Unfortunately, Have to crash less. It's a common issue across all truggies.

I have a snows, LFR, and the tekno. I personally prefer the tekno one's looks, won't buy the snows again, and haven't gotten to use the LFR body yet.

also a fair bit of reinforcement with drywall tape and shoo goo (or the like).

TY jp. I tried 16T pinion & got 183 on the motor after only 3/4 of a pack.

Is anyone using the Pro-Line Enforcer body for the NT-48? If so, how does it fit?
http://www.prolineracing.com/bodies/enforcer-nt48

too bad proline stopped the slipstream body ; it was thick !

Have you tried putting a lexan washer between the body and front body post? I have a fellow Tekno racer give me this tip. The Traxxas body washers work great. It only needs to be a 1mm or less. This really helped prolong the life of my bodies. It stopped the body from cracking on the front portion of the body.

I am not sure what you can do to stop the top from cracking (shoe-goo, dry wall tape, and less wrecking?).

It's too wide. Same issue with the snows body. You can use velcro to the sides, which I do anyways, but looks funny.

Thanks for that, I was considering it for my ET-48 so I'm glad to know it won't fit!

re: velcro...great idea! I do that with my buggies and it really helps keep the dirt and pebbles out!

re: lexan washers..another great idea, as is the drywall tape and shoegoo.. I've started reinforcing my bodies right after painting in order to make them last longer. For the new Tekno body I'm about to paint up, I'll use my old beat up body as a guide for where I need to reinforce...basically, whatever a crack appeared on the old one is where my reinforcing will be on the new one (better buy some more shoe goo!)

Here's how I reinforced a fresh body around the body posts with a bit of lexan and shoegoo...it's an RC8.2e body (which tends to crack around that rear body post) but you get the idea...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_l...8=w640-h426-no

I have had the same issue. The one thing that i have noticed, is that one of the screws will no completely tighten. 3 of them thread perfectly. the fourth, however, wont. I think this is what caused my leak. didn't have any diff fluid to refill the center diff, but once my shipment come in I'll rebuild it using the same components (accept for O-Ring, and Gasket) and see if it continues to leak. You may want to check and see if this could be you problem. I'm curious if that's all mine is.

Just ordered a et48.3 cant wait for it to get here. After getting the 410.3 decided to sell the mugen's and go with tekno. Love the adjustability of the tekno's.

Going on a year and 3 months racing my ET with the body it came with. I race it no less than 2 times a month, typically more (weather dependent).

Reinforcing it with the excess lexan cut from the body before painting along with some ShoeGoo has helped this body stand up well. Can't help but think that properly slotting the rear body mount holes has helped as well, preventing the body from trying to act like a chassis stiffener.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/14037762-post4149.html

Make sure you make the rear holes in the body oval. That's the biggest thing. The ET chassis flexes a LOT, especially if you case or lawn dart things. So, if your body can't slide that much in the holes, it'll make the body flex too...which can crack it as a body isn't meant to flex in that direction.

You guys make a really great point about the oval cutouts to allow the body to flex... I noticed that the marks for the holes on the ET48 body are ovals, not circles.

...and Jim, that's a very nice paint job on your ET48 body!!

Great tip, thanks for that!:D

Thanks JJ. Will Kidder, talented painter here in South Louisiana paints for me. Very happy with his work.

What is the length of the rear shocks eye to eye? I'm looking for some big bore shocks that are not more than 150mm in length.

I think I found a number which is 137mm.