AMorgan

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, nv. I'll add them to the list.

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

This is my first time running anything 1/10 buggy related and I'm using TYs Reedy setup. I'm running 7k-100k-3k for diffs, then 2x1.6 pistons with AE Blue Fronts, 37.5 Losi oil and AE White Rears, 32.5 Losi oil. I find it very easy to drive and can drive it hard like an Escale. I have no problems with our 180s, feels planted and back has never felt loose or broke loose.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

what type of traction? I am pretty much driving on velcro

cokemaster

iTrader: (18)

Xgear yellow front is very close to HB red front. And Xgear white rear is very close to HB gold rear. Spring rates in lb/in:
HB Red front is 3.63. Xgear yellow front is 3.60
HB gold rear is 2.12. Xgear white rear is 2.10.

Tranzistor

HB D413 - TQ and WIN the Ukrainian Off-Road Championship 2014 (11-12 October 2014 in Kiev)

moch8

Have managed to overheat my 6.5T down here in oz running in 26C (79F) temperatures. What are people doing to get extra cooling for their motors? I am considering getting a heatsink with a fan mounted on it but there doesn't look like there is a huge amount of room.

nicmo

what pinion were you using?

this is a possible solution: http://www.warny.pt/store/hot-bodies-d413-fan-rx-plate

Soapy

Hi Guys, what is the preffered method with the shocks. Do I cut the bladder to make them emulsion shocks or drill out the bleed hole to make them bladder shocks.

moch8

That's not a bad idea.

I was initially running a 23T and dropped down to a 22T but it is still running hot.

Planning to try have a 30mm fan running at the back to suck the hot air out.

nv529

iTrader: (53)

I cannot stress this enough! The plastic is really soft I went through 2 piston sets until I got it right. The first time I drilled the rear pistons with a #51 the hole over sized enough to fit a #50 bit (.070"/1.78mm)

I'd recommend using this method

#55 or #56 pilot hole
Front: Drill with #53, check hole with 1/16" drill. If it doesn't fit drill with 1/16" bit
Rear: Drill with #52, check hole with #51 drill. If it doesn't fit drill with #51 bit.
Take your time the holes should fit snug against the drill bit when the size is correct.

Just a FYI: I've checked my drills with a .0001" micrometer 1/16" measured .0623"/1.582mm, #51 measured .0667"/1.694mm




After resolving my drill bit issue, I started off with 40/35w x 2 holes. The car was really stable until landing big jumps or flat landing it had a nasty uncontrollable bounce. I thought it didn't have enough pack so I went up oils until reaching 50/40w, by then the car drove the worst ever due to the shocks hydrolocking/over packing which was causing the bounce. So I went to 30/25w it was "springy", but 100x better. With my drill pistons 32.5-35wfront and 27.5-30w rear seems to be the sweet spot.


Here's a crappy webcam video with 35/27.5wt. When dropped from 10-12" the buggy uses about 70-80% of travel, full compression is slightly below ride height then rebounds to ride height, the car never bottoms out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vn_vpSCGGmI

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

@Wildcat, its pretty much a Clay/Dirt mixture and using M4 Ions for tires and gets watered each round. On new track builds it's really high bite, were you could almost use slicks.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

cool. We run clay slicks, so probably a bit more traction. I didnt like Ty's reedy setup at all, the rear of the was all over the place off power. if you drive strapped it might be fine I guess.

MasiisaM

iTrader: (1)

What weight is in the rear diff?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

7k

MasiisaM

iTrader: (1)

Well damn...it's not that..sounded like you were at 2K..