Hot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
#9196
#9197
Tech Adept
FYI....kyosho ball studs are same size as HB....in case your having trouble finding some
#9200
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
loose track setup
I searched a lot of setup sheets but have not found one for a very loose track. The track I run on is hard packed but usually dusty making it very difficult to get forward traction and keeping the car straight. It is like I am driving a 2 wheel drive car. I am currently running 15/100/5 diff fluids and pretty much the stock shorty setup. Any suggestions on how I can get the front of the car to work harder?
#9201
I searched a lot of setup sheets but have not found one for a very loose track. The track I run on is hard packed but usually dusty making it very difficult to get forward traction and keeping the car straight. It is like I am driving a 2 wheel drive car. I am currently running 15/100/5 diff fluids and pretty much the stock shorty setup. Any suggestions on how I can get the front of the car to work harder?
#9202
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Here's the track I ran at last week for first time outdoors with the D413. My car has the original Reedy setup still on it, with HB Red springs front 40wt Losi and HB Gold springs rear with 35wt Losi, running 7-100-5 for the diffs. I also run the 2x1.6 pistons. So far for this track the car felt planted and really liked Impacts and Chainlinks for tires.
Watch "Shay's Rc Park practice session" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/fUn6Z9m9jOk
Watch "Shay's Rc Park practice session" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/fUn6Z9m9jOk
Last edited by snwchris; 05-21-2015 at 11:55 AM.
#9203
I searched a lot of setup sheets but have not found one for a very loose track. The track I run on is hard packed but usually dusty making it very difficult to get forward traction and keeping the car straight. It is like I am driving a 2 wheel drive car. I am currently running 15/100/5 diff fluids and pretty much the stock shorty setup. Any suggestions on how I can get the front of the car to work harder?
Next thing I would change is go to ty's gunsmoke setup
From there change the front upper link to the inside hole "long" and move the battery to the far back spot. other then that the car should be really close. also to thick of front diff can settle the car but also give you more on power steering which can be hard to drive on a loose track so maybe go to 10k. no front sway bar either and copper in the rear.
#9204
Team Tekin
iTrader: (18)
I searched a lot of setup sheets but have not found one for a very loose track. The track I run on is hard packed but usually dusty making it very difficult to get forward traction and keeping the car straight. It is like I am driving a 2 wheel drive car. I am currently running 15/100/5 diff fluids and pretty much the stock shorty setup. Any suggestions on how I can get the front of the car to work harder?
#9205
Wouldn't it be the opposite? You would want to lock up the center diff more so you'd want to go to a heavier oil? This would help keep the front wheels from unloading to easily and "diffing" out.
When the oil is too lite in the center diff the power gets transferred to the path of least resistance which is typically the front wheels under acceleration causing them to just spin. This sounds like you're making the front work more but what you're really doing is causing power to be transferred to where there is no traction.
When the oil is too lite in the center diff the power gets transferred to the path of least resistance which is typically the front wheels under acceleration causing them to just spin. This sounds like you're making the front work more but what you're really doing is causing power to be transferred to where there is no traction.
#9206
Team Tekin
iTrader: (18)
Wouldn't it be the opposite? You would want to lock up the center diff more so you'd want to go to a heavier oil? This would help keep the front wheels from unloading to easily and "diffing" out.
When the oil is too lite in the center diff the power gets transferred to the path of least resistance which is typically the front wheels under acceleration causing them to just spin. This sounds like you're making the front work more but what you're really doing is causing power to be transferred to where there is no traction.
When the oil is too lite in the center diff the power gets transferred to the path of least resistance which is typically the front wheels under acceleration causing them to just spin. This sounds like you're making the front work more but what you're really doing is causing power to be transferred to where there is no traction.
The car will be harder to drive on a slippery track with thicker fluid.
Example:
Tessmann Worlds setup (Sugar Track/Super High Bite): 300k Center oil
Tessmann OCRC setup (Indoor clay Medium/High Bite) 100k Center Oil
#9207
FYI I changed his 2015 Ready race set up just a tad for this layout.
2 mm of limiters in the rear shocks and 1 degree of anti squat to keep the back end from coming around off power on the sweeper/roller after the straight.
I use Gold Dirt Webs front and rear with AKA foams.
#9208
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Wouldn't it be the opposite? You would want to lock up the center diff more so you'd want to go to a heavier oil? This would help keep the front wheels from unloading to easily and "diffing" out.
When the oil is too lite in the center diff the power gets transferred to the path of least resistance which is typically the front wheels under acceleration causing them to just spin. This sounds like you're making the front work more but what you're really doing is causing power to be transferred to where there is no traction.
When the oil is too lite in the center diff the power gets transferred to the path of least resistance which is typically the front wheels under acceleration causing them to just spin. This sounds like you're making the front work more but what you're really doing is causing power to be transferred to where there is no traction.
#9209
Second...You're correct, seems in general that the looser the track the lighter the oil, however it comes down to an acceleration vs driveability thing on loose tracks. Thicker oil increases acceleration overall so the OP might be hunting for something more than just the center diff.
Here's what I have from the googles
Originally Posted by thegoogles
Center
Thinner
• Front wheels unload more during acceleration
• Decreases on-power steering (reduces oversteer)
• Easier to drive on rough tracks
• If a high-power engine is used you could waste too
much power and sometime “cook” the oil in the center
differential because it “overloads”
• More off-power steering
Thicker
• More all-wheel drive effect
• Better acceleration
• Increases on-power steering (reduces understeer)
• Better suited on high-bite, smooth tracks
• Car can be more nervous to drive especially if a high
power engine is used - you might need to be smooth on
the throttle
Thinner
• Front wheels unload more during acceleration
• Decreases on-power steering (reduces oversteer)
• Easier to drive on rough tracks
• If a high-power engine is used you could waste too
much power and sometime “cook” the oil in the center
differential because it “overloads”
• More off-power steering
Thicker
• More all-wheel drive effect
• Better acceleration
• Increases on-power steering (reduces understeer)
• Better suited on high-bite, smooth tracks
• Car can be more nervous to drive especially if a high
power engine is used - you might need to be smooth on
the throttle
#9210
torrence, if you still follow this thread, can you tell me if you plan on selling the aluminum shock standoffs separately? one of mine broke.