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Originally Posted by mkl
(Post 13275268)
Ok, so I have been reading through this thread and am starting to get an irrational desire to buy one of these.
1. From what I gather, I would need a servo with at least 300oz of torque. Anybody have the Protek 170S? 2. it seems a lot of people like 2000kv truggy motor, but I have a 1900kv T8 buggy motor. I would be using 4s batteries. Will this be a good enough motor with an RX-8? |
cool. my truck is on it way, be here tomorrow. Is there anything I MUST do during build? Any upgrades I MUST install? Thanks for the info, and yes I doing my best to ready the 188 pages fast I can :)
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Guys running a 15t without sanding down the brace is a fine mesh?
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Originally Posted by mkl
(Post 13275268)
Ok, so I have been reading through this thread and am starting to get an irrational desire to buy one of these.
1. From what I gather, I would need a servo with at least 300oz of torque. Anybody have the Protek 170S? 2. it seems a lot of people like 2000kv truggy motor, but I have a 1900kv T8 buggy motor. I would be using 4s batteries. Will this be a good enough motor with an RX-8? |
Originally Posted by mamdot91
(Post 13275681)
Guys running a 15t without sanding down the brace is a fine mesh?
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Originally Posted by mamdot91
(Post 13275681)
Guys running a 15t without sanding down the brace is a fine mesh?
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Originally Posted by cannonballs
(Post 13275345)
cool. my truck is on it way, be here tomorrow. Is there anything I MUST do during build? Any upgrades I MUST install? Thanks for the info, and yes I doing my best to ready the 188 pages fast I can :)
Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard
(Post 13274175)
A longer screw. the stock screw is a M4x10mm (TKR1443 on step L-3 page 18 of the manual). This only leaves a tiny bit of thread left in the case and the team is pretty sure this is causing it to break.
Many of us run a M4x14mm. I noticed it almost pops into the rear case but still clears everything. May want to try a M4x12mm if 14 makes you un easy. |
Originally Posted by cannonballs
(Post 13275345)
cool. my truck is on it way, be here tomorrow. Is there anything I MUST do during build? Any upgrades I MUST install? Thanks for the info, and yes I doing my best to ready the 188 pages fast I can :)
Other than that I think most are running more like 15-20-5 in the diffs vs. stock, otherwise handles great out of the box and then tuning for personal pref from there. I personally took a few turns of droop out of the front and stood up the shocks in the rear a bit to tune out some push exiting turns, but otherwise still running stock. |
my body is THINNER than a touring car body!!!
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I shoe goo and tape all my 8th scale off-road bodies.
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Quality of body seems like the one from my mini 8ight body. Or maybe that's even better than this ... Lol.
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I have a couple of cracks but otherwise is ok after 2 race days. I definitely need to tape and goo it to last, but using Velcro on the bottom forgoing the clips has helped a lot. That lets the body be supported from the bottom and has a little more give.
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I just bought a one race old ET48 from a friend of mine. Got a smoking deal on it RTR with 4- new 4s batteries. It has a 1700kv Tekin truggy motor on it with a Gen2 RX8. Has anyone else ran this motor? My other truggy which is a non Tekno I'm running a 1550kv motor on 5s and get 17 1/2 minutes run time. What kind of run time would I be looking at with the 1700kv? Just wondering in case I have to run with the nitros and might need to make a battery swap.
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 13274263)
I was able to make 20 on a 6500 SMC 4s with a 2000kv tekin combo with a 17t.
I'm going to change to a 16t and run 2x SMC 7200 2s and think I'll have plenty for a 20 and can take a practice lap an not hold back. |
looking for gearing tips
tekin 1350 kv gen 2 on 6s medium length straight |
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