219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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11-29-2015, 01:45 PM
#2657
This body in my opinion is really under rated in the way it handles on the trucks. Not only will it self right almost every time a roll over occurs, it also makes driving the truck easier for some strange reason. I know it must be subconscious, but it just seems like you can tell what is going on with the way the body rolls and leans making it easier to make quick corrections. I realize how dumb that sounds, but if you don't believe me you need to try this shell and find out for your self.
.Mine weighs 1/2 lb. My truck without a body is 5.45 lbs and with it the truck comes in at 5.95 lbs. I'm not sure what other body's weigh so I don't know if that's good, bad, or average.
11-29-2015, 04:56 PM
#2658
(quote)Mine weighs 1/2 lb. My truck without a body is 5.45 lbs and with it the truck comes in at 5.95 lbs. I'm not sure what other body's weigh so I don't know if that's good, bad, or average.[/QUOTE]
Proline flo-tek fusion came in at .485 lbs...not a whole lot different
only 6 grams!!
Interesting
Proline flo-tek fusion came in at .485 lbs...not a whole lot different
only 6 grams!!Interesting
11-29-2015, 07:18 PM
#2659
Anyone know if tekno sells a tuning kit like losi use to do for the 1.0 scte. This kit at this level of racing should have come with the alum pin holders,carbon towers and alum shock caps,can all this be bought together for a reasonable price?
That body looks really square on both ends,why do you feel like it rights itself more often than the stock body?
How many are using the hw4700 with success in this truck?
That body looks really square on both ends,why do you feel like it rights itself more often than the stock body?
How many are using the hw4700 with success in this truck?
11-30-2015, 06:45 AM
#2660
Tech Initiate
This is the kind of stuff that will be in the guide. The guide is getting close, we've had to go to the track a few times to confirm some setup theories and also figure out the best way to explain them. We've had to really break down what is happening to the car when a given setup is on there and more importantly when it's happening to make sure we don't give the wrong info.
11-30-2015, 04:20 PM
#2661
Tech Initiate
Hey Matt. What does moving the shocks in on the arms front and rear do. Also what does moving the shocks out on the towers do. The info you gave is golden. I have the old 410 but I have the new spindles and steering stops installed and like how it fixed my inside wheel flopping around. The anti-squat advice is great. I have the aluminum C block on order so I can get 1 degree of anti-squat. Not sure if the old truck can go 0. But with the short wheelbase the drive shafts going forward it has a nice amount of anti-squat. I run an inside clay track high bite. There are 180 turns that have jumps right after the turn so you have to power up the jumps and running little anti-squat made the truck jump much better off of those type of jumps. I do run RC8.2 springs Silver 4.3 front 3.5 rate rear. Truck dosent traction roll though still slides with those heavy springs was thinking of trying no sway bars or the lightest possible. We run Proline PRIME tires ss compund. All the other Tekno guys also run these rate springs but have you guys tried no sway bars? Thanks...
11-30-2015, 05:56 PM
#2662
Anyone know if tekno sells a tuning kit like losi use to do for the 1.0 scte. This kit at this level of racing should have come with the alum pin holders,carbon towers and alum shock caps,can all this be bought together for a reasonable price?
That body looks really square on both ends,why do you feel like it rights itself more often than the stock body?
How many are using the hw4700 with success in this truck?
That body looks really square on both ends,why do you feel like it rights itself more often than the stock body?
How many are using the hw4700 with success in this truck?
But like I said before in regard to handling and air borne maneuvers, the real trick with these bodies is knowing how to line them up more rearward so that the front bumper stay outside the grill, but just barely.
Once you get the body pin holes where you want them, then put a normal body back on (assuming you have that one set right) and measure from the top of the wheels to the bottom of the fenders for easy clearance reference. Put the 66 body back on and bring the body down to meet those clearances. Only then should you start trimming off the forward front fenders like I did in the pictures. Front body bumper is trimmed completely off.
As for the hobbywing 4700, that is a great motor. Hands down one of the best out there for this class. If you are running tighter indoor, you might want to go lower KV for a slight edge with punch out the corners and more efficiency, but honestly I have never felt under powered in any circumstance with mine on 15,16,and 17t pinions, track depending of course. You will want to keep the timing pretty much dialed out to 0, with a 3-4 punch. That is about the most well rounded power band with a 16t. Only come up in timing if your running open long sweeping tracks. If your blowing out with wheel spins, lower the punch and it will smooth right out. Don't go lower than 6500 75C packs if you plan to make it past a 8-10 minute mains.
Last edited by Josh L; 11-30-2015 at 06:46 PM.
11-30-2015, 07:04 PM
#2663
Hey Matt. What does moving the shocks in on the arms front and rear do. Also what does moving the shocks out on the towers do. The info you gave is golden. I have the old 410 but I have the new spindles and steering stops installed and like how it fixed my inside wheel flopping around. The anti-squat advice is great. I have the aluminum C block on order so I can get 1 degree of anti-squat. Not sure if the old truck can go 0. But with the short wheelbase the drive shafts going forward it has a nice amount of anti-squat. I run an inside clay track high bite. There are 180 turns that have jumps right after the turn so you have to power up the jumps and running little anti-squat made the truck jump much better off of those type of jumps. I do run RC8.2 springs Silver 4.3 front 3.5 rate rear. Truck dosent traction roll though still slides with those heavy springs was thinking of trying no sway bars or the lightest possible. We run Proline PRIME tires ss compund. All the other Tekno guys also run these rate springs but have you guys tried no sway bars? Thanks...
The opposite it true for the other way around. If your sliding around turns a bit, you can stand the shocks up a little in the front, to attempt to gain side bite like that, but you can also tweek these things many other ways as well. What is more important to you right now is not what the truck settings can do, but how your driving style is. You first have to know and rightly call yourself out on your good habits and bad alike.
If your a smooth driver and run off power through some of the turns, then you could majorly benefit from something as simple as adding ackerman to your steering by moving the drag link on the bell cranks. That will majorly improve your off power push tendencies and allow a smooth roll out. But if your a power on giver er hell sorta guy, then you would do better with less to no ackerman, as this will improve forward traction allowing the front to pull the truck into and around the turns with constant power or bliping the throttle through the turn. Another thing to consider is your roll center. You may need to lower or raise it, depending on how reactive you want the response. Everything you do to give you an edge somewhere will take it away from somewhere else. Its ultimately you that will have to decide on what is an acceptable loss, vs how well the gain improved the area you where previously struggling with. If you run faster and more consistent, then your obviously moving in the right direction. If not, back the setting back out and try to get the improvement else where.
12-01-2015, 03:23 AM
#2664
Hey Matt. What does moving the shocks in on the arms front and rear do. Also what does moving the shocks out on the towers do. The info you gave is golden. I have the old 410 but I have the new spindles and steering stops installed and like how it fixed my inside wheel flopping around. The anti-squat advice is great. I have the aluminum C block on order so I can get 1 degree of anti-squat. Not sure if the old truck can go 0. But with the short wheelbase the drive shafts going forward it has a nice amount of anti-squat. I run an inside clay track high bite. There are 180 turns that have jumps right after the turn so you have to power up the jumps and running little anti-squat made the truck jump much better off of those type of jumps. I do run RC8.2 springs Silver 4.3 front 3.5 rate rear. Truck dosent traction roll though still slides with those heavy springs was thinking of trying no sway bars or the lightest possible. We run Proline PRIME tires ss compund. All the other Tekno guys also run these rate springs but have you guys tried no sway bars? Thanks...
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...e0527d250da441
12-01-2015, 03:57 AM
#2665
Is anyone running the Daniel Lewis setup? I was thinking about trying it But have a few questions.
The cst seems high, especialy 800 in the front?
Also 0 antisquat and 4 rear toe!?
All the talk of adding washers to the spindle epa but he has 0 ???
So I guess I want to make sure it was correct when added to the Tekno web site and if so how do you guys like it???
The cst seems high, especialy 800 in the front?
Also 0 antisquat and 4 rear toe!?
All the talk of adding washers to the spindle epa but he has 0 ???
So I guess I want to make sure it was correct when added to the Tekno web site and if so how do you guys like it???
12-01-2015, 05:34 AM
#2666
Tech Initiate
Taz, download this PDF from Hudy. It does a pretty good job of explaining what different changes do, might help you out with your changes.
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...e0527d250da441
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...e0527d250da441
12-01-2015, 11:22 AM
#2667
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
Is anyone running the Daniel Lewis setup? I was thinking about trying it But have a few questions.
The cst seems high, especialy 800 in the front?
Also 0 antisquat and 4 rear toe!?
All the talk of adding washers to the spindle epa but he has 0 ???
So I guess I want to make sure it was correct when added to the Tekno web site and if so how do you guys like it???
The cst seems high, especialy 800 in the front?
Also 0 antisquat and 4 rear toe!?
All the talk of adding washers to the spindle epa but he has 0 ???
So I guess I want to make sure it was correct when added to the Tekno web site and if so how do you guys like it???
12-02-2015, 08:34 PM
#2669
12-02-2015, 09:51 PM
#2670
The top is tall and sorta rounded on the corners, usually enough to allow inertial energy from a roll to flip right back to it's wheels. Obviously you try not to roll, but if and when you do it's sorta cool to not need a turn over man half as much as one would with the typical bodies.
But like I said before in regard to handling and air borne maneuvers, the real trick with these bodies is knowing how to line them up more rearward so that the front bumper stay outside the grill, but just barely.
Once you get the body pin holes where you want them, then put a normal body back on (assuming you have that one set right) and measure from the top of the wheels to the bottom of the fenders for easy clearance reference. Put the 66 body back on and bring the body down to meet those clearances. Only then should you start trimming off the forward front fenders like I did in the pictures. Front body bumper is trimmed completely off.
As for the hobbywing 4700, that is a great motor. Hands down one of the best out there for this class. If you are running tighter indoor, you might want to go lower KV for a slight edge with punch out the corners and more efficiency, but honestly I have never felt under powered in any circumstance with mine on 15,16,and 17t pinions, track depending of course. You will want to keep the timing pretty much dialed out to 0, with a 3-4 punch. That is about the most well rounded power band with a 16t. Only come up in timing if your running open long sweeping tracks. If your blowing out with wheel spins, lower the punch and it will smooth right out. Don't go lower than 6500 75C packs if you plan to make it past a 8-10 minute mains.
But like I said before in regard to handling and air borne maneuvers, the real trick with these bodies is knowing how to line them up more rearward so that the front bumper stay outside the grill, but just barely.
Once you get the body pin holes where you want them, then put a normal body back on (assuming you have that one set right) and measure from the top of the wheels to the bottom of the fenders for easy clearance reference. Put the 66 body back on and bring the body down to meet those clearances. Only then should you start trimming off the forward front fenders like I did in the pictures. Front body bumper is trimmed completely off.
As for the hobbywing 4700, that is a great motor. Hands down one of the best out there for this class. If you are running tighter indoor, you might want to go lower KV for a slight edge with punch out the corners and more efficiency, but honestly I have never felt under powered in any circumstance with mine on 15,16,and 17t pinions, track depending of course. You will want to keep the timing pretty much dialed out to 0, with a 3-4 punch. That is about the most well rounded power band with a 16t. Only come up in timing if your running open long sweeping tracks. If your blowing out with wheel spins, lower the punch and it will smooth right out. Don't go lower than 6500 75C packs if you plan to make it past a 8-10 minute mains.
I took the front end apart,couldnt find anything wrong,bearings all good,diff fluid looked good,maybe possibly a roughed up shim,one each on either side of diff,added some thicker fluid,trying 10k. passenger side wheel was still swelling harder on accel and even a wot. Held passenger wheel and gave it mid throttle for 5 min or so and it seemed to balance out a lil better after that.not sure whats causing that
Last edited by ResultsRC; 12-02-2015 at 10:04 PM.