Big bore of course. I haven't ran small bore in years, I dont like building shocks that frequently lol Although they are lighter, cant dispute that
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Old 11-11-2017, 01:53 PM
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For those running the 2.0mm chassis and 2.5mm rear top deck, are you running the aluminum chassis rails/stiffners? Not sure what too much flex is with the belt system. I left them off on my first k2 for flex but building my new one with the option chassis and rear deck.

Thanks
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Old 11-11-2017, 02:06 PM
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For those running the 2.0mm chassis and 2.5mm rear top deck, are you running the aluminum chassis rails/stiffners? Not sure what too much flex is with the belt system. I left them off on my first k2 for flex but building my new one with the option chassis and rear deck.

Thanks
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Old 11-11-2017, 10:35 PM
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I don't run them. I think the car needed way more flex. Even my reliability went up with the flex.
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Old 11-12-2017, 05:29 AM
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Thanks.

Anyone know where to get the front arm aluminum pivots that replace the plastic ones? Searched high n low and it looks like they are no longer available?
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Old 11-12-2017, 06:24 AM
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They make the car more reactive. For most it’s easier to drive without them.

The mounts are all available. Which mount specifically are you looking for?
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Old 11-12-2017, 06:40 AM
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Hey tony! Thanks for the reply. I'm looking for what I believe they call "A" pivot for the front arm. I thought they use to offer an aluminum version of this? I've found it on DRCS website in the past I thought. Think they labels them as 10* aluminum pivots?
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Old 11-12-2017, 07:14 AM
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Found em! These should work on k2 or not?

Schumacher U3556 Pivot Block 10 degree CAT SX Free Shipping DiscountRCStore
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Old 11-12-2017, 07:46 AM
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Yes
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Old 11-12-2017, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Tony Newland

Vented: Removing excess air and oil volume via bleeder screw. 0 air, but vacuum at full extension that eventually draws air through orings.
The air in your vented description is introduced the first time you draw the shaft out to extension after sealing the cap. If the shock were air tight, you would not be able to move the shaft because silicone is not compressible at all (dot5 brake fluid is silicone).
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