Blitzrockey

iTrader: (33)

I am thinking of trying this mod, but the car works so well as it is I don't want to mess it up. We run on a loose outdoor track that's why I don't want to take more weight off the back, but I may try. I still have yet to try the truggy castor blocks as im not sure if I should be adding more droop or if it will even help on the type of track I run on. If anyone has any advise feel free to chime in. Thanks.

LAGuy

iTrader: (5)

It looks like the right front corner of the battery tray needs to be shaved down a bit as well.

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

It's not something you can't undo. If you don't like it put it back. The advantage is it gives better steering off power. Don't forget to reset your ride height after. There's no right answer on droop because that will change depending on track conditions and what you want from the car. Try starting at 102-103 mm. If it ever quits raining in Houston I'll take a pic.

Blitzrockey

iTrader: (33)

Just threw them on will try it and see how it is tomorrow. Was always looking for a tad more off power steering.

c00lguy

Hello all. I think I might have asked this question before but cant find my post.

What are the differences between the RTR version and the kit? I plan on getting the RTR version soon. I know that the shock caps and shock towers are different. Is there anything else? Thanks

buster8787

I have the RTR. Save the frustration and get the kit. The servo sucks and I finally had to drill out the A-arms and replace the camber links to get the suspension to move. This after squeezing them with pliers atleast 20 times. You're going to replace the caps and the towers and that's going to cost atleast $100. A decent servo is another $100 so you may as well just get the kit and get the electronics separately.

buster8787

A bit of trimming

c00lguy

Thanks for the reply. Do you know if any 1/8th scale motor and esc will fit? I have 1/8th scale electronics off of a Kyosho GT2 on-road car. Also, average how long does it normally take to build a kit?

I also want to ask what the main differences are with RTR and kit. I might get the RTR and the kit to use for backup parts. I dont have much time to build it and it will be hard to hide it from the wife while building.

Thanks.

buster8787

I don't know which parts cross over. If I were you (and I'm not), I would just buy parts as I break them. I made a good sized order to A main and got A arms and stuff you usually break. Cost like $150.
As far as electronics ? That's up to you. My buddy has been running at the front for the last 2 years with a Hobby King 1900kv motor and ESC. Cheap motors and seems pretty reliable. I have had good luck with Tekin stuff.

PS. I have no idea what electronics you already have. You are looking for the fastest motors on the market and will need a 4 cell battery to power it. These buggies are nutso fast. If you are new to the hobby, you might want to start with something a bit more drivable like a short course before your first race ends up with your nice new car in pieces because you can't handle it. Remember it's not about speed, its control.

NickTheGreek

iTrader: (1)

I have the kit.....and i cant get the suspension to move either.

......and when i do get it to move/rebound a lil, after a battery pack, its back to the same story.
I figured it would break in....Instead, im getting the opposite effect.

.......which is freakin' annoying cause the buggy is awesome...you know it has great shocks, and instead of feeling them working, the suspension is a mess.

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

As posted many times, squeeze the crap out of the links with pliers. That usually does it. I have 2 buggies with perfectly free suspension sitting here and that's all it took. And I did it to someone else's RTR a couple weeks ago and it worked. If it doesn't, put some toothpaste or rubbing compound on the ball and use a drill to spin it in the link. If that doesn't work, you can sacrifice one of the balls and score the ball. You'll need a spare since you won't want to use that one any more. Spin it in the link with a drill. These are all old tricks. 8ight 3.0 isn't the first vehicle to have tight camber links.

Check your hinge pins for free A-arm movement also. If they don't move freely, just a light reaming with a drill bit should do it. I use the biggest bit that will fit easily into the A-arm hole. You're not looking to remove a bunch of material. Usually a quick spin does it. Again, old tricks.

Matthew Bailey

I drill out all of arms after I install the droop screws. The droop screws make the inner hinge pins bind. I use a 4.2mm drill bit. Fixes the problem right away. The camber links are a curious problem. I have never had any of mine binding, but lots of people do. I guess I got lucky.

Blitzrockey

iTrader: (33)

Anyone ever have the steering link pull out of adjustment ?

NickTheGreek

iTrader: (1)

i was actually thinking to myself earlier today if the droop screw might have something to do with the binding....My links in the front are a bit freer than the ones in the back yet its the front where the problem is more pronounced....so im thiniking its more than just the rod ends.
i guess i'll do a lil more squeezing n drill out the arms a hair and see what happens.

buster8787

I remember all of this. I squeezed them atleast 20 times, boiled them, heat gunned them and I gave up and just replaced the POS. Drilled out the A arms and now they are just ok. It's something in the shocks. (and no they aren't bent). New springs are on order.

Now getting back to the other guy, I would not recommend the RTR. It's a giant headache that I'm actually considering selling because of this.