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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-09-2016, 07:41 PM
  #2041  
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Originally Posted by weedsnager
Just so I'm crystal clear. The arm mod is the cutting away of the plastic that he explains in the video...not the reaming of the arms , correct ?
This area ?
Correct
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
Are the pros doing the arm mod? Just curious. It seems Tekno would come out with the option for the modified arms especially if the team/pros are doing it.
I know Lutz does, and I'm pretty sure Bornhorst is as well.
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:21 PM
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I understood it like you. But I guess you will need some reaming just to be sure that the hingepin slides freely
This mod is supposed to catch less dirt
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Old 08-10-2016, 06:35 AM
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yeah the arm mod is pretty much standard now across all of the vehicles. Allows the cars to have a more forgiving and plush landing. I suggest after each weekend you pop the arms off and just run a reamer through to clean out any dirt.

One of the side benefits is that if you do get a slight hingepin bend, your arm won't bind up. Obviously you'll want to replace that hingepin, but you'll finish your race without the arm locked into one spot.
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
yeah the arm mod is pretty much standard now across all of the vehicles. Allows the cars to have a more forgiving and plush landing. I suggest after each weekend you pop the arms off and just run a reamer through to clean out any dirt.

One of the side benefits is that if you do get a slight hingepin bend, your arm won't bind up. Obviously you'll want to replace that hingepin, but you'll finish your race without the arm locked into one spot.
Is it being done on just the buggies or on truggies and sct too?
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Old 08-10-2016, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
Is it being done on just the buggies or on truggies and sct too?
All of the above.
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:40 PM
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Picking one of these up soon, what do you recommend getting with it? My #1 choice was Tekin rx8gen2 1900kv, what are some other solid choices?? Also what servo? I currently run SCT, so not sure what I need for a real 1/8th...
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:44 PM
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Personally, I still prefer reaming the arm vs cut, but that's just me.
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by deceit
Picking one of these up soon, what do you recommend getting with it? My #1 choice was Tekin rx8gen2 1900kv, what are some other solid choices?? Also what servo? I currently run SCT, so not sure what I need for a real 1/8th...
Sounds like a 4S lipo in the 6500mah range balances the car well.

For electronics the main thing to me at least would be if you find you want matching electronics in the ET48, keep in mind the space you need when running a truggy sized motor. if sticking with the eb48, a variety of electronics will do the job. I run a different car but the Castle MM-x I have been enjoying with the SMC 1900kv motor.

For servo, the hitec lineup works well as it has a very long servo lead so you don't need an extension.
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
Sounds like a 4S lipo in the 6500mah range balances the car well.

For electronics the main thing to me at least would be if you find you want matching electronics in the ET48, keep in mind the space you need when running a truggy sized motor. if sticking with the eb48, a variety of electronics will do the job. I run a different car but the Castle MM-x I have been enjoying with the SMC 1900kv motor.

For servo, the hitec lineup works well as it has a very long servo lead so you don't need an extension.

Thanks, I'll definitely check those out. I was wondering why I saw a lot of 6500's in setups... Now that makes sense. That combo is way more affordable! I currently have a rx8gen2 and Tekin 4300 in my sct, so not looking to spending a ton atm if not needed.. lol
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by deceit
Thanks, I'll definitely check those out. I was wondering why I saw a lot of 6500's in setups... Now that makes sense. That combo is way more affordable! I currently have a rx8gen2 and Tekin 4300 in my sct, so not looking to spending a ton atm if not needed.. lol
you could see about buying the ESC to keep things the same and go with say the SMC motor to save some money.
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Old 08-10-2016, 07:35 PM
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Iv came across it once but can't seem to find it again, can someone point me to the rite page number for info on raising the rear diff mod.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
- If you're NOT using PT Brand oils, let me know what oils you are using. If possible, you want to switch to those oils so that you're on the same page as the rest of the team. PT oils are considerably thinner.
Hey Bob, why is this? CST is supposed to be an industry standard measure. It seems PTRC should remove their CST ratings if they really aren't using that scale, or perhaps adjust their ratings so that it aligns with their actual CST viscosity.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by goehm
Hey Bob, why is this? CST is supposed to be an industry standard measure. It seems PTRC should remove their CST ratings if they really aren't using that scale, or perhaps adjust their ratings so that it aligns with their actual CST viscosity.
I'm leaning towards their values are correct and the others aren't. PTRC oils are the same as Mugen, Core, and most of the oils you see from the EU manufacturers. The only ones that appear to not follow the same standard are AE and TLR.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:46 AM
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either way, we use the PTRC oils because that's what the rest of the team uses. It just makes it easier. I will say that my PT oils stay cleaner much longer.
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