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Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread

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Old 01-24-2018, 07:02 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: alex4r
Kyosho ZX6.6 New Parts (* = required to update ZX6 to ZX6.6 platform)


LA359B - Center Mount Set (ZX6.6)*
LA375 - Center Diff. Gear Set(ZX6.6)*
LA375-01 - Center Diff. Gear Case Set(ZX6.6)
LA375-78 - Spur Gear(48P-78T/ZX6.6)
LA376 - Center Drive Shaft (71.5/ZX6.6)*
LA377 - Center Drive Shaft (79.5/ZX6.6)* (x2)
LA378 - Center Drive Shaft (88/ZX6.6)*
LA379 - Joint Cup Cover (ZX6/ZX6.6)*
LAW54B-01 - HD Chassis*
LA355B - Side guard set*
UM713B - Rear Arms (from RB6)*
UM561 - Outer rear hinge pins*
LA236-12B - 1.2mm Front sway bar*
LA351B 4-hole front shock tower*


Options
VVC Blades TFW126
Spare Blades TFW001-01

Manuals

Lazer ZX6.6
Lazer ZX6

After Market Bodies

JConcepts Silencer

Weight Reduction options for 13.5 Class

Chassis:
UMW711B - Carbon composite rear arms
LAW60 - Carbon composite front upper bulkhead
LAW61 - Carbon composite rear upper bulkhead
LAW52 - Carbon composite front chassis brace
LAW53 - Carbon composite rear chassis brace
LA209HB - Carbon composite gear boxes (pinion bearing retainer & upper gearbox half only, lower half not compatible/saves 4.6g total)
Driveline:
LA211B - Plastic drive cups for center drive shafts coming out of front & rear gear boxes (requires drilling two holes for set screws to secure LA379)
TFW001 - Aluminum blade style outdrives (for ball diff/requires TF013)
LA202 - Aluminum pinion shafts (for ball diff)
TFW126 - VVC outdrives (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
TFW008 - VVC cross pins (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
Misc:
LAB06LW - LW Blade body
SK0402 - Ti screw set (Available at Lunsfordracing.com)
PTK-T-2111 - Ti screw set (cheaper, slightly less durable option)
LNS7765 - Ti ball studs
LNS2688 - Ti Turnbuckles
LNS36107 - Ti Turnbuckles (super duty)
W0201H - Hard anodized lower shock balls
1-N3024A-R - Aluminum M3x2.4 nuts (for shock standoffs)
1-N3033NA-R - Aluminum M3x3.3 locknuts

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Old 10-27-2015, 03:18 PM
  #1606  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Its gonna be uber expensive for the competition kit, (possibly more then the ZX-6) and the ZX-6 is a proven platform where I race.
Oh I understand, hope you dont want all those spares back I bought from you
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Old 10-28-2015, 09:55 AM
  #1607  
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin
Oh I understand, hope you dont want all those spares back I bought from you
No, not at all lol.... I have new spares.
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:27 AM
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Anyone run the pin in the slipper assembly?

Why would connecting the front and rear help? I mainly run indoor clay 13.5T.
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Old 11-01-2015, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Nexus
Anyone run the pin in the slipper assembly?

Why would connecting the front and rear help? I mainly run indoor clay 13.5T.
I did by mistake, and the car was undrivable. All the team guys I talked to about it said they never run it. Took it out, and car was awesome.
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Old 11-02-2015, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
I did by mistake, and the car was undrivable. All the team guys I talked to about it said they never run it. Took it out, and car was awesome.
Excellent and thanks.
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Old 11-13-2015, 05:50 AM
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Can you buy the cross pins (the planetary gears ride on) for the gear diffs separately? I can't even find a part number for them.
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Old 11-16-2015, 05:54 AM
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How is everyone's turning radius? Mine sees to be excessively wide but I can't figure out how to fix it... The inner tire has a good steering angle but the outer tire only turns slightly. The car is awesome everywhere except for the 2 or 3 low speed hairpin turns.
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Old 11-16-2015, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by rpboggs1
How is everyone's turning radius? Mine sees to be excessively wide but I can't figure out how to fix it... The inner tire has a good steering angle but the outer tire only turns slightly. The car is awesome everywhere except for the 2 or 3 low speed hairpin turns.
Is the steering block arm hitting the a-arm at all? I know if you put the steering blocks on upside down they will hit the arms and not turn fully.

My car seems to be fine in the slow stuff, no issues with turning
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:00 AM
  #1614  
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin
Is the steering block arm hitting the a-arm at all? I know if you put the steering blocks on upside down they will hit the arms and not turn fully.

My car seems to be fine in the slow stuff, no issues with turning
Thanks for the response! It looks like steering block arm is just missing the a arm. The c-hub is positioned with the steering arm on the top half. Hopefully that is the right way.
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:04 AM
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Yes that is the correct way, if the steering arm clears the arm at full droop you know it is on correctly. How tight are your diffs?
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:11 AM
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin
Yes that is the correct way, if the steering arm clears the arm at full droop you know it is on correctly. How tight are your diffs?
Just uploaded a picture at full lock. The front diff is tight and the rear is medium.
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by rpboggs1
Just uploaded a picture at full lock. The front diff is tight and the rear is medium.
Hmmm I will compare with mine this evening when I get home from work
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin
Hmmm I will compare with mine this evening when I get home from work
Awesome! Thank you very much!
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Old 11-18-2015, 05:40 AM
  #1620  
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u should run the front diff a little more loose then the rear. makes the car enter harder. can u post entire setup or are u running one from petit rc that u can tell me which one
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