Running a 270mm sensor wire which is just the right size. Stock layout.

Anyone know of any other wing mounts that screw the wing on instead of using body clips? Not a fan of the body clips to hold the wing on.

Use a Drexel with cutting wheel. Cut the nipple off leaving about 1/16th (thickness or wing) drill a hole smaller than the screw you will be using and your done.

well, I had my first outing with the 3.0 to break it in and upon inspection I see that the hinge pins are bent. Does anyone know of a fix for this/ or aftermarket pin that wont bend as easy?

I've taken some really nasty tumbles and have not bent anything. What did you hit?

the only crashes I had were on a small rhythm section, double double single. The car was driving great but on the second pack I could tell something was wrong when it was doing 3 wheel motion like a sixfo lol. wasn't driving too hard either just breaking it in taking it easy.

.....gettin' there

The hinge pins from the 2.0 are much better but will still bend. Keep an eye on the outer rears too. Best is to get tool steel rod from McMaster and cut to length.

can't seem to find this???

Go ahead and get you some of these from m2c racing, they are Tool Steel and are strong! It is what i run in mine.. And the second link is what i did for the rear outer hinge pins from them as well..

http://m2cracing.com/product.sc;jses...&categoryId=17

http://m2cracing.com/product.sc;jses...&categoryId=17

I am looking for pics and a detailed how to on the battery forward mod. I have looked back a few pages but cant find it. I am sure its on here somewhere, would someone mind to post a link.

Thanks!

I had the link and can't find it now - someone will post it - I tried it and basically only 2 screws hold down the battery bracket and you have to grind away the inner corner of the battery bracket to clear the steering post. For me it didn't do a whole lot and made the rear a bit light .. I went back to the stock position and added some stick on weights to the inside of the rock guards.. That made it planted.. With your driving style - it may be the cheese you are looking for! - Hope that helps..

I have a 3.0 nitro chassis with the 2.0 E conversion if you want to try it LMK?

Finished the paint a lil while ago.....Slapped some stickers on..Got my slap on.
Waiting on a servo (s6100....hope that's a decent choice) n some tires....

Quick question......

I built the kit as shown in the manual....Basically going by all the pictures..
Everything went together great...The rear diff housing was a bit of a pain to line up n close,especially after I greased the gears....
Anyway...After everything went together I went back n noticed how it says something about shimming the rear diff for a better mesh. (Not shown in diagrams)
How are you exactly supposed to shim it???(I don't quite understand the discription in the manual) ....And if I leave it as is, will I have issues??

I don't get why they just didn't add that in the pictures and steps of the rear diff build.

It's very important to shim the rear diff. When done correct it will have a notched feel when turning the out drives. It's not shown in pics but it is explained in detail in manual. You will need a caliper to measure the shim size so you know what your placing on each side. Two .25 shims to the left side (side with gear) and one .25 & .10 goes to the right. And yes it is a pain to get the diff in the rear. I learned that on three of my 3.0 kits (8T 8E & 8). Becomes easier after awhile though. Good luck!!