66LikesHot Bodies D413 1/10 4WD Buggy
04-27-2014, 11:26 AM
#2057
I did run low and high mounting. but due to track conditions and my poor driving I cant feel any differance.
I never had a 4wd buggy before, im trying to get rid of my 2wd driving style.
I just mounted it low, because I thought it would look cool .
this thing is a tank for sure. I was in a agressive mood the last 2 pack I ran today. And I had to bump off a few SCT's of the track because they where in my way and slower..
no sweat.
I do think of going up a few notches in my centerdiff and front diff. I had 5k center and 7k front. Now I want 7k center and 10k front. hoping to get just a little more push and a little less steering
I never had a 4wd buggy before, im trying to get rid of my 2wd driving style.
I just mounted it low, because I thought it would look cool .
this thing is a tank for sure. I was in a agressive mood the last 2 pack I ran today. And I had to bump off a few SCT's of the track because they where in my way and slower..
no sweat.
I do think of going up a few notches in my centerdiff and front diff. I had 5k center and 7k front. Now I want 7k center and 10k front. hoping to get just a little more push and a little less steering
04-27-2014, 11:37 AM
#2058
Tech Adept
when driving stock every little bit helps....be it degreasing bearings and using light oil, or cutting wires to a minimum along with using solid bullets...it all helps
in my scte i saw an increase in torque and speed, granted my caged bullets must have been garbage, as they where warm/hot enough to burn my hand....lab grade equipment, takes into account small clips etc...
in offroad it will be less noticeable, and if running mod i doubt you will notice at all...
that being said i have seen the copper tubes in batteries de-solder from bad connection with bad connectors...or case starting to melt around the tube
in my scte i saw an increase in torque and speed, granted my caged bullets must have been garbage, as they where warm/hot enough to burn my hand....lab grade equipment, takes into account small clips etc...
in offroad it will be less noticeable, and if running mod i doubt you will notice at all...
that being said i have seen the copper tubes in batteries de-solder from bad connection with bad connectors...or case starting to melt around the tube
04-27-2014, 11:43 AM
#2059
I did run low and high mounting. but due to track conditions and my poor driving I cant feel any differance.
I never had a 4wd buggy before, im trying to get rid of my 2wd driving style.
I just mounted it low, because I thought it would look cool .
this thing is a tank for sure. I was in a agressive mood the last 2 pack I ran today. And I had to bump off a few SCT's of the track because they where in my way and slower..
no sweat.
I do think of going up a few notches in my centerdiff and front diff. I had 5k center and 7k front. Now I want 7k center and 10k front. hoping to get just a little more push and a little less steering
I never had a 4wd buggy before, im trying to get rid of my 2wd driving style.
I just mounted it low, because I thought it would look cool .
this thing is a tank for sure. I was in a agressive mood the last 2 pack I ran today. And I had to bump off a few SCT's of the track because they where in my way and slower..
no sweat.
I do think of going up a few notches in my centerdiff and front diff. I had 5k center and 7k front. Now I want 7k center and 10k front. hoping to get just a little more push and a little less steering
I noticed some setups with 100k oil on center, but you're running very light center oil. Curious on the differences.
04-27-2014, 11:57 AM
#2061
low oil weight in the centerdiff makes the car easier to drive. Also I do not have big jumps / triples or quads that I have to make.
I started with 50K in the center and the car was nervous and the lower I went the easier the car was to drive.
Im getting some help with tuning my diffs from a few guys that run 1/8 scale.
Last edited by murky123; 04-27-2014 at 12:24 PM.
04-28-2014, 03:43 AM
#2062
my track is hardpacked dirt, very low grip. often dusty.
low oil weight in the centerdiff makes the car easier to drive. Also I do not have big jumps / triples or quads that I have to make.
I started with 50K in the center and the car was nervous and the lower I went the easier the car was to drive.
Im getting some help with tuning my diffs from a few guys that run 1/8 scale.
low oil weight in the centerdiff makes the car easier to drive. Also I do not have big jumps / triples or quads that I have to make.
I started with 50K in the center and the car was nervous and the lower I went the easier the car was to drive.
Im getting some help with tuning my diffs from a few guys that run 1/8 scale.
As in normalyl for 1/8 they run lower rear oils. If I do that in the yoke (yes i know its not a HB!! But it should have the same principals
) it makes it over rotate on power.When I use similar oils front and rear it has more rear grip on power. I found it very interesting when I first played with it. A bit backwards.
Anyway the 413 does look really cool. And the suspension seems super plush on landings, doesnt seem to slap out like the yoke.
Cheers
04-28-2014, 04:55 AM
#2063
+1
Deans made sense when ESC's were prewired and you had to put some kind of connector on them. Now that you have to solder the wire on the ESC anyway, it just makes sense to remove the intermediate connector. One less point of increased resistance, and one less thing to fail. I like to put a piece of red electrical tape around the + socket on my batteries just as a sanity check.
Deans made sense when ESC's were prewired and you had to put some kind of connector on them. Now that you have to solder the wire on the ESC anyway, it just makes sense to remove the intermediate connector. One less point of increased resistance, and one less thing to fail. I like to put a piece of red electrical tape around the + socket on my batteries just as a sanity check.
Watched a guy the other day melt the plastic on two batteries around the inboard 4mm posts. He had a loose fit and it would heat up as the connector would arc.
04-28-2014, 07:43 AM
#2064
Tech Adept
on race packs direct wire batteries, have wire soldered directly to the tab of the cell, eliminating a solder joint....most people who have had problems with deans is because of 2 things
1 they didnt actually use deans, but clones....the clones are made with inferior plastic with a melting point lower than real deans, this makes the connector "legs" getting loose...this can happen during soldering, or because of internal resistance heating up the plug...been there done that (in SCT), not buying clones again !
2 used a crappy clone with high internal resistance, they may look like deans, they may fit real deans...but a clone is a clone...sometimes the they work just fine in low current applications, like stock races or in basher equipment...but once in a 1/8 scale or short course truck, even in a mod buggy, problems starts to arise
on inboard packs, the taps are soldered to a board and the tubes soldered to the board, leading to a tiny bit more IR compared to direct wire
as lbenton said....when people use poor bullets be it caged or loose fit solids, the tube in the battery will heat up, sometimes enough to melt case, sometimes even enough to that the solder gets soft, thats when you see inboard packs with tubes leaning.
when talking about IR with one connector being say 2.9mohm, and another 0.5mohm in mod you probably wouldnt care as you got all the power you want, but in say stock racing every little bit counts, especially in Touring car stock 17.5 - 13.5 , cutting wires as short as possible, saves weight and resistance, using ceramic bearings, light weight sincle coated bodies, titanium screws etc...it all adds up some mods are cheaper than others....limiting IR is just one tuning point
switching from caged bullets to solids is fairly cheap at around 3$...so why run the risk with caged bullets ?
1 they didnt actually use deans, but clones....the clones are made with inferior plastic with a melting point lower than real deans, this makes the connector "legs" getting loose...this can happen during soldering, or because of internal resistance heating up the plug...been there done that (in SCT), not buying clones again !
2 used a crappy clone with high internal resistance, they may look like deans, they may fit real deans...but a clone is a clone...sometimes the they work just fine in low current applications, like stock races or in basher equipment...but once in a 1/8 scale or short course truck, even in a mod buggy, problems starts to arise
on inboard packs, the taps are soldered to a board and the tubes soldered to the board, leading to a tiny bit more IR compared to direct wire
as lbenton said....when people use poor bullets be it caged or loose fit solids, the tube in the battery will heat up, sometimes enough to melt case, sometimes even enough to that the solder gets soft, thats when you see inboard packs with tubes leaning.
when talking about IR with one connector being say 2.9mohm, and another 0.5mohm in mod you probably wouldnt care as you got all the power you want, but in say stock racing every little bit counts, especially in Touring car stock 17.5 - 13.5 , cutting wires as short as possible, saves weight and resistance, using ceramic bearings, light weight sincle coated bodies, titanium screws etc...it all adds up some mods are cheaper than others....limiting IR is just one tuning point
switching from caged bullets to solids is fairly cheap at around 3$...so why run the risk with caged bullets ?
04-28-2014, 10:27 AM
#2065
Superiorhobbies just refunded my purchase. Guess I'll be picking up a different wheeler instead. The lack of product on new items in this industry add to why it has issues at times getting new people or keeping people in the hobby.
Best of luck on the HB!
Best of luck on the HB!
04-28-2014, 10:44 AM
#2066
04-28-2014, 11:06 AM
#2068
on race packs direct wire batteries, have wire soldered directly to the tab of the cell, eliminating a solder joint....most people who have had problems with deans is because of 2 things
1 they didnt actually use deans, but clones....the clones are made with inferior plastic with a melting point lower than real deans, this makes the connector "legs" getting loose...this can happen during soldering, or because of internal resistance heating up the plug...been there done that (in SCT), not buying clones again !
2 used a crappy clone with high internal resistance, they may look like deans, they may fit real deans...but a clone is a clone...sometimes the they work just fine in low current applications, like stock races or in basher equipment...but once in a 1/8 scale or short course truck, even in a mod buggy, problems starts to arise
on inboard packs, the taps are soldered to a board and the tubes soldered to the board, leading to a tiny bit more IR compared to direct wire
as lbenton said....when people use poor bullets be it caged or loose fit solids, the tube in the battery will heat up, sometimes enough to melt case, sometimes even enough to that the solder gets soft, thats when you see inboard packs with tubes leaning.
when talking about IR with one connector being say 2.9mohm, and another 0.5mohm in mod you probably wouldnt care as you got all the power you want, but in say stock racing every little bit counts, especially in Touring car stock 17.5 - 13.5 , cutting wires as short as possible, saves weight and resistance, using ceramic bearings, light weight sincle coated bodies, titanium screws etc...it all adds up some mods are cheaper than others....limiting IR is just one tuning point
switching from caged bullets to solids is fairly cheap at around 3$...so why run the risk with caged bullets ?
1 they didnt actually use deans, but clones....the clones are made with inferior plastic with a melting point lower than real deans, this makes the connector "legs" getting loose...this can happen during soldering, or because of internal resistance heating up the plug...been there done that (in SCT), not buying clones again !
2 used a crappy clone with high internal resistance, they may look like deans, they may fit real deans...but a clone is a clone...sometimes the they work just fine in low current applications, like stock races or in basher equipment...but once in a 1/8 scale or short course truck, even in a mod buggy, problems starts to arise
on inboard packs, the taps are soldered to a board and the tubes soldered to the board, leading to a tiny bit more IR compared to direct wire
as lbenton said....when people use poor bullets be it caged or loose fit solids, the tube in the battery will heat up, sometimes enough to melt case, sometimes even enough to that the solder gets soft, thats when you see inboard packs with tubes leaning.
when talking about IR with one connector being say 2.9mohm, and another 0.5mohm in mod you probably wouldnt care as you got all the power you want, but in say stock racing every little bit counts, especially in Touring car stock 17.5 - 13.5 , cutting wires as short as possible, saves weight and resistance, using ceramic bearings, light weight sincle coated bodies, titanium screws etc...it all adds up some mods are cheaper than others....limiting IR is just one tuning point
switching from caged bullets to solids is fairly cheap at around 3$...so why run the risk with caged bullets ?
You keep bringing up people who maintain their bullets like crap, and compare those to lab condition Deans. If someone buys bottom dollar bullets and doesn't maintain/replace them when needed, I doubt they are going to all-of-a-sudden properly maintain Deans connectors if they switch. You are going to see a similar rise in IR as their contacts get corroded, their crappy cold solder joints loosen, and the connector flops around their vehicle stressing its mechanical retention.
I am a big proponent of "do whatever makes you happy," and if Deans makes you happy, great.
04-28-2014, 11:46 AM
#2070
Curious to know what you guys think about diff tuning for 1/10.
As in normalyl for 1/8 they run lower rear oils. If I do that in the yoke (yes i know its not a HB!! But it should have the same principals) it makes it over rotate on power.
When I use similar oils front and rear it has more rear grip on power. I found it very interesting when I first played with it. A bit backwards.
Anyway the 413 does look really cool. And the suspension seems super plush on landings, doesnt seem to slap out like the yoke.
Cheers
As in normalyl for 1/8 they run lower rear oils. If I do that in the yoke (yes i know its not a HB!! But it should have the same principals
) it makes it over rotate on power.When I use similar oils front and rear it has more rear grip on power. I found it very interesting when I first played with it. A bit backwards.
Anyway the 413 does look really cool. And the suspension seems super plush on landings, doesnt seem to slap out like the yoke.
Cheers
