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-   -   Tekno ET48 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/734427-tekno-et48-thread.html)

FastPete 05-18-2014 07:33 PM


Originally Posted by nitro0619 (Post 13272450)
I did a 20sec stop and go pit....i was using a trinity 6950Mah 4s pack. I put 5500Mah back in it. Think i coulda went another 5 mins easily!!!

Sweet thanks.

8ight-e 05-18-2014 10:07 PM

6s race setup for sale in about a week :) LMK if interested.. 1350kv tekin t8 motor new this year with 2 or 3 lipo's. (2) SMC hard case 4300mAH 40c and one gens ace 4500mAH 60c (gens ace is new never used specific for 20min a-mains) The 4300 packs will almost get you there as well ~19minutes racing HARD. This setup is ridiculous, but due to recent track rule changes I have to move to 4s.

reddeath360 05-19-2014 09:30 AM

anyone figure out how to stop there diff case from breaking from the rear chassi brace yet ?

nitro0619 05-19-2014 09:55 AM


Originally Posted by mourinho (Post 13272470)
What esc/motor and esc settings?

HW sct pro/tekin 2000kv truggy motor. Awesome combo imo!!!

boost addict 05-19-2014 10:47 AM


Originally Posted by reddeath360 (Post 13273859)
anyone figure out how to stop there diff case from breaking from the rear chassi brace yet ?

This. I've had it happen twice now.

reddeath360 05-19-2014 11:09 AM


Originally Posted by boost addict (Post 13274038)
This. I've had it happen twice now.

yup me two only takes one run to do it to I have given up on buying new cases

cpt_RedBeard 05-19-2014 11:56 AM


Originally Posted by reddeath360 (Post 13273859)
anyone figure out how to stop there diff case from breaking from the rear chassi brace yet ?


Originally Posted by boost addict (Post 13274038)
This. I've had it happen twice now.


Originally Posted by reddeath360 (Post 13274095)
yup me two only takes one run to do it to I have given up on buying new cases

A longer screw. the stock screw is a M4x10mm (TKR1443 on step L-3 page 18 of the manual). This only leaves a tiny bit of thread left in the case and the team is pretty sure this is causing it to break.

Many of us run a M4x14mm. I noticed it almost pops into the rear case but still clears everything. May want to try a M4x12mm if 14 makes you un easy.

Mizchief 05-19-2014 12:31 PM


Originally Posted by mamdot91 (Post 13271303)
Ok guys, currently in the build process and I am experiencing some difficulties. (First time build).

Basically its a very smooth build but the front and rear camber links are turning out to be a nightmare to screw together. I dont really have the proper tools to do so, which is why they start feeling VERY VERY tight and I cant screw them in enough to get the right lenghts. What tools do people use to assemble the front rear camber links? ALSO, is there any technique/tip/tricks involved when assembling the camber links? ANY sort of advice would help as simply trying to muscle then in isnt working for me AT ALL.

Also I understand that the camber ends are threaded as we screw the links in. Is that how its supposed to go down? Or am i supposed to thread them with something else before screwing the links in? I had no need to do so up till now in the process (as every plastic is freshly threaded when I insert screws), but maybe I should now? ANYWAY, HELP PLEASE! SOS CALL!


Eagerly waiting for replies! Thanks in advance.

I use a vice grip to hold onto the middle nut on the link, then use bare hands to get the thread started (and brute force) then use a screw driver tip through the eyelet to turn it the rest of the way in.

Mizchief 05-19-2014 12:34 PM


Originally Posted by mourinho (Post 13272470)
What esc/motor and esc settings?

I was able to make 20 on a 6500 SMC 4s with a 2000kv tekin combo with a 17t.

I'm going to change to a 16t and run 2x SMC 7200 2s and think I'll have plenty for a 20 and can take a practice lap an not hold back.

kawi650 05-19-2014 12:52 PM

My ET-48 sporting some fresh paint and some telemetry goodness. Battery voltage, motor temp, and speed all right there on my M12. :)

The holes for the brake linkage on the center diff mount are perfect for mounting the RPM sensor.

[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/841/qhyt.jpg[/IMG]

FastPete 05-19-2014 01:03 PM


Originally Posted by kawi650 (Post 13274293)
My ET-48 sporting some fresh paint and some telemetry goodness. Battery voltage, motor temp, and speed all right there on my M12. :)

The holes for the brake linkage on the center diff mount are perfect for mounting the RPM sensor.

[IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...0/841/qhyt.jpg[/IMG]

Sweet!!

Mizchief 05-19-2014 03:20 PM

Nice! Speaking of bodies anyone hear when ET stock bodies are coming back in stock? Would like to at least have a backup ready for AMS.

munrath 05-19-2014 03:41 PM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 13274595)
Nice! Speaking of bodies anyone hear when ET stock bodies are coming back in stock? Would like to at least have a backup ready for AMS.

You can purchase from www.teknorc.com as they are in stock.

Mark

8ight-e 05-19-2014 04:54 PM


Originally Posted by munrath (Post 13274651)
You can purchase from www.teknorc.com as they are in stock.

Mark

Did they thicken those shells yet or still the same thickness? Everyone has them covered w/ drywall tape and shoegoo on the inside to keep them from falling apart.

mkl 05-19-2014 07:27 PM

Ok, so I have been reading through this thread and am starting to get an irrational desire to buy one of these.
1. From what I gather, I would need a servo with at least 300oz of torque. Anybody have the Protek 170S?
2. it seems a lot of people like 2000kv truggy motor, but I have a 1900kv T8 buggy motor. I would be using 4s batteries. Will this be a good enough motor with an RX-8?


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