Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Also, watch out for the motor cam screws. My keep coming loose. I am going to try a longer screw and use thread lock.

LOL, I ran the car last night. Had a rough start and I was over driving the car trying to get back into a respectable position in the main. We have this double, where you have to veer left on the landing and square up for a triple. If you get it wrong to thew right, you land in the straight. If you go left you hit on coming traffic, because there is a 180 right after the triple. Normally I double single out, to be safe. But last night I was airing it out on that triple. I got it wrong a couple times really bad. I landed on top of a pipe with the nail sticking up 2 inches and it caught my arm with a lot of force. Then I cased the jump a couple times and bounced and rolled hard. Needless to say, I was abusing the car more than I normally would. The race director started to make comments after 2 of the cars broke and here I was doing things, that would most definitely break most any car on the market. The D413 really reminds me of 8th scale in the way it drives and its durability. Sure, it is bendy and sloppy...but I can drive the shit out of it and finish every race.

trick25

iTrader: (28)

nice. I feel the same way.

yea that's the two screws I was talking about to. those are the one that vibrated loose on me. luckily I caught it before I destroyed the spur.

Did you try different springs up front? how did that do for you?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Also, one little thing I noticed about this car. It is very hard to lawn dart it. 4wd buggies tend to have a flat protruding bumper. That will dig into the track and cause lawn darting. I actually saw an xray get stuck. His bumper dug into the clay, and his 6.5 could not push through the clay and free the car. The Marshall though he was broke and took him time to pickup the car. The front of the d413 is kind angles up and shaped like a boat. It tends to skip off the surface and not dig in. Just something I noticed.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Yes, I went to AE red fronts and grey rears. I also added another degree of camber in the rear. These changes seemed to keep the car from flipping as much and allowed me to drive it harder. But the rear was a little looser than I would like. I might go to AE white rears. I would like the car a tad more locked it.


On the loose motor cam, I did not destroy my spur, it deftly took some abuse when the motor loosened up. I think the cam screws are like 3x6mm. I would swap them out for a 3x8mm. Just so you get more thread engagement.

trick25

iTrader: (28)

good tip on motor screws. I think they put them that short is because some motors the thread is not that deep. I may be swapping my 7.5 for a 6.5 next month and I will put longer screws if I do.

ok thanks. funny thing is the blue fronts are supposed to be one step stiff than stock. The AE blues I had were a little softer than the stock HPI ones. But the AE yellow was stiffer that stock for sure. so next week it will be yellow/white to start.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Seems like a good spring starting value. I went red because of the level of traction here. And I was trying to create some push in the car. So I will be starting with red/white next weekend. The next thing I need to do is change the oils in my diff. I feel like my shock package is pretty good now. But I feel like the car's diff oils might be too light. currently running the kits oils.


Yeah, I know some motors need shorter screws. I would just use whatever you can with the most thread engagement and locktite the screws. And re-locktit everyone once in a while because the heat will break it down over time. I user reedy and hacker motors and with those you can use longer screws.

Sofa King

iTrader: (2)

Just opened a new wing up, it looked thicker than the old one. Calipers on the new one were .69mm my old wing with a protective sheet on it is .66mm, not sure the thickness of the sheet I was using but the new wings certainly look thicker!

kdeleon

iTrader: (10)

I guess they are finally coming through the pipeline. It was mentioned before that the first batch of wings was too thin and they would be thicker in subsequent shipments.

jones8352

iTrader: (1)

I'm having a problem with one of my front shock caps, it popped off on a big jump and now the threads are messed up. I would like to go with some nice aluminum caps can any body hook me up with something that will work, I really don't have the time to read every page on this forum. I know I'll most likely have to change the mounts but that's not a real big deal. If any body has info on mounting I would appreciate that info too!!!!

rider313

iTrader: (94)

Go back one or two pages and you will see the part numbers for alm serpent SRX caps.

rosko

Why is it taking soooo long to get kits back out there? Wonder if they r makung some changes to the shock caps or something!

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I am trying to adjust the kickup on the front and want to go 11deg kick lrc. how should they look. like this \_| |_/

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

@Wildcat, yep thats how mine look when I did the initial set-up for 11* Front kick-up. I wish the manual or setup sheet would show a side view of those, since you can easily mistake which way to be pointed.

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

Last night I changed out my front diff fluid and was actually surprised that it didn't take as long as I thought it might. I managed to get the front diff changed out and back together in about 20-30mins and that was with my son asking me a lot of questions.... LOL ahhh gotta love 5yrs olds... LOL

moch8

Does the direction of arm mount matter? I thought the different mounts just had a different height.