Well racing electric on and off for over a decade frequenting races of 75+, I would say you have a statistically nearly impossible high amount of people with electric problems :D I hope there is some good assistance for everyone to learn. Good luck with that!

To be honest, I say whatever works for everyone's personal situations. Hard wiring with bullets or deans have had the best luck for me over the years.

I averaged that figure out a bit, for example last weekend there was about 240entries? ball park, and I saw 2 with deans issues and 1 with 4mm issue so three in total and I could have missed a few problems w/ that many heats and me running 3 classes. Now it maybe a week or two or even three before I see another issue, hard to say. Of course we helped those guys out as needed if they let us. I will note most issues tend to be w/ pro4 racing.. looking at averages, but it's a mix btw that and 1/8 overall typically. Those two classes also have the most poofed packs from guys running too loose of plugs (typically 4mm) direct into batteries for this issue... simply put it's the heat from the loose plugs arcing as they get loose. I even see packs w/ melted plastic around the bullets, again due to too loose of a connection almost always.

Please note I don't include nimh racing and the old days.. I didn't start racing until that era had past. I've been electric brushless/lipo my entire time racing starting w/ 1/8 and eventually adding in some 1/10 vehicles. 10yrs ago we didn't even have the MMM yet (MM prolly was just released) and lipo was just at its birth in rc racing... people were spending 400 on an esc that could barely do the job back then, and it was often paired w/ 14s nimh configs... and deans were the standard for lack of other good options. A lot has changed :)

If I recall it was about 2006 for the original mamba max system, many used this in 1/8 MT's with Neu motors on 4s or 14 cell configs w/ external bec's.. I wasn't even racing at this point, but I did have a Revo setup converted from nitro some time by 08, then stumbled onto racing soon after and never looked back :)

yes, I had 4mm bullets with the famous ARC POP! I have EC5 on my chargers
they are a little tough to unplug but great! wanted to try xt60 just this summer
I really want the Supra x 5mm plugs but $$$$, another thing is these tight bodies some plugs make it hard to get under there! 4SC is the most abuse on batteries and amp draw!
I dont usually run ROAR events, but I'm gonna run 3s next season or this year on off season with a lower kv pro4hd motor should be really efficient!
I run exclusively hard wired packs! well, i take that back; the ONLY packs I have that ONLY come inboard 4mm is my shorties for my 4wd buggy! BUT I use high end bullets from SMC

I freaking hate XT60's or at least the ones that come from Hobby king, maybe there are better brands. They would either be way too tight or way too loose and the resistance isn't that great.

I have the genuine asus xt60's cant remember where I got them
was gonna try new castle green plugs but they are pretty big

This is kind of hilarious... I was kinda confused as to what a good choice would be to use for something (I thought to be) somewhat straight-forward. Now - I'm really confused... I mean, I know that opinions are like armpits... *almost everybody has one!

I would just like to learn how NOT to burn up any components due to my lack of knowledge in the game! I think I'll just talk with someone from Tekin or SMC to figure out how to hook this all together... :lol:

You will find in this hobby that no one EVER agrees 1 certain thing is the best thing. Doesn't matter what you are talking about.....there will ALWAYS be many opinions.

Go ask what the best buggy is, esc, motor, locknut, screw, shock oil, pit towel, zip tie............you get my point. I GUARANTEE you won't get a single answer for any of them. lol

I run bullets in my 10th scale vehicles without issue, including pushing an sct410 really hard. The key is just to make sure the tube is clean and the SOLID bullet is still providing a tight fit. If you have a "cage" style bullet, just throw it out unless it is on a charge only lead.

For 8th scale, I've been using deans for everything, direct wire from the 4s packs. Knock off "T connector" fake Deans often have higher resistance, but also a lower melting point for the plastic. This makes it harder to get a good solder joint, but also makes it far more likely that you move the connector inside the plastic while soldering, leading to a bad and/or loose connection. A properly soldered Deans (solder while connected to the other half so the plug portion can't shift) will only ever need the leads to be kept clean and an occasional bend of the spring side to keep the leads in tight contact. I haven't had disconnect issues, but somebody else at the track used to, so he simply put a strip of tape around the connection after he plugged it in and problem solved.

didnt mean to scare you, THE MOST IMPORTANT THING is a GOOD SOLDER JOINT! Keep connectors clean also!

We all have opinions and you will too, when things work for you when they don't what you see around you all contributes right or wrong they are ALL opinions. Its never bad speaking to the resellers, err companies as they too will have opinions and they often matter more as they can choose to exercise a warranty or NOT :P

I run direct 4mm bullets in every 1/10 vehicle I own including my pro4, just because they have issues as with any other un-maintained system doesn't mean don't use them. 1/8 scale is a different beast, I never recommend anything but EC5, the cheaper ones off amazon or the real ec5 (just don't mix and match them). These "in my opinion" are the only option for me. Many people do very well running deans and other options, I use to run deans.. they wear out fast and don't hold or conduct current like an EC5 so for me it was a no brainer. There are many many good plugs out there now read reviews take everyone's input and make an educated decision based on the material. Then if you like your decision be happy if not swap them up :) Don't stress over it though..

I got a question for the ET48 racers here. What do I need to adjust to help keep the nose planted better? Center diff oil? At more than 3/4 throttle the front is in full "ballooning". This is causing me to go nose high over most of the bigger jump when I gotta hit them with full power. But on another note: this thing is a total blast to drive. The landings after big jump are amazing. I would like a bit more steering, and will adjust for that. And it's tough! As any good newbie I had a few good tumbles, and one hard nose plant into the side of the triple :) Only thing I had loose after the day at the track where the sway bars. Still debating on going to mechanical brake to keep motor temp down.. If I do I think I can pull a bit more power out of it. I wasnt able to clear the double/double like I can with my buggie. But this is by far one of the best rc's I have bought.. And I have durango's and mugen's! to compare to

Anyone having issues with the chassis bending? I cased a jump, wasn't even that bad of a hit. Bent the tail of my chassis quite a bit. It actually creased it. That has never happened to me.... Kit was 3 weeks old. I always run with all braces in and locked down.

I've been busy the last few weeks and haven't been on much to look at this thread. Is any body planning to make an aftermarket body? My ET body is cracking everywhere after only a handful of club races and re enforcing with shoe glue and tape. I have another factory body ordered. I like the looks of the body but wish it was thicker. I don't care for the agama body

Got my truggy to the track for the first time this weekend. Man I love this thing, even though I had to cut my practice short this morning when I stripped the servo horn.

Are you guys adding thread lock to the screws with lock nuts on them? After running 4 batteries through it, most of my front steering components were coming apart this morning.

Anyway, I'm seriously considering selling my 2 month old RC8.2e and replacing it with an EB48.2.

That's what I did after I bought the SCT410. Worth it just to have parts compatibility. The EB has more turn in and squares out of turns and flys better than my RC8.2. With good tuning etc. i'm sure I could be as fast with either one, but I just like the way the teknos drive better.