paintz2007

Why hasn't RPM jumped on arms for this car? I'm a fairly new racer, stock last winter and 4w mod for the second half of the season and it isn't the least bit forgiving if you land crossed up. I have done things to my B5r (stock) that at the same speed in the 22-4 I think would have wasted the whole chassis and the B5 just takes it.

1badgoat

If your b5 and your 22-4 are traveling at the same speed, the 22-4 has more energy, because it has more mass. This extra energy has to be dissipated somewhere.

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

That sounds like an excellent question for RPM.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

What tricks have you guys used for a little more steering? Mine is good when the grip is up, but I drove a xray xb4 and it had more which I liked.

I'm sure new tires would solve most of my problem but not sure if there's something else i'm overlooking.

Otherwise happy with this car still.

RandyJones

iTrader: (26)

Just don't see a durability issue compared to the AE car. A lot of the AE guys around here tell us the opposite! Tyler drove his 22-4 all winter like an ebuggy and finally broke both front arms at different races. Car totally parts other than aluminum servo on the steering servo. This was by far the most durable car around all last winter. His car is flat wore out now from all the racing. Same belts and pulleys all season too.

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

2wd and 4wd cars are COMPLETELY different, and need to have a much different expectation of durability. Due to having driveshafts in the front, some of the suspensions HAS to be designed differently, and the front end only has 10* of kick up. A 2wd car has at least 20*, most have 25* or 30*. Kick-up allows the arms to travel back more on impact and saves a lot of parts. Also, since a 4wd car is MUCH heavier, it has much more inertia on impact thus it collides at a MUCH higher force. More force, and less kick will break more often than the other way around - it's just physics.

I think you'll find that 4wd car to 4wd car, the 22-4 stacks up pretty well in the durability category.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

I have the Exotek front brace and that helps a lot.

Ive only broken an arm when hitting a pipe at full speed and when someone crashed into my arm coming off a jump.


Belive you me I've tumbled here lol.

If it was beefier around the hinge pins they would not break at all.

99windy

iTrader: (1)

Guys,

Has anyone tried theRC Shox Ctr Diff and roller front pulley on there 22-4? if so what sort of surface? and what was your opinion?

Have got them installed in my car ready for its first run with them in and a refreshed car. First run will be on astrofurf, i am hoping these parts will help the car lots.

Any input is appreciated.

Cheers

Roken

Yeah I would like to know about also, but on indoor clay. Thanks

1badgoat

I used the center diff for a little while, but took it out recently. The spur gear teeth were not machined right, and it was a bit loud. I was always concerned that it would get stripped out.

G-rem

iTrader: (2)

Hi there,

I have a small question about the hinge pins of the 22-4:

- could you please tell me the length and the diameter of the threaded hinge pin (part no.: TLR234037)

I guess the threads are 3mm (M3)?

Thanks a lot for your help,
Regards,
G-rem

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Inner hinge pins are 3.5mm outer hinge pins are 3mm. I don't have the length info handy

Apl Hed

iTrader: (32)

Can somebody PM me of where I can get a complete set of Aluminum belt pulleys for my 22-4?? I love this car but I hate putting belts and pulleys in it every 10 races. Thx

dbracn

iTrader: (28)

Frank,
Could you post your current setup? i noticed you said you have been running 1.7 x2 pistons on the rear. If you change from stock to these, did you change oil or spring rate to keep the same feel? Also with this setup do you still run the 1.7 x2 in the front as well?

slowguy2012

iTrader: (5)

when will the 12* caster blocks be available? saw them on a few team cars last winter and thought we would have them by now. thanks