Couple pics of my fresh buggy. First weekend racing it on Saturday and I have to run in nitro buggy with it. 20 minute main. I've got an idea to pack the buggy with two 4s protek slim packs (which are only slightly heavier together than a big 4s and the same size together as one) so my battery swap is as easy as just switching the battery lead to the next battery. I know I can pull off 10-12 min pretty safe with the slim protek 4s back home so the two should get me through but I'm concerned with a bigger track layout burning up my packs quicker. Have to burn some laps and see how they hold up. I did bring standard 4s packs on the trip in case they don't last. Pretty pumped to run it though!

looks awesome. Thanks guys for posting. Mines coming alont. Done with build and painted body. Now waiting for usps on the rest. Green looks so crapola in this pic. So much better in person

That's pretty cool!

nice paint job dude!

Why don't you just run the two in parallel and then you don't even have to come in for a pit?

Good idea. Thanks!


Ill to try to get a parallel connector from the hobby shop or have them make one as I didn't travel with the soldering iron. Only had so much room in my luggage. Back home when E runs with nitro they have to either do a pack swap if needed or do a stop and go regardless to keep things fair but yes a parallel connection is the way to go I think.

I'm building this kit and have found a inaccuracy on C-1 they have 3501 part which is a metal shim then the rubber O ring part number 3505 going on top of that shim. Isn't that supposed to be the other way around?

What page # and step are you looking at? Page 22, c1-2? If so you're right, skip to page #27 and go off of step D1.

yeah, its wrong. pg 27 is right. its oring then metal shim then pin

3.0 running video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8MJrUKHog8

Loving the car. It's really stiff so far with the kit setup with non kit oils and 5/5/3, but the car needs more time to break in. It was cold as well, so temperature has an effect.

I'm not a fan of the different sized hole pistons in a 4wd car. What do most people run?

Did you squeeze the camber ball ends with pliers to get the balls to move freely? If not, the balls are are way to tight. Causes major binding. Also, the hinge pins in the arms are way to tight. I reamed on them for a while and finally gave up. Figured the hinge pins will break in eventually or at least break in on the bushings.

The problem with the hinge pins/a-arms is the molding is such that the holes in the two sections of the A-arms that pivot on the pin don't line up. The pin will be free in each half individually but when you put it through both halves it binds. Been this way since the 8 1.0 on all the a-arms I have used. I use a 1/8" chain saw file going through both holes at the same time to remove the binding.

anyone have a indoor clay setup rather then the box setup?

Got my E 3.0 on the track for the first time last weekend, very impressed with it. I have a question on shock setup. After watching a video in slo mo of the buggy going down a straight with small high frequency bumps. It seems the shocks are packing up and my wheels are bouncing off the track. Using kit setup for shocks, its at 3400g and balance is 50/50 L to R and just off center to the rear. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Was thinking of dropping oil weight all around, but wouldnt that pack earlier or easier?

How does this buggy compare to a serpent 811e?

Im looking to move into this class.

I can get a pretty good deal on a used serpent that's why I ask.