Audio

That's really strange.. Maybe the anodized hubs and anodized wheel hexes are putting more stress on the drive shaft?

Looking at my 22-4 if the wheel isn't seated properly some pressure could be applied to the thread of the drive shaft instead of the un-threaded portion of the drive shaft. Nothing really sits on the threaded portion of the drive shaft, except for the nut. So if only the threaded portion snapped off that could explain your issue.

Maybe there was some horizontal pressure from the roll applied to the nut, and instead of the nut coming loose the whole drive shaft snapped off.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I thought mine was cause I was running plastic hexs. But the kit is heavy so it could be a weak point or a fluke crash. Mine broke from a side roll over in a high speed roll over. Be sure to lock tight. I have had my rear nuts work loose and that may be the reason plus the weight of the kit when mine broke.

Carranza76

iTrader: (1)

I broke two of them on them!!!

My buddy who works for Horizon broke one also.

Not very happy about the $45 dollar cost for replacing these when i feel they shouldn't have broke.

I broke mine coming off a jump and landing a bit sideways. both times.

My buddy broke his going over a rhythm section that made his rear end swing out a bit and snap.

Also broke another hinge pin, I was told to take the set screws out and not use them which i did.

The front bumper will hold the hinge pins in place.

Outtacontrol58

iTrader: (92)

Hey I have a brand new 22-4 that was put together by a Pro except for the shocks. If anyone is interested let me know (PM). I bought two of them and only need one. These things are great!

mark-rc

ASAP! Hopefully.

Here in the UK, on high grip carpet or Astro Turf, the ball diff's are struggling! I took 40 minutes bedding the diff's in, and when done, they were silky smooth. But one meeting on high grip carpet and the rear diff is needing a rebuild already! And before anyone says I didn't brake them in properly, well I did. I followed the TLR 22 running in video.

The power of today's Motors and batteries are to much for the ball diff, when used on high to very high grip tracks.

Geared diff's will also make the car feel more alive and faster.

So please, please ,please TLR, give us Geared diff's!

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I have not fully looked into the issue of gear diffs and I am just a team driver but I would think to get gear diffs in this car they may need to come up with new tunnel covers to widen area where the diffs go to make gear diffs fit in this car. They made the tranny case wide enough in 2wd cars but the 22-4 kind of goes back to the XX/XXX width diff bearing spacing and they had to release a wider trans case to put a gear diff in that car.

Not saying it will not happen but you will need to change a few things to make this happen as I see it.

Mystic

iTrader: (5)

I know it has been mentioned several times before about the hinge pins, but I am curious if there are any work arounds yet ? I ran my 22-4 this past weekend for the 2nd time... Spent the day out saturday just practicing and working on the set-up for the race sunday... Ran my race sunday, first qualifier went smooth - consistent lap times the car felt amazingly predicatable... The 2nd qualifier I ended up driving the front right tire off the rim so that ended my run. Upon inspecting the car, I noticed my Left front hinge pin was broken off inside the arm... I grabbed the hinge pins out of my 22 that I was not running just to make the mains. My question is, am I doing something wrong here ? I should not be breaking these high strength steel pins this easily... I know I am a new driver to this class, however on my 4 other Losi vehicles, I have driven far worse then this one and had 0 issues. Is it possible I am putting the set screw in to far and causing to much stress on the pins ? Any suggestions please. At $20.00 a bag just to get 2 hinge pins is not making sense. Any plans to sell JUST hinge pins without needeing to buy the rest ?

Mystic

iTrader: (5)

The first arm / pin I broke I did not notice which happened first. The arm broke on the chasis side fron of the arm. The pin broke right in the middle. The second time the pin broke only. Not the arm. Again left side front and at the thinned section in the middle for the grub screw. I was checking the car after I drove the right front tire off the rim and found the left hinge pin broken. I am thinking there might be something going on with the grub scre but not 100% sure on this. My ambient temperature this past weekend was roughly 80 degrees F

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I will try and see if I can remember to post a picture later tonight. I have solder posts toward the motor. I am running the fan. I recommend trying to wire up the speedo and put the fan on the ESC before you put it in the car.

I have my battery wires routed a little differnt then most but it is working well for me.

It all fits in there nicely. No real space issues. I have seen it done a few different ways.

Beau S

iTrader: (2)

After seeing how well Evans did at EOS w/xxx4, I don't really see how ball diffs don't work for carpet...

its funny, 2yrs ago, everyone thought gear diffs belong only in RTR cars, & mm buggies were worthless. hmmm..

Dr. Evil

iTrader: (12)

Hmmm. Cab forward vs stock.

Someone mentioned some time ago cab forward was ugly. Well, I think cab forward works on 1/8th scale cars/trucks, but, not sure if I like them on 10th scale. The angle of the cab looks kinda funny.

I don't like the stock body as it makes the buggy look too low and too long.

Does anyone have /seen other bodies that are not so steeply raked on the font cab?? Or, is there a body similar to the hot weather xx4 body??

Thanks

Mystic

iTrader: (5)

I personally like the look and feel of cab forward bodies on both of my buggies... My 1/8th and my 1/10th. Once I get my hands on a cab forward for my 22-4 It will fit right into my fleet of cab forward vehicles

canbarelyhover

iTrader: (3)

Current workarounds mentioned a few pages back:
1) leave set screw out and let bumper keep it in
2) use shock shafts and locknuts/e-clips

For those using the old 22 TiN hinge pins. How are they holding up? Are you using the set screws with it?

Mystic

iTrader: (5)

I put the set screw back in when I put my 22 hinge pins in ( gold coated ones ) and they held up for the main.... But that was only 1 run.... I don't see my bumper keeping the pins in, so I wont leave the screw out unless I have bolted them in. I will investigate further with the shock shaft idea though.

Laker67

iTrader: (69)

I would bet you could make a hot weather body work. It seems that the 22-4 body would work on the XX-4. I saw a picture of that in the XX4 forum.