As I would be racing from time to time, I would be bashing around with a few friend a fair amount of the time as well. I would split it at a 50/50 kind of a deal. Having said that, I feel like going for 2250 (4s) or 1550 (6s) just because they have higher top speeds at normal gearing compared to their lower kv counterparts. I feel in a choice between 2000kv overgeared for the same speed as a 2250kv on normal gearing, 2250kv with normal gearing sounds like the better option, would you agree? Of course this is just my opinion, and as I said earlier, I do not have a whole lot of knowledge on the matter, so do let me know if im missing something.

between the choice of the 4s vs 6s setup, which one should I go for keeping in mind ill be bashing half the time as well. I havent bought any electronics or batteries yet, so none of that factors in.

Perfect, thank you for the info. you had it geared at a 14t when you got 130 in the main? Either way the temps look really cool which is very promising. I just have to make a decision between a 4s or a 6s setup now.

#1 check your local rules if there are any.. I don't know of anyone who wont allow 6s configs racing now except full on roar events. They are always behind the times.

#2 do you have the means to charge 6s effectively?

If both those give you a green for 6s, remember higher voltage is always better.. less amp draw. This equals happier ESC's and Happier LIPO's over time. Motor temp, and abuse is consistent on any voltage if your are setup properly.

Highly recommend the HW 150a esc, best choice of them all iMO
Highly recommend the Tekin truggy motors


BTW I raced the last three years and have had a ton of success on the tekin 1550kv 6s, you can easily race w/ this config if you are any good at all. Note this was with an 8ight-te so it was easier to gear properly. The ET48 is a bit more limited in gearing options, so the 1350kv does make more sense in this rig, but you can EASILY race w/ the 1550kv motor.

GL

I think over gearing is never a great idea. If I was in your situation both racing and bashing I would go 4s and have two motors. The 2250 for bashing and a 2000 for racing. When I first started racing I ran a Castle 2200 for one season, good motor but maybe a tad too much power for me at that time. I hear the Tekin 2250 is even stronger. Another factor to consider is the price of packs. I don't buy 6s packs but I'll bet they're more expensive than 4s.

heck, honestly I don't see how bashing with a 2000Kv motor isn't possible to get the same kind of speed and enjoyment as yo uwould with the 2200 whatever motor.

If the motor can pull the gearing, and the truggies motors can pretty easily at that, I would just settle on the 2000Kv and go from there.

Packs are all the same if they have the same overall energy.

Extremely appreciate all the detailed responses! I am definitely going with the hw 150a esc. As for the motor I am going to take another day or two to make my final decision. Very excited either way since it all seems like one big green light ahead haha.

...which is what I said concerning removal of the center diff. Come to find out, that's nothing compared to the 21** screws required to remove the servo! Good gravy. I like this thing, but hamburger. It's still less painful than doing the same on a DEX410. On the bright side, I have a new popular brand servo this time, so hopefully it will not need replacement or repair anytime soon.



** if you use all screw instructed and route wires under the ESC.

The reason I thought a 1550kv motor on 6s might be too much is I tried racing a Castle 1520 1y 1600kv motor using a 5s pack. It had way too much power, I couldn't even imagine running it with a 6s pack. I do realize that particular Castle motor is real beast, it's huge in comparison. The 1550 on 6s must be a real rocket! LOL

I'll find out soon.

Had a driveshaft break today. Noticed the out drives on the rear are both like this after 15-20 packs thru it. Tekno, please make some harder out drives.

That's no bueno. Good traction + big tires + aggressive driving = need for hard outdrives. Has this been an issue with the EB48?

Not even close to the same wear on the buggies

I got my eb first batch, I'm still running the same outdrives and they look real good so do the pins on the shafts.

A video would be real nice!!!