In 3+ years of owning Tekno rigs I have never had a diff leak or fail or any diff issue. Those screws need to be cranked down. Use Mobil one red grease on out-drives and o-rings. They are a bitch to get tight but you will feel it bottom out. I have never sanded the diff cup, ever. Ones i got were smooth, no need to. Heck i just sold my first SCT410 over 3 years old on same diffs and same gears, never an issue.

If its leaking there's too much fluid, not tight enough or simply built wrong. I fill it just to the top of gears, not a drop more. the rest of the diff assembly will take up the space. the gasket fits exactly. Smear a little grease on it to keep it lined up. The tolerances are so tight/ exact. I just build 3 new rigs past few weeks and got 2 race weekends on all with no diff issues..

All Canadians that own a Tekno please join here... I'm just trying to get an idea of the number of Tekno owners.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/698636993613372/

i use a tekno center diff in my hobao buggy. When I started to sand it, I noticed some unsanded spots. this means the diff case isn't perfectly flat.

Sand the top of the diff cup as others have suggested and grease the outdrives. I crank the screws down pretty hard and don't have issues with leaks. Sanding the top seems to be the important thing.

if it were perfectly flat you wouldn't need a gasket. that gasket compresses a little. it takes up any if any unevenness. also crank them down in a cris cross pattern like you would a real car wheel.

I hear you guys taking the extra step, but for me not necessary. but hey if it works for you. cool. whatever keeps it together to finish I say..

I recently talked to a buddy of mine who is also a team Tekno driver. There are no plans of updating the truggy.

Hobbyking electronics or Hobby Wing. I run all hobby wing in my vehicles and have had zero issues.

Anyone done the mugan or xray rear chassis brace mod? Pictures? If you did both which do you like better, which do you feel is the best?

My first choice would be the hobbywing Xerun 1800kv and 150a ESC, combo is maybe 210 w/o discounts. Not finding a better setup at any price point.

Tekin is the major one that identifies some as for buggy or truggy. Most others don't label them. For a truggy you will see most use a tad higher kv rated motor. For example for a buggy 1800-2100kv is the norm. Truggy lots use 2050-2250kv. Also most truggy style motors have a longer can length than their buggy counterparts. I personally run 1900kv in both buggy and truggy. The Teknos with their lightened drivelines and gear ratios don't require a high torque and high kv motor.

I agree, I have the 2200 and a buddy has the 1800 in his. If I had to do it over again I would go with the 1800. 2200 is ballistic and a ton of wheel spin. (I turned all my esc setting down and it's more manageable)

Servo saver?
 

Have any of you had issues with the servo saver binding up and not returning to center after landing on jumps. Mine will stay off center and makes it very difficult to finish a race. It's not the horn or servo. Definitely the saver. I can turn the wheels while powered up and replicate this issue. Is the saver too tight or loose? Thanks guys!

I would think your saver is too loose most likely. I've had my servo saver back off when I didn't put any loctite on the threads before I tightened it and the buggy would do just what yours is doing.

it was said previously to sand down a bit the servo saver so that it returns flawlessly to its initial position

I tried this and unfortunately it didn't help me. I was told to order a new one because they have since corrected the issue. I haven't tried that the new one yet. I'll try to post when I get it installed.