I started with a rear motor B5, then got a B5M, then converted to rear motor car to mid motor using the XFactory chassis. You are going to love the XFactory chassis car!

Two goods choices to add to your tuning bucket.

As always though these items make up only part of your set up. Depends on track set up, straight length, corners, grip etc. Then it also depends on how often you change your tires, steering sensitivity etc.

I would start with 3k Diff Oil but also buy a 8K then swap and see for yourself how the car reacts on your track with your set up.

I run an additional 40g in the front of my car on top of the brass bulk head but what works for me may not work for you and your driving style.

Have fun testing!:tire:

Besides the weight difference in both rotating mass and and overall weight, what difference in driving dynamic does it offer? Does removing 1 gear from the transmission mean have to change motor rotation?

No, you do not need to change motor rotation. The gearbox is already flipped from left and right.

Thanks for the replies.

I was able to free up some money and so far I have bought the following:

Servo: Bluebird BMS-616DMG+HS
ESC: HobbyKing X-Car 120A (same as Hobbywing V2.1)
Motor: TrackStar 8.5T (4620kV) Sensored

I also bought the USB programing adapter for the ESC from Hobbyking and the LCD Hobbywing programing box from eBay.

At the end of the week I'll probably go with the Nano-Tech Ultimate 4600mAh 2S battery.

Need the new Kashima shocks put into an FT kit so I can buy a new kit to refresh a few cars.

switched to 1.6 pistons in the rear and the car got better. i'm wondering how would switching to 3x1.4mm pistons affect the handling? i'm running 32.5 up front with white springs and 30 wt in the rear with white springs. i'd like to try 3x1.4 all around and i don't know to try flat or tapered. thanks

Finally made the switch
 

Well, I finally retired the ole RB5 and RT5. Ordered a new B5M Factory Lite kit, alum AE Hubs, alum AE steering rack and alum AE shock caps. It'll all be here Thurs. T5M coming soon!

4 gear makes the rear of the car squat in the rear under acceleration. 3 gear makes the weight push on the front of the car. 3 gear flips the motor to the other side, takes an idler out. Less rotating mass, more acceleration.

Team Durango explained it really good here, using RM and MM, 3 & 4 gear.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...gurationGuide/

I'm sure that I'm going to catch a lot of heat for suggesting that I liked my cars better with the 4 gear but I do/did and I'm putting one together to compare to my Lites. I don't like the feel of a lightweight car with a 3 gear. They just don't seem to grip the track as well.

Which chassis?

I'm still BLOWN away at the SLRC's ability to create traction when under power. This is with all of the crossbars cut, and the mip transmission.

Anyone have experience running these packs 2s 3800 Fantom racing packs, super light

https://www.fantomracing.com/proddet...?prod=FAN26165

I just ordered one so I hope to soon. I'll update once I've had a chance to run it.

Sure, for what type of racing, though?

My son had the 3400 and not bad, have not tried the new ones. I want that reedy 3900. We race stock.