2LikesTLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
01-06-2015 | 04:32 PM
#2761
Casper, and anyone else: what tires are you running indoors when he track starts to dry out a bit? CAr gets floaty, and wheel spins pretty badly. Have typos (no good), Electrons (also no good), and bar codes (so far the best of the bunch). Thinking of trying a set of Panthers, but which ones? Clay is similar to old West Coast RC clay. Also trying to get this Tekin system sorted out. Should I limit more current when the track becomes bad like this?
01-06-2015 | 10:59 PM
#2762
TLR 8ight 3.0E body but you need to trim the left hand side vent into flat and cover it with a piece of lexan body cutouts.
01-06-2015 | 11:12 PM
#2763
Hey everyone,
First of all I just want to say that I am new to the forum, and am really excited to be here
Ive had some experience with RC's before having owned a savage flux and now a baja 5b. I recently got a TLR 8ight-E 3.0 and am so excited. This thing handles amazingly and is so fast. Before this I haven't raced any of my cars at a track, but with this kit I will. I just had a couple of questions though.
Firstly, is there a good well-rounded setup in terms of shock springs and oil? My ride hight is good but I'm finding that there isn't much rebound on them. I also need setup that will be good to race with as well. The website for my local track I will be racing on is lrrccc, incase any of you wanted to see it (with the www and .com, just can't post links yet)
Lastly, what is the difference between the two different ackerman plates included in the kit? I know the long one is standard but I just wanted to know what the smaller one would do to the car.
Thanks guys, appreciate it
First of all I just want to say that I am new to the forum, and am really excited to be here
Ive had some experience with RC's before having owned a savage flux and now a baja 5b. I recently got a TLR 8ight-E 3.0 and am so excited. This thing handles amazingly and is so fast. Before this I haven't raced any of my cars at a track, but with this kit I will. I just had a couple of questions though.
Firstly, is there a good well-rounded setup in terms of shock springs and oil? My ride hight is good but I'm finding that there isn't much rebound on them. I also need setup that will be good to race with as well. The website for my local track I will be racing on is lrrccc, incase any of you wanted to see it (with the www and .com, just can't post links yet)
Lastly, what is the difference between the two different ackerman plates included in the kit? I know the long one is standard but I just wanted to know what the smaller one would do to the car.
Thanks guys, appreciate it
look on tlr website, the team driver of losi got heaps of set up mainly drake and phend, you gonna love your 8 3.0E as soon you dialed it up! love mine!
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...002#prodSetups
01-07-2015 | 06:33 AM
#2764
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 273
can someone tell me or post a link of what metal spur i need if i want to go that route...
This isnt pertaining to the car itself, but if im running a mm2 with eiher a 2200/2650 and a spektrum s6100 servo, will i need an external bec??
thanks
This isnt pertaining to the car itself, but if im running a mm2 with eiher a 2200/2650 and a spektrum s6100 servo, will i need an external bec??
thanks
01-07-2015 | 03:05 PM
#2765
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 103
Noob question
Hey guys picked up a couple cars (8ight 3.0, SCTE 2.0, and 22-4) to get back into it. Decided to go with TLR, since I raced with them (original JRX2) back in the day (25 years ago).
What things should i look for on my E3.0 since it's used? Thanks
What things should i look for on my E3.0 since it's used? Thanks
01-07-2015 | 03:10 PM
#2766
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,610
From: Vancouver, Washington
Only way to be totally sure is to completely tear it down.
01-07-2015 | 03:14 PM
#2767
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 103
When rebuilding the diffs do you use motor spray to clean all the metal parts or is wiping them down good enough? I'll need to pick up some fluid. How long in between diff rebuilds? Thanks for tip. Can't wait to get this dialed!
01-07-2015 | 10:33 PM
#2768
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,610
From: Vancouver, Washington
Motor spray. As far as diffs go, I would take a look after 8-9 full Rae days.
01-08-2015 | 11:30 AM
#2769
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 184
look on tlr website, the team driver of losi got heaps of set up mainly drake and phend, you gonna love your 8 3.0E as soon you dialed it up! love mine!
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...002#prodSetups
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...002#prodSetups
If it is, which is best on outdoor loose and rough track?
01-08-2015 | 07:24 PM
#2770
Jconcept silencer is better if you modified your battery tray setup(forward) and more cab forward body, the TLR stock body is good on cornering because of the panel or fin at the back of the cab.
01-08-2015 | 07:28 PM
#2771
01-09-2015 | 04:23 AM
#2772
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 184
01-09-2015 | 06:47 PM
#2774
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 273
A brother needs help.....
I just installed the electronics and for whatever reason this Castle 2650 motor doesn't work . When I line up the pinion to the spur, the set screw won't hit the flat spot on the motor shaft. If I flip the pinion the other way, the motor shaft isn't long enough and the set screw will only touch the very edge of it.....
This is a picture of the pinion lined up with the spur....the set screw passes the flat spot on the motor shaft....and you can see if I were to flip the pinion around the shaft wouldn't be long enough for the set screw to get a nice bite....
Anyway to solve this issue??
Thanks...
I just installed the electronics and for whatever reason this Castle 2650 motor doesn't work . When I line up the pinion to the spur, the set screw won't hit the flat spot on the motor shaft. If I flip the pinion the other way, the motor shaft isn't long enough and the set screw will only touch the very edge of it.....
This is a picture of the pinion lined up with the spur....the set screw passes the flat spot on the motor shaft....and you can see if I were to flip the pinion around the shaft wouldn't be long enough for the set screw to get a nice bite....
Anyway to solve this issue??
Thanks...