Ok guys, I have a suspension on a Losi 8eight e 3.0 rtr which will not rebound. Press down on the car and it will rebound about 1/2 inch and that is all. I have squeezed the turnbuckle ends after using a hairdryer on them and even dipped them in boiling water atleast 4 times and they will not loosen up. Is my next step reaming them? Or just all around replacing them? Now the hinge pins seem especially stiff to move. Should these move freely? Any help would be great.

Hinge pins should be free, if not get a reamer of the same size and ream out the arms, also use mothers to polish the pins. Don't boil or use a hair drier on the ball cups, simply use a pair of pliers to squeeze the cups with them connected to the ball. Grip the cup with the pliers, over the ball and squeeze the handle several times, 5 or 6, firmly and the cup WILL loosen up. It doesn't matter what brand car it is, this will work every time. If you try and it didnt, you simply didn't squeeze the cup hard enough to stretch it. In the end all that is taking place is a slight stretching of the plastic.

It's definitely the hinge pins then. thanx for the reply

No problem, if you can't twist the turnbuckle by hand just get rough with the pliers haha

Also can be shock shaft, dirty shock oil, and sway bar to tight. You can disconnect all to isolate the problem.

Regarding the truggy caster blocks, where is the best place to shim them? In the center?
What is the best shims to get for this. Thanks

Also will this mod give me more off power steering ? Just looking for s little bit more. Thanks.

I was twisting so hard last night that the metal was popping out

What nut driver have you found that works with the 4-40 nut on the shock cap? All the ones I have are to large of a diameter to fit between the cap and the nut.

I use dynamite nut driver set for this, it has two nut drivers I can use in its 5pc set, one for all the 40-4 nuts and one for those who holds shock mounts.

Hi folks,

Last time out with my 8ight-E 3.0 RTR, I cranked the AVC up & at low speed, i.e. not even walking pace, the servo would pull full tilt to the left, with no steering input from me.

This spooked me enough to not attempt to drive with AVC sensitivity beyond minimum, as I didn't want this randomly happening at speed.

So my question is, is this normal AVC operation for low speed use?
I know the benefits are most felt at high speed, but is this sounding like a fault, or nothing to worry about.
The car's fantastic with AVC turned right down, so won't miss it terribly..

Cheers
K

Shim it all the way forward. I put a bearing from the SCTE rack in behind the caster. Switch the screws, put the long screw through the back of the caster. I would add about 2-3mm of droop as it puts the axle at a different height. Check your ride height as well. Indoors it seemed to give more overall steering. I can't tell outdoors if it will be the way to go or not.

I haven't had this problem. I generally turn everything on and let it sit for a few seconds so the AVC can calibrate.

Oops.. yep, that could well be the problem.. thanks for that, much appreciated!

Ill see how she works, thanks for the info. I actualy took it out today again, just getting used to the car as I had a serpent before. This has a lot of corner speed. And I just have to drive it a bit different. Once I did that it started to handle a lot better and actualy had a lot of steering on and off power. I have the weight kit coming also and will try that. Im running the drake outdoor setup with diffs at 5-5-3. Any other tips to maybe get a bit more steering? I think the weights may help?

I run the 40 gram weight, battery and esc flipped (so battery up front), green springs all around, and i run a trinity 6950 4s. I like the car heavy about 8.2lbs roughly.