Ha ha ha. Will do.

5 hole stk pistons or 8 hole pistons with the splits n rear what can I expect....running on indoor clay decent size jumps...does one have more traction, jumps better etc etc...

I have the RTR version. Will battery forward make a big difference for it? I find that the rtr tends to land nose first over jumps anyways. But if that battery forward helps overall handling, I'll probably try it.

Do the dome wheels that come with this kit have a different offset than, say, aka evo wheels? I notice that there seems to be a deeper recess for the wheel nut, but wondering if other wheels are just as compatible.

1/8 buggy wheels are 1/8 buggy wheels, Everything is compatible within reason. 99% of rims have similar if not Identical offset.

I did a similar thing yesterday but i only ripped the shock shaft out of the ball cup and bent the drive shaft, the shock shaft is still fine. It was all my fault due to showing off by clearing a quad of jumps in one go and landing badly. The nitro boys take the quad as a double double

5 7 3 in diffs. Last indoor race. Front tires wearing twice as fast. First outdoor race on loose track I switched to 5 5 3. Same result different tires. Fronts still wearing faster. Lots of wheel spin. Each qualifier I turned down punch. Any suggestions for more even wear.

All the weight is in the back .... Put 10 in center and give it a shot . You may be wearing the fronts coming out of the corners , a stiffer rear set up may help keep some of the weight from transferring to the rear.

What is the fastest and quickest way to change diff fluids, front, center and rear?
I recently bought a used 8ight e 3.0 for my first 1/8 scale car. Unfortunately I did not put it together so I don't know the car as well as I should. I would like to change the diff fluids before taking it to a race. To access the front diff is in necessary to remove the entire front clip; shocks, arms and all or is there a short cut or quicker way? Same thing with the rear. Do I remove the entire rear clip, ? I was hoping to find video that would walk me through getting to the diffs, but couldn't find one.
Thanks

I always remove the clips it provides me with the ability to check hinge pins for free movement and at the same time I clean and regrease the CV joints. It seems like a lot to get to the diff's but goes rather quickly after doing it a few times.

It's paint in the ass to access front and rear diffs in 8ight 3.0. Maaaany screws to remove. Don't know other buggies, but with RC8.2e or MBX7 it's like 4 time less time consuming. Not to mention new Dex8...
And fitting the rear diff in with bearing inserts + shims is something that requries a lot of patience...

Ryobi 4V drill amongst the best $30 I ever spent on RC. Slow enough that it doesn't strip screws going into plastic, adjustable torque.

That's one nice thing abut the Durangos.....the easy diff access....
They've had that for years.....I just picked up a dex408 and that's definitely one of its best ,if not best feature....It also looks pretty damn good....
.....but so does the 8e 3.0

Took the Durango out for its first spin earlier today...I love it....but...it ain't a 8e 3.0...
These 3.0's are freakin' awesome.

A lil snapshot of the two gangstas....

Thanks.

So no clearance issues at all using AKA Evo Wheels with this car?

Nope....I use AKA EVO wheels all the time on my 3.0 nitro and electric.