219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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09-21-2015, 02:15 PM
#2236
Forgot to mention that I was running 8 hole delrin pistons because that was what I had in my box. With 450f and 350r oils I'll try higher oils with weaker springs and see what happens. I also have some csi blues in my box I'd like to try.
And yes it was a crazy handful to drive.
And yes it was a crazy handful to drive.
09-21-2015, 02:25 PM
#2237
Thanks for the help I do realize that 30mm is way too high for the ride height. I cannot get any lower in the front. I'm going to try to turn the rod ends in some more but I don't expect to really gain much.
I was just trying different combination to see if I could eliminate the nose down.
I was just trying different combination to see if I could eliminate the nose down.
09-21-2015, 03:09 PM
#2238
Built with the bladders. I'll make the changes and report back after racing this weekend.
09-21-2015, 03:10 PM
#2239
Forgot to mention that I was running 8 hole delrin pistons because that was what I had in my box. With 450f and 350r oils I'll try higher oils with weaker springs and see what happens. I also have some csi blues in my box I'd like to try.
And yes it was a crazy handful to drive.
And yes it was a crazy handful to drive.
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...Lewis_SDRC.pdf
On the ride height issue you might make sure the upper shock mount nut on the shock side isn't all the way tightened down, I've seen it hold the shock both up and down in the stroke if the shock can't move freely. Also check to make sure the grub screws in the sway bar pivots aren't to tight causing it to act more like a torsion bar than a sway bar.
Last edited by Tijuana_Taxi; 09-21-2015 at 03:27 PM.
09-21-2015, 03:53 PM
#2240
Tech Regular
You are right. There are a number of things that can affect it. My suspension was working very well but still had nose dive issues. Someone on here suggested reducing anti squat and it did wonders for my truck.
09-21-2015, 04:58 PM
#2241
Thanks for the help I do realize that 30mm is way too high for the ride height. I cannot get any lower in the front. I'm going to try to turn the rod ends in some more but I don't expect to really gain much.
I was just trying different combination to see if I could eliminate the nose down.
I was just trying different combination to see if I could eliminate the nose down.
09-22-2015, 03:58 PM
#2242
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Spindles and C-hubs
The other .3 cars have 4 set screws to hold the screws in place that connect the spindles to the c-hub and the c-hub to the a-arm. I wonder if it would hurt to drill holes in the same locations on the 410.3? I have a screw on the a-arm/c-hub that keeps backing out.
09-22-2015, 04:13 PM
#2243
The springs will break in and settle with use. I wouldn't drill any holes, you'll weekend the a arm. Just put a dab of silicon RTV on the threads or use a tiny bit of threadlock.
09-22-2015, 04:16 PM
#2244
Also running heavier oil in the rear, try running 37.5 rear and 35 front it will help the nose down issue a ton.
09-22-2015, 04:36 PM
#2245
OK, I am not sure where this post is in this thread but i'll put it here again because checking the shock measurements fixed my ride height problems with the stock springs with little to no run time on them.
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I posted this on the SC threads but forgot to put it here --
So I recently rebuilt my shocks and while doing that I came up with some more theories as to why getting the correct ride height can be difficult. I am simply going to list everything I can think of - and yes, we realize that some of our springs are a little longer than is optimal for some situations.
1. This is what I think might be getting a lot of people. Make sure your shock shaft is completely screwed into the shock end. If you measure your completed shocks the front should be no longer than 104.75mm and the rear no longer than 120.75mm. That's eye to eye measurement. From the bottom of the shock guide to the top of the shock end should be 30.25mm in the front and 38.25mm in the rear. The way I like to check the depth without calipers is by continuing to tighten the shock end in until the ball no longer spins freely than back it off about a quarter turn or until it's free again.
2. Make sure you're measuring from the flat part of the chassis in the front, not the kick-up part.
3. The less rebound you build your shocks with the lower you can get your ride height.
4. This has been stated already but it bears repeating - all springs need some use to settle. The more you run your springs (up to a point of course) the lower your ride height can be.
5. Make sure that the spring perch is under the shock boot. Our old shock boots used to go through the perch, that is not the case with the new ones.
6. If you try all of those and still have problems, try shaving the plastic collars down, that's good for ~2mm.
That's all I can think of right now, if anyone else has any tips or ideas, please post them up.
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I posted this on the SC threads but forgot to put it here --
So I recently rebuilt my shocks and while doing that I came up with some more theories as to why getting the correct ride height can be difficult. I am simply going to list everything I can think of - and yes, we realize that some of our springs are a little longer than is optimal for some situations.
1. This is what I think might be getting a lot of people. Make sure your shock shaft is completely screwed into the shock end. If you measure your completed shocks the front should be no longer than 104.75mm and the rear no longer than 120.75mm. That's eye to eye measurement. From the bottom of the shock guide to the top of the shock end should be 30.25mm in the front and 38.25mm in the rear. The way I like to check the depth without calipers is by continuing to tighten the shock end in until the ball no longer spins freely than back it off about a quarter turn or until it's free again.
2. Make sure you're measuring from the flat part of the chassis in the front, not the kick-up part.
3. The less rebound you build your shocks with the lower you can get your ride height.
4. This has been stated already but it bears repeating - all springs need some use to settle. The more you run your springs (up to a point of course) the lower your ride height can be.
5. Make sure that the spring perch is under the shock boot. Our old shock boots used to go through the perch, that is not the case with the new ones.
6. If you try all of those and still have problems, try shaving the plastic collars down, that's good for ~2mm.
That's all I can think of right now, if anyone else has any tips or ideas, please post them up.
09-22-2015, 05:06 PM
#2246
Here's a couple of videos of my 410.3 testing out some track adjustments.
The first one is in slo mo
The second one has no slo mo
The first one is in slo mo
| + YouTube Video | |
The second one has no slo mo
| + YouTube Video | |
09-22-2015, 05:26 PM
#2247
Tech Regular
I've heard of people doing that. Since I changed the anti squat I've had no issues. I'm extremely happy with how my truck is set up. The only thing that will hold it back is the driver. Lol
09-23-2015, 04:37 AM
#2248
If you build your shocks wrong, and leave a shit ton of pressure inside without bleeding them properly, then yes..
That could contribute to a high ride height.
You MUST have the battery installed and body ON when measuring ride height.
I built 2 kits so far. They both Sat high in front at first. The springs will settle after a few days and a few runs. Most people ditch the green fronts anyway at first and go to Pink or Black... Most people also ditch the black Rears and go to Green.
Either way... Springs settle. I am running Yellow Rears, Green Fronts at the moment. And I can get 25mm easy if I wanted. Because my springs are broken in.
That could contribute to a high ride height.
You MUST have the battery installed and body ON when measuring ride height.
I built 2 kits so far. They both Sat high in front at first. The springs will settle after a few days and a few runs. Most people ditch the green fronts anyway at first and go to Pink or Black... Most people also ditch the black Rears and go to Green.
Either way... Springs settle. I am running Yellow Rears, Green Fronts at the moment. And I can get 25mm easy if I wanted. Because my springs are broken in.
09-23-2015, 02:09 PM
#2249
For the guys running shorter springs on their sct410 to get a low ride height. What brand of springs are you using? How long are they?
09-23-2015, 02:42 PM
#2250
You don't need shorter springs. The Tekno ones are fine for any ride height from 24-30