http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/...T/DSCN0036.jpg

With those tires it's 18 1/2" wide. The paddles are close to an inch wider than truggy tires.

Yes they do i`m also waiting just click on the link when they are going to be back in stock send them your email address and whala they will contact you when they are back in stock ;):nod:

Gotta few questions:

Finally had a chance to get the ET rolling undter power (servo finally arrived). First off, I have a 14T pinion and 2000kv T8 truggy motor. It's mad fast and torquey. I was just running it on the street. I see no need to run any larger pinion on the small to medium tracks I'll be going to.

1) Is there a quick trick to get the center diff out? It appears the rear diff engagement to the coupler is just a bit too long to slide the coupler off to free the center diff.

2) Seems my center diff is leaking thru the screw holes on the rear or from the rear shaft. I took all the precautions during the build to prevent shaft leak though. I'm using 15K. Other than making sure to use the black grease well, is there another way to prevent shaft leak? If its from the screw holes, I'll put the screw and treat the threads with Vibratite. EDIT: The screw holes go all the way thru the diff case/cup, but the screws are relatively short. Seems that the unused volume of the holes were full of fluid. I pulled the center diff, blew out the holes, wiped it down, reinstall, ran it again, and there was no mess.

3) I got a good bit of dust from the pinion eating at the spur. The mesh is good tho. I have four other Mod1 vehicles and never had this issue without it being do to a loose motor. Do Tekno gears go thru a break-in?

4) I see a few guys are limiting the current to their motors. Now I see why. I assume they all have RX8s. Is there an equivalent setting on a Viper VTX8. I just got it so I'm not too familiar with it yet. I know it doesn't have a feature called "Motor current". EDIT: I found it. It's called "Forward Power" with settings between 50-100%. I haven't fooled with it yet, but that seems to be it.

what I was told that the pouch level is like a limted I was told you you et down to setting of level 3 then try from there

OK ur first question about the play in the pinion shaft, I took some clutch (nitro) bell shims from a losi kit. And took out alittle bit of play, I put the shims in behind the coupler. I did leave a hair of play.

The center diff? Did u over fill the diff and diff oil ran down onto the Screw holes. And then by running the truggy.the oil got slung out???? This happened to me on my buggy build.and did u sand ur diff case before putting it together? I didn't, I had to do it all over again after.my first race night.

Thats all I know bro i take the center diff and brace out at one time.

I hope I helped u out man.

Has anyone tried mounting the nt48 body on the et48 yet. If so post up some pics.:nod:

Thanks Jones, now I have a good idea of what premounted badlands would look like. I think I might put in the extra effort and mount them on VTRs.

and S.Tripp do we always have to sand down a centre diff? Is it mandatory? :/ ... Isnt it supposed to function properly right out of the box?

After cutting my body after getting it back from the painters, it is clearly a little off spec... I mean there is no way tekno would want their truggy body to be thinner than their buggy body. I'd almost say this is worse than the injection issue w/ the rear diff's. I guess I sent my body out to the painters to quickly w/o inspection to see how bad it was. As I noted before drywall mesh and shoegoo will be used to help, but Tekno.. you have to get this fixed. There is no reason to shave weight on a truggy, especially w/ the body! LOL

I did it to all 3 diffs in the buggy and I will do the same in the truggy also when I get it. It makes a true flat surface for the diff gasket to seal to.

Thanks, but I never said/implied anything about play. I was just trying to find the best way to remove the center diff.

I was looking at sliding the shaft coupler off the rear diff pinion in order to remove the rear center drive shaft. This would allow me to simply remove the rear center diff mount and slide the center diff our rearward. 5 screws total. However, the engagement length of coupler on the rear diff pinion shaft is longer than the space between coupler's slot bottom and the dog bone (rear center shaft). So it appears its a 9 screw effort, of which 3 have loctite.

Badlands + VTR (on 1/2 offset).

http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9281dde0.jpg

Only problem with that pic is that its not on an ET48. Does that truggy have the width, hex to hex, as an ET48?

Serpent's E-Truggy body is thin too. I'm not sold its a issue or think it warrants demands for fixes.

I thought VTRs were zero offset??? Im so confused

The ones on Proline's site are zero. I figured he has some 1/2" offset VTR's that are discontinued or sum'm.