I finally raced my 3.0 E. I'm wanting a spring rate between sliver and green for the rear.

Whats your buggy weighing in at?

I have not weighed it. It is hard to tell the difference between my Nitro and my Electric though. I run a 6S setup and it's pretty light for not having any aftermarket parts except for ones that I designed that don't save weight.

what about trying different shock positions

6s Ben! 1500-1700kv I imagine.

Hey guys. Forgive me if it's been mentioned but how much of my 2.0-e will fit on the 3.0-e chassis? Anyone having success upgrading from 2.0-e?

Bye the time you purchase everything for the upgrade you will have spent enough for a new kit.

Lets say i'm mostly interested in whats happening under the body. Slim chassis, battery mount system, servo housing, new esc layout, etc. Will my front and rear end bolt on and function properly?

Look at part numbers on both the manuals. See what matches otherwise it's different. By the time you buy everything you most likely spend as much as the buggy cost. My advise would be sell your 2.0 and just buy the 3.0

Buy a new kit. Really having a hard time understanding why people have yet to listen to the 100+ posts stating BUY A NEW KIT. Dont take offense. But for future buyers..... WE ARE NOT LYING BUY A NEW KIT. ITS WORTH EVERY PENNY.

Point taken JasonR/C but many of us out there are budget guys who just like to have fun. If I had the money I'd totally buy the kit but at $650 it's not gonna happen. If I can do the chassis and some of the chassis parts for $150 I'm gonna do it.

That being said, who can actually answer my question? Will the 2.0 front and rear end mount onto the 3.0-e chassis? Thanks.

I believe one of the posts above answered your question..... Very simple to look at both manuals and compare part numbers. Just takes a couple minutes.....

It will mount but not without issues. You will need the new droop screws or the old ones will quickly tear up your chassis. But the new screws only fit the new arms. And the new arms only work with the new uprights. And the new uprights only work with the new spindles....starting to see why everybody is saying to just get the whole kit? I didn't even mention the center bones. No way your gonna be anywhere near $150. Just the chassis and body is about $130, then you need motor mounts, batt tray, servo mount, etc....

The 2.0 is a great car. If your on a budget, then just get the new shocks and standoffs. That will help a lot more than the chassis.

Sell ur ride plus take that 150 extra u got and get a 3.0 when u get enough. Not worth upgrading older car. I got mine for 571 after taxes and I believe stormer has them at 550 right now.

Ben I would suggest you try silvers with a 2.5 bar (if still running a 2.3) or standing the shock up on the tower. As a last resort cutting a coil or 2 off of the silver will give you an in-between. I have not done this in a long time but cutting coils will make it stiffer.