At first I thought y'all meant sanding the center diff holders and I wasn't going to do that. It's the center diff brace that limits the motor from sliding over. Took a little off the brace and the 14 fits perfectly.

Thanks

I might give that a shot.

What shock boots are those?

A standard mod 1 15 tooth.:batman::spidey:

I only cut into the side for easier access. You really dont have to.:batman::spidey:

Cool thats what i what I was thinking I`m running mod 1 15 pinion on my RC8T , will start with that on the ET 48

So anyone know if we are dealing w the same weak rear diff as the buggy right now? I bought a couple old version rear diff cases, debating on installing...

Haven't heard of any issues yet

That's what I said at first until I thought about it.

Conventional wisdom says go down on pinion size to increase lowend torque. For this reason you go to a smaller crank ring on a bicycle when going uphill. I your nitro monster truck wouldn't wheelie from a low speed punch, put a smaller pinion (clutchbell) on and wheelies come easily.

The way I understand it [not saying I'm right]:

Too small of a pinion and you'll just have wheel spin and a slow car. It'll be outside of its powerband running at high rpm with little load which is also no good for the motor. Too big of a pinion, again, the car will be outside of its powerband and will be a slug off the line. There will be plenty of torque measured at the crank (motor shaft) due to the increased load, but not at the axles where it counts. Pending the powerband and available traction, going up in pinion can produce a faster take off. As you keep going up, it will eventually reduce take off. So, if your motor has a nasty fat torque curve, increasing the pinion tooth count can make you car accelerate even harder.

I ran into this problem after converting my Revo to brushless. It would wheelie way to easily. I went up in pinion, it just looked stronger. I went up again...still flipping on it lid and starting to be come way too fast. I went up again, and finally, the wheelies became on demand instead of everytime I touched the throttle, but now it has way more than necessary top end. The real solution is to get a less stout motor.

I'm open totally open to hear what it is that I may be missing hear. No offense will be taken. I'm hear to learn.

I was looking at mine an if it was needed a 13t pinion will fit, just sand a hair more off the dif brace. I normally run tall gears, meaning when most are running say a 16t I like 18t in 1/8 buggy and truggy. You need a little more throttle control but I find the taller gearing make it easier to have control in mid jump or if you mess up coming up to a big jump taller gearing can bale you out sometimes. I just got home from a day of practice on a mid size indoor nicely groomed track. Right now this track is strictly 1/10, I never liked 1/10 so since it was the only track within many, many miles I bought an sct410. That thing is almost cheating imo, way too fast!!!... I've been begging the owner to let me take my et48 for a spin. I think she's starting to weaken......I even offered to let her touch it...Hehehehehe

Every motor has a (sweet spot )from my opinion the increased amp draw from putting a larger pinion is due to the fact that the motor has an increased load at low end which would mean less torque and more top end the way I'm understanding some of the recent theories on here is they are saying that a larger pinion will give you more low end power as well as top speed which makes no sense to me

It is a brushless thing.. you can get full torque immediately regardless of gearing if your lipo can keep up w/ the demand. So if you have reserve (in reference to the lipo) and you gear up (larger pinion) you will have more "effective" torque; power and speed. At some point it will get too big and these effects will fade and cause heat and stress on the system, but can also tame the feel a little as well. Again if the battery is not able to provide what the motor needs gearing down can increase the 'effective torque" or how it feels.

So the important thing to remember vs old wisdom, unlike the brushed motors and nitro motors you don't need the RPM's up to get the torque. This isn't super technical, but hopefully it makes sense :)

I give up

Bad Horsie Shock Covers Badhorsie.com

They're only $10 free shipping. I've had some on my EB48 for 6 months and they're still good! I always buy the ones you cut to length.

Here is the simplest term I know, don't worry about going up a tooth or 2, and some cases 3 teeth on your pinion! Go by feel and motor, esc temps. I have geared up many times, to tame a motor the esc couldn't. Track size, also dictates how far you should gear one way or the other....ect

Why what you went through is basically what I said.. at a point of gearing up you found where the lipo wasn't able to give what was needed and it felt less 'torquey'. Gear too low motor is hot because it's just spinning too fast not enough resistance in the system so it make heat and will destroy the motor in short time. If you go too high with gearing your ESC heats up and batteries will heat up as it cannot provide what the motor needs. Finding the sweet spot in gearing is important. You have a throttle end point on your radio that you shouldn't be afraid to use to limit your top end. On most tracks you will get the best lap times if you limit your top to what you need for the hardest feature on the track (biggest or hardest jump). These 1/8 almost always are over powered. I typically run 90-94% on my throttle end point. You also want to dial brakes almost out.. if you touch your brakes and flip over you have WAY too much, Most of the time I'm 50% or less on brakes, again you need to be able to stop but it shouldn't be so retarded you are screwing up your diff's flipping over or can't control yourself on jumps.