Cool deal. Thanks. ;)

Thanks. I have Xerun 2200kV motor. Is it ok that I use screws tkr1524 to mount this? Won't the motor's winding be damaged? Thanks.


Which battery should I choose from hobbyking? I found Zippy 5.8Ah 4S 35C and 5Ah 45C... Eventually nanotech from Turnigy, but they are too long. Thanks.

FINALLY finished up my body for another season of bashing around at the local track! I cheated and used the XXX Main pre-cut decals that go on the inside of the body (before you paint). I gotta say, I think it turned out pretty good for not spending a whole lotta time on! :lol:

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9...pscyxpxsxd.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9...psthzw44x5.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9...psdgsn4m6g.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i9...ps3e3sxdzn.jpg

That turned out nice!

Hey do you know the weight of the AKA Cityblocks? Wheel/foam/tire.

Thanks! :D

Sorry man, I don't... no way to weigh something that light. ;)

I have a set of those, I will weigh them when I get home this afternoon.

Cityblock weight
 

I just weighed my AKA city blocks mounted on AKA Evo wheels with red closed cell inserts. They each weigh 202g/7.1oz.

Thanks!

I just got one of these and I am having some trouble getting my center diff to seal correctly. First run after the build, the whole truck worked great, but when I pulled it off the track, the center diff felt empty and there was a stripe of oil on the inside of the body.

Today, I replaced the stock spur with the metal one (P/N TKR 5115), and rebuilt the center diff using the same internals and O-rings, but with a new diff case, new spur gear seal (the Tekno one), titanium screws, and the metal spur. I noticed that the seal seemed a little too large for the groove in the spur, but I figured it didn't matter and tightened it down.

When I ran the truck, it still worked fine, but the same thing afterward; empty diff and oil stripe in the body. Additionally, when I spun the truck's wheels and looked at the spur, it seems like the spur is not sitting completely flat on the diff case.

Any ideas? Do I need to trim the seal to get it to fit in the spur? I've been putting black grease on the seals before assembling the diff, should I not do this? Any help is appreciated.

Lots of people take the diff case and sand the top a tad by hand with some sandpaper. Just put a sheet on a table and rotate the diff case on it a little and it will make sure you have a nice smooth flat mounting surface. Some use grease on the gasket some don't. The key is to not over tighten the screws. Just snug them up and don't overdo it.
Also be sure to use a good amount of grease on the out drives before putting them through the gear and case.

Interesting.... I just rebuilt my center diff and noticed the same thing. I didn't know about the sanding tip when I did it, so I'm going to have to try it!

Hey guys I'm looking into getting a ET48 after running the buggy and sc. Is Tekno planning on coming out with an updated version or would it be safe to pick up the current version?

I think your safe with that vechile.

I rebuilt mine and got it to seal properly. What I did was do the sanding trick suggested by MattP, using very fine grit paper (not sure on the exact number, but it was the kind that feels more velvety than rough). I also took a new blue seal and used some very sharp scissors to trim it down around the outer edge until it sat well in the metal spur (ended up trimming a bit less than 1mm off).

Then, when I put the spur onto the diff case, I made sure it sat flat. The lip on the metal spur sits very tight on the diff case and it wants to go on cocked unless you pay attention and push it down flat. I think this is why my diff puked out all the oil last time; because I didn't have the spur seated right on the diff. Anyway, I did all that, and got the screws tight but not super tight, and after some hard running I noticed very little grease stripe on the inside of the body and the diff definitely still had oil in it afterward.