219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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12-02-2015, 10:09 PM
#2671
Same as for the trucks. They are both fixed up real good with most of the goods, but it's going to come down to preference.
Have a close look at those inverted shocks on that Losi...
12-03-2015, 12:19 AM
#2672
im running it in E light form right now,the 4700 was causing me some issues untill i put a fan on it,soldered the bolts on the motor from the back and the front,terrible design to remove motor with tiny screws that wont stay tight. geared it down to 13 and cut some big holes in the body,now it seems much better. Im using a rx8 with no timing,but im not sure how to set it to match punch of 4 from hw esc. Im running epa at 65% and throttle curve flat.
I took the front end apart,couldnt find anything wrong,bearings all good,diff fluid looked good,maybe possibly a roughed up shim,one each on either side of diff,added some thicker fluid,trying 10k. passenger side wheel was still swelling harder on accel and even a wot. Held passenger wheel and gave it mid throttle for 5 min or so and it seemed to balance out a lil better after that.not sure whats causing that
I took the front end apart,couldnt find anything wrong,bearings all good,diff fluid looked good,maybe possibly a roughed up shim,one each on either side of diff,added some thicker fluid,trying 10k. passenger side wheel was still swelling harder on accel and even a wot. Held passenger wheel and gave it mid throttle for 5 min or so and it seemed to balance out a lil better after that.not sure whats causing that
For the RX8, try about 50 for current limit, 0 timing, and full epa. You shouldn't need to turn down your speed to keep cool. For a medium sized track I'd still run a 16 on there, though I've done 15 on small tracks once or twice when there was lots of traction. For keeping the motor cool, the biggest thing is to open up the scoop on the stock body. It'll actually channel air down onto the motor to cool it. That being said, short course electronics do get hot in eBuggy Lite, so a good fan is a great thing.
12-03-2015, 09:06 AM
#2673
ive had some luck with holding one wheel when a bearing is sligthly binding,but ive never had to do that to break in a diff before,I did switch wheels and got same result. Im guessing the tolerances on the diff gears are binding slightly. it did help a bit just adding 10 k fluid.
I cut a bunch holes in body and it did help some,i added a castle fan that im not very impressed with,The air has no where to go in the shroud,so i raised it with some 2 sided tape and drilled some holes in the lower shroud. The 4700 motor will not stay cool with a 15 or 16 pinion. Ill try lowing the current to 50 from 65% I didnt mean epa in the above post. Everyone has switched to the hw 4000 motor on this track with heavy trucks. I will say it is very fast with a 13 though and does work,but in practice running over 10 min it gets up in the 180s. I like to motor and gear so that you can run till the lipo hits lvc and still not be overly hot,I like most people get alot more practive track time than race time.
I cut a bunch holes in body and it did help some,i added a castle fan that im not very impressed with,The air has no where to go in the shroud,so i raised it with some 2 sided tape and drilled some holes in the lower shroud. The 4700 motor will not stay cool with a 15 or 16 pinion. Ill try lowing the current to 50 from 65% I didnt mean epa in the above post. Everyone has switched to the hw 4000 motor on this track with heavy trucks. I will say it is very fast with a 13 though and does work,but in practice running over 10 min it gets up in the 180s. I like to motor and gear so that you can run till the lipo hits lvc and still not be overly hot,I like most people get alot more practive track time than race time.
Last edited by ResultsRC; 12-03-2015 at 09:29 AM.
12-03-2015, 09:35 AM
#2674
anyone have a better fan setup reccomdation,this one doesnt flow much even modified
12-03-2015, 03:01 PM
#2675
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
12-03-2015, 07:45 PM
#2676
thats a nice looking fan kit,twice as big as most
tried it out tonight with the thicker front diff oil at 10k,that some of the new setups are reccomending,didnt really like it that much,seemed like it took away on power steering to much.
tried it out tonight with the thicker front diff oil at 10k,that some of the new setups are reccomending,didnt really like it that much,seemed like it took away on power steering to much.
12-03-2015, 08:38 PM
#2678
Yeah, she asked me to explain the features of each and by the end of the discussion decided to go with the M12S. I will get plenty of real time testing on them all however to see which suits my taste. I plan to get the Futaba 4PX-R as soon as it releases as well.
Same as for the trucks. They are both fixed up real good with most of the goods, but it's going to come down to preference.
Have a close look at those inverted shocks on that Losi...
Same as for the trucks. They are both fixed up real good with most of the goods, but it's going to come down to preference.
Have a close look at those inverted shocks on that Losi...
12-03-2015, 11:54 PM
#2679
Tech Apprentice
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Germany near famous clay track of RCRT Duisburg
Posts: 63
Threads on pushrods wrong way
Servicing my car these days, i changed some rod ends. Reminding my build in April, i recognized that the threads on the pushrods are the wrong way. Or maybe just the little mark, that signs the left thread is on the wrong side.
While bilding the truck i thought: "depends on the non metric system, maybe they mark the right tread" (I learned: standard thread is not marked, left thread is marked)
But in the pits this year, it often happened that i chosed the wrong way to turn the pushrods, so this becoms a little bit anoying.
Does anyone had the same problem with his kit?
While bilding the truck i thought: "depends on the non metric system, maybe they mark the right tread" (I learned: standard thread is not marked, left thread is marked)
But in the pits this year, it often happened that i chosed the wrong way to turn the pushrods, so this becoms a little bit anoying.
Does anyone had the same problem with his kit?
12-04-2015, 05:09 AM
#2680
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Servicing my car these days, i changed some rod ends. Reminding my build in April, i recognized that the threads on the pushrods are the wrong way. Or maybe just the little mark, that signs the left thread is on the wrong side.
While bilding the truck i thought: "depends on the non metric system, maybe they mark the right tread" (I learned: standard thread is not marked, left thread is marked)
But in the pits this year, it often happened that i chosed the wrong way to turn the pushrods, so this becoms a little bit anoying.
Does anyone had the same problem with his kit?
While bilding the truck i thought: "depends on the non metric system, maybe they mark the right tread" (I learned: standard thread is not marked, left thread is marked)
But in the pits this year, it often happened that i chosed the wrong way to turn the pushrods, so this becoms a little bit anoying.
Does anyone had the same problem with his kit?
Are you saying you have all the marks on your rods pointing towards the same side of the truck (left or right), but rotating the rod towards the front of the car shortens some of the links, but lenghtens the other ones?
12-04-2015, 05:28 AM
#2681
12-04-2015, 06:05 AM
#2682
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Servicing my car these days, i changed some rod ends. Reminding my build in April, i recognized that the threads on the pushrods are the wrong way. Or maybe just the little mark, that signs the left thread is on the wrong side.
While bilding the truck i thought: "depends on the non metric system, maybe they mark the right tread" (I learned: standard thread is not marked, left thread is marked)
But in the pits this year, it often happened that i chosed the wrong way to turn the pushrods, so this becoms a little bit anoying.
Does anyone had the same problem with his kit?
While bilding the truck i thought: "depends on the non metric system, maybe they mark the right tread" (I learned: standard thread is not marked, left thread is marked)
But in the pits this year, it often happened that i chosed the wrong way to turn the pushrods, so this becoms a little bit anoying.
Does anyone had the same problem with his kit?
On mine, I have the mark point to the left side of the truck on all six rods/turnbuckle. Rotating the rods towards the front of the car shortens the links. Rotating the rods toward the rear lenghtens the links.
Are you saying you have all the marks on your rods pointing towards the same side of the truck (left or right), but rotating the rod towards the front of the car shortens some of the links, but lenghtens the other ones?
Are you saying you have all the marks on your rods pointing towards the same side of the truck (left or right), but rotating the rod towards the front of the car shortens some of the links, but lenghtens the other ones?
12-04-2015, 07:57 AM
#2684
i can finish a race with the fan unplugged, im running longer in practice and it eases the load and heat on the elecs. 4700kv down to a 13 pin will run good bit over 10 min in practice,its as fast as i need to go on this size track