Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

It all has to do with sales and market competition.

stelio279

iTrader: (2)

Reading between the lines, I'm guessing like each company wants to be the LAST one to come out with a kit.

I'm betting that AE, who has been without a competitive 4X4 SC in ages (arguably ever ;-) has a model based on their latest (and admittedly impressive) 1/8 scale offering ready to go. However, they are worried that TLR, which probably ALREADY has enough public upgrades for the SCTE 2.0 to call it a 3.0, will just kill any AE hype by releasing the SCTE 3.0 a couple of weeks later...

I think they are hoping that TLR will release the SCTE 3.0 next, and then they can swoop in with a big splash with an all-new SC 4X4. I may be out-of-line but I think this is what we just saw with the 22-3.0 and the B5 CE, and just now with the 3.0 Lay-Down tranny and the B6.

DoogieLee

iTrader: (42)

Im thinking its because Pro4 isnt an "elite class" such as 10th scale buggy and 8th scale buggy.
2wd SC has all but died here in FL and Pro4 just isnt what it was 3 years ago.

Numbers dont lie, 2wd buggy is THE most popular class being ran right now, I travel a good bit for work, if I stay any length of time and theres a track nearby, chances are its a 10th scale track and I am all but guaranteed a race if I bring my 2wd buggy.
If I decided to bring my ebug or Pro4, I have to do a little research and find 8th scale tracks around, and if they even have a decent Pro4 class.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Just depends on where you live or race. Rarely see any 1/10 scale buggies myself. Events like AMS, 500-600 entries, have turned into Nitro and Electric 1/8 scale shows with Pro4 trucks being a strong filler class.

The 2.0 release, chassis update, was available in Jan 2013. So it is a 2012 design. That was nearly 3.5 years ago.

Version one was available Jan 2011, but that basic design is even older if you count the Ten T from 2009.

I'm just saying it's past time for the top dog of the class to get a revision.

Fanatic01

Edit: I found the answer i was looking for.

deceit

iTrader: (-1)

hello, i recently got a losi scte, and it came with the following... i ran it twice and it burned both batteries positives off... i bought a new gens ace 5000mah 50c 2s, that ran without burning.. so i dont know if the used batteries were bad, or if the setup is bad? I haven't had a lipo rc ever, i used to have nitro and electric 10 years ago, but a lot has changed... i thought it was a good find, but it ruined 2 of the batteries that the guy sold me (i used the charge that was on the batts, so it wasn't from charging).. lol. loving the scte, but worried about the modded setup, since it burned through 2 batteries, one was bulging really bad though... any ideas?

freebird

iTrader: (3)

1st. Let me say by your pictures. I would resolver your motor connections..... They could use a better joint there.
2nd 4wd SCT's are really hard on 2cl batteries. Bullet connections are hard to get to work well with out a lot of resistance. Danny with SMC batteries had me switch all my SCT batteries to Traxxis connectors and I haven't had an issue since.

The deal here is amp draw the the SCT pulls. its real hard on 2cl's Ive gone through a ton of good batteries and some very high dollar one too. just do yourself a favor and use a better that has the Traxxis connecter and don't fuss with it any longer. No Deans; No EC3's or 5's just Traxxis.

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

Your gearing with that 4300 can should be anywhere from 14-17t on a 40t spur. A fine medium will be the 15 or 16 depending on track size.
But... As stated, the SCT is a lot heavier and more demanding of it's system due to the fact it is running equipment designed more so for lighter chassis'.

A major fix for over heating things is just to add a cap bank to the ESC. You will want one with low impedance electrolytic capacitors protected by a schottky diode which prevents alternating current from happening as the caps spike.
You can expect up to 20 degrees thermal reduction due to the extra caps and diode eliminating more voltage ripple. All SCT's should be standard with cap packs as the first upgrade to your system.
Another thing to consider is how good are your packs to begin with?
No matter what the C ratings say they are, you need to make sure your packs are low resistance with a meter check or with a good charger that can read such information.
1.9ish is ideal at full charge for resistance values for any pack.
You will want packs that are 100C rated where you can find them. While SMC sells packs that are good at 75C, they are just being more honest than other companies that claim low resistance packs, as it's said to be impossible to get a pack that is actually 100C at the size of the typical RC battery.
But outside of SMC, you will want the pack to claim 100C discharge capability.

Here is a link to a cap pack that has the diode and will definitely help your system.

Hobbywing Cap Pack

EJ2civic

As Josh and I have discussed at length already, that another big factor is that a 4 pole motor regardless of being a 540 or 550 can draw MORE current than a 550 2 POLE motor. I run 5mm bullets on both my 1.0 and 2.0 and have zero issues. My 2.0 has a Ballistic 4.5T 550 2 pole with a Hobbywing XERUN 120A V2.1. I run exclusively carpet off road with it and it is a rocket. Batteries also are a major factor. High C rating and big capacity will help with issues.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Lots of good advice here. Many different opinions. Your best bet for successfully finding and fixing whatever the problem is would be to visit your local track. Find a guy racing the same truck and let him look it over. Show him your truck and lipos. Explain what happen and that you need some help. Someone will be able to figure out the problem or problems in short order. That's the best way to fix it without going in circles buying parts or lipos you may or may not need.

Here are some things to think about. Remove pinion gear and make sure everything rolls smooth with very little drag. Check motor bearings and the kevlar wrap on the rotor. Check ESC settings. Timing should be 0 for the 4pole motor. The Castle ESCs I have worked with are set at 10 degrees stock. I don't think the Castle software in the ESC is a perfect match for the Tekin motor though. I tested the Tekin 4600 and 4300 motors with Castle ESC. Everyone will have a different experience to share, but both Tekin motors ran about 20 degrees hotter on the Castle than they did with a Tekin RX8 ESC. Always Temp gun new or new to you motors and batteries so you know your not cooking something. Run a few laps, check it. If good, run it 5 minutes and check it. If good, check it after 8-10 minutes on the next lipo after it cools off. Then you know if something needs to be changed before it burns down. Temp gun is your friend.

Races are 5 to 10 minutes just about everywhere. I use a motor fan. Still, aggressive driving in a 10 minute main will put motor heat at 180 on hot 100 degree summer days. I would not run high performance race motors and lipos all the way to lipo Low Voltage Cut off. The Tekin Pro4 HD 4300 motor is one of the best full on race motors for 4wd SCT. It makes lots of power and heat. This class is hard on lipos and electronics so best to just run the race time and not push it to the limit. If you want to run every time to lipo cutoff, buy a Castle 3800 motor to match the ESC and run it till it hits LVC. Its quick and a bulletproof system.

The 4300 has great power, but I have never run it on a pinion gear larger than 15t for big 1/8 size tracks. 14t seems right 80 percent of the time. With a fan, all bearings clean, no binding in driveline and motor bearings in good shape. You should be able to run it 8-10 minutes on a 7200mah lipo without melting or overheating anything.

With all that said, I think your problem is going to be a couple of things. First, connectors. I love solid 4mm bullet connectors. I replace them often to keep good contact. Dry Teflon lube keeps them working good for me if they are too tight. If they don't fit tight they get HOT, 900 degrees HOT! That melts solder, puffs lipos and burns plastic connectors that help maintain contact. If there is a bad solder joint or connection, that is where the heat will be.

Good luck and welcome back to the fun RC you have been missing.

68sportcoup

iTrader: (4)

what size batts do you run and what pinion and what run time can you get.
I have an endorough coming up.
90 mins non stop.
I run a hobbywing 3556 4000.
was thinking of trying a two pole.
would mean less batterie changes.
and maybe be easier on the electronics.
maybe the hobywing lvc would work better with a 2 pole.
on a normal night we rave 2- 5 min heats on one pack.
but with the losi and that motor I switch packs because some of my 6500 packs wont make 10 mins.
thanks
mike

EJ2civic

My run times vary between 5-7 min heats and mains. The truck is currently geared at 14/40. After a 6 minute main, the battery comes off the track at storage voltage at under 100*F. Battery sizes I use are 2 7600mAh and 1 6200mAh. All 3 packs are 90c constant. Running an enduro race is going to require at least 8000mAh or more UNLESS they are going to allow you to pit to swap batteries. A that point your charger should be able to push 10A charge rate or more..

stelio279

iTrader: (2)

I blew up my steering bellcrank bearing and apparently replacement bearing, Part No. LOSA6097. is discontinued. That part was described as "Losi 5x8mm Ball Bearings".

Can I assume that he diff bearings from the 22 series (TLR237000) would a direct fit?: Team Losi Racing 5x8x2.5mm Bearing (2)

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

Any 5x8x2.5 Bearing will work fine, so yes (TLR237000) will work perfectly.

CaptCarnage

iTrader: (17)

Boca bearing in Boynton beach FL has any small bearing u need in stock.