Hello. Thanks again for the reply. PM me if you are selling the RTR in the near future.

I think you should remove the shocks from the tower and see if it still has the issue when you manually move the suspension. Your probably right though. Sounds like it's the shocks. Sounds like the piston isn't straight or something. Thanks

I keep bending my front shock shafts. Second race weekend the same thing. This has never happened when i raced rc8.2e last year (on the same track). What is going on here? Thinking of switching those shocks to different brand...

Hey guys quick question what pitch pinon do i need? I have a 32p but it wont mesh at all, and from my searching i think the spur gear is a 48?

You want a MOD 1 pinion

OK, I'll keep you in mind, but the plan is for now to just soldier on. I think it's the way the car was packaged with the springs compressed pretty hard. I rolled the piston and shaft and they seemed fine and straight. And the problem is on the front and back. I think I might try stretching the springs out a bit or just replacing the springs. If new springs doesn't work, I guess I have no option left but new shocks and from a different manufacturer.

If for some odd reason you can't get your 3.0 shocks to work, you can still use Losi's. 2.0 shocks will work with some tricks (like 3.0 shock shafts and D8 Truggy rod ends).

Hey guys, first time posting on here. I've been lurking on here for a bit though. I read somewhere in this thread about people questioning the weight difference of the battery forward mod. As I have two 8ight 3.0 cars I have one set up with the battery stock and one the battery forward. Here is the pictures on the scales.

(you'll have to copy and paste the links because I don't have 10 posts yet I can't post links, sorry)

Hobbywing SCT-Pro with a 2250kv motor, brass weight, front overdrive gear, aluminum steering saver and arm, Pro-line wheels, brass shock pistons and green springs all the way around.

facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10155616392370277&l=77634a0607

Tekin RX8 Gen2 with a 2050kv motor, stock springs and TLR wheels.

facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10155616392450277&l=6c23d6f899

As you can see from the pictures moving the battery forward is worth 1% weight shift. I'm not sure how much of a difference the two different motors and ESC's make but this should be pretty close for comparison.

I made the change and noticed that the car runs front heavy. I helps on the small jumps/bumps to keep the nose down. But on the bigger jumps, the nose stays down but a quick burp in the air solves this. Better on power in turn traction also. Besides, you can fairly easily put the car back to the way it was if you don't like it. It's not a major mod.

I ran the Truggy Castor block and battery forward mod last night. Buggy has always had an off power push. These two mods fixed the issue. Lots of off power steering. I was able, for the first time, to turn in under guys and take the spot. Corner off didn’t seem to suffer at all. I reduced both front and rear droop. Went from 103.5 to 102 front and 113.5 to 109 rear. Kept ride height the same in the rear, 29 mm, and lowered the front –1 to 28 mm. I will try thicker center diff oil and thicker shock oil next time out. Overall a great change. Very pleased so far.

Hobbywing SCT-Pro with a 2250kv motor, brass weight, front overdrive gear, aluminum steering saver and arm, Pro-line wheels, brass shock pistons and green springs all the way around
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...7634a0607&_rdr


Tekin RX8 Gen2 with a 2050kv motor, stock springs and TLR wheels.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...c23d6f899&_rdr

The buggy with the hobbywing setup is your old car.

Thought it might be the Tekin one based on the radio box lid. have you driven them back to back yet

.

I have not. I took yours to the race tonight and only got to run a few laps of practice before the hobbywing setup took a dump on me. I still have a little bit of tuning to do on it. I'm not real fond of how it likes to jump nose high vs. the battery forward mod. As soon as I get the ESC issue fixed I'll take them both and run them back to back.

I have broke 3 right front Spindles in the past 2 weeks of racing. Im sorry but thats not normal at all. Is there a fix out there or a mod that guys are doing to help this out? I see the aluminum ones are backordered (not sure if I wanna bend or break them lol).

Let me know if there is something I can do to help stop spending $15 per race

If anyone needs some LF sprindles I will make you a deal!

That's weird. The fact it's always RF sounds like there's a problem elsewhere that's snapping the spindle. Something binding and locking up? Or is there a pipe somewhere that the right side of your car keeps getting acquainted with? Been running the 8ight since the 1.0 and have never broken a spindle.