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Hey guys I was able to get back out and try a few changes to the ET48. First I'd agree with others that the 10/15/5 should be the starting point. Thus truggy turned in over the e-buggy and SC on a very small tight track. To help lock the rear end in a little more the rear camber link is full short and low on the tower and 1 hole out on the hub with 1 degree of camber (Thanks Daniel). I'm thinking that 7 might be better in the rear diff over the 5 but I'll test that at Motorama.
Mark |
Originally Posted by munrath
(Post 12990056)
Hey guys I was able to get back out and try a few changes to the ET48. First I'd agree with others that the 10/15/5 should be the starting point. Thus truggy turned in over the e-buggy and SC on a very small tight track. To help lock the rear end in a little more the rear camber link is full short and low on the tower and 1 hole out on the hub with 1 degree of camber (Thanks Daniel). I'm thinking that 7 might be better in the rear diff over the 5 but I'll test that at Motorama.
Mark |
Originally Posted by egobrkr
(Post 12984889)
I agree. You don't need a bunch of spares. I would spend money on tuning parts like springs, pistons, oils and tires. I have a ton of tekno parts that just sit. The two things I would say to get are a spare set of shock shafts and a set of hing pins. Thats about it.
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With a 2000kv t8 4s lipo and 15t what speeds are you guys getting?
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Originally Posted by metoo
(Post 12988347)
Thanks, but I never said/implied anything about play. I was just trying to find the best way to remove the center diff.
I was looking at sliding the shaft coupler off the rear diff pinion in order to remove the rear center drive shaft. This would allow me to simply remove the rear center diff mount and slide the center diff our rearward. 5 screws total. However, the engagement length of coupler on the rear diff pinion shaft is longer than the space between coupler's slot bottom and the dog bone (rear center shaft). So it appears its a 9 screw effort, of which 3 have loctite. My truggy won't be here until Thursday. Sorry man. |
Originally Posted by metoo
(Post 12988347)
Thanks, but I never said/implied anything about play. I was just trying to find the best way to remove the center diff.
I was looking at sliding the shaft coupler off the rear diff pinion in order to remove the rear center drive shaft. This would allow me to simply remove the rear center diff mount and slide the center diff our rearward. 5 screws total. However, the engagement length of coupler on the rear diff pinion shaft is longer than the space between coupler's slot bottom and the dog bone (rear center shaft). So it appears its a 9 screw effort, of which 3 have loctite. Mark |
Originally Posted by mamdot91
(Post 12990494)
With a 2000kv t8 4s lipo and 15t what speeds are you guys getting?
Mark |
Originally Posted by munrath
(Post 12990799)
Metoo - If you slide the motor out of the motor mount you can remove the center diff by removing the bottom 5 screws.
Mark 2 mounting the center brace to chassis 3 mounting the motor mount to the chassis 2 mounting the rear diff stand to the chassis 2 mounting the diff cover to the rear diff stand I'm not sure it you actually managed a 5 screw method, or just forgot about the diff cover and that the chassis brace which is attached as well. That's at least another 3 screws to deal with plus the 2 (for a total of 10) that your remove to get the motor out....which I still do not understand the benefit of. A step by step instruction would help me if you wouldn't mind typing it out. |
Originally Posted by mamdot91
(Post 12990494)
With a 2000kv t8 4s lipo and 15t what speeds are you guys getting?
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Originally Posted by metoo
(Post 12991015)
I don't get it. The motor doesn't hinder removal of the center diff. As I see it, there is a 9 screw minimum effort:
2 mounting the center brace to chassis 3 mounting the motor mount to the chassis 2 mounting the rear diff stand to the chassis 2 mounting the diff cover to the rear diff stand I'm not sure it you actually managed a 5 screw method, or just forgot about the diff cover and that the chassis brace which is attached as well. That's at least another 3 screws to deal with plus the 2 (for a total of 10) that your remove to get the motor out....which I still do not understand the benefit of. A step by step instruction would help me if you wouldn't mind typing it out. |
Originally Posted by egobrkr
(Post 12991187)
The 5 on the bottom holding the mount. The 4 holding the top plate and the rear and center braces if you still have them on. That should be it to get the diff out. I never took the motor off to do the center diff. I can make a video if you need it.
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Hey grim I see you are in Michigan. Me and scorpion are coming up march 8 to ams. Have you raced there? Whats the track like for tires?
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Originally Posted by egobrkr
(Post 12992120)
Hey grim I see you are in Michigan. Me and scorpion are coming up march 8 to ams. Have you raced there? Whats the track like for tires?
Mark |
Originally Posted by egobrkr
(Post 12991187)
The 5 on the bottom holding the mount. The 4 holding the top plate and the rear and center braces if you still have them on. That should be it to get the diff out. I never took the motor off to do the center diff. I can make a video if you need it.
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SERVOS
Okay, so I found out withing 10 minutes that I made a bad choice in steering servo. There have been several postings of the servos you guys are using. My question is,.. What would you say is the minimum torque and minimum speed for truggy racing? |
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