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Originally Posted by Scionara05
(Post 13199017)
Ok roll center is a lil confusing to me for the front wat would I want low or high roc
And by tranfer weight to the front what do u mean take out the rear ballast and put more in the front You can also try softer frt spring. |
battery size
Hi guys,
I ordered a b4.2 to practice with at RC Excitement (MA) and got 2 of these from hobbyking to go with it: hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=16784 I didn't realize that the leads need to come from the top. The battery length is listed at 137mm, from what I understand the maximum length is 139mm right? Has anyone used that battery on the b4.2? It looks like it won't fit, and if it doesn't I'm going to order the right battery right now. I don't receive it until a few more days so I wanted to get a head start on fixing the mistake. If anyone can help that would be great. Thank you! |
Although I have not used that battery, looks like you will definitely have issues with it fitting due to the wires exiting from the front. Best bet is to use an inboard mounted connector shorty pack on the b4.2. Gives you less weight.
heres one example from HK. Good luck. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html |
Originally Posted by HBRob
(Post 13210765)
Although I have not used that battery, looks like you will definitely have issues with it fitting due to the wires exiting from the front. Best bet is to use an inboard mounted connector shorty pack on the b4.2. Gives you less weight.
heres one example from HK. Good luck. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html |
I'm a few months/years before even thinking about tuning. I have never driven on a track before. I bought the hardpack with leads from the top and will either use the other 2 on my slash or return them. I will post back letting you guys know if it fits or not, just for fun or in case they go on sale/get really cheap one day.
Originally Posted by thecaptain
(Post 13211134)
A standard vs a shorty pack is a tuning option. Some people like it others dont. You could always add weight, if you buy a shorty.
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The battery fits. Not much room to spare but it fits, I had to remove the foam padding underneath the battery holder(don't know what it is called). Really long run times too! 2 batteries for $62 shipped, not bad.
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Hey guys curious as to which bodies besides the bulldog and the finisher are available to run on the.b4.2? As well as a link to their site? Or any characteristics of the body.
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hello guys, I have quite a big problem with my b4 buggy. I have recently instaled castle 1406 motor, but I cant stop it from moving in the motor mount and with this rear motor buggy it is really an issue. My previous lrp motor had body from 7075 alluminium and it moved ocasionally, but was easy to fixed - just screw it back again. However with the castle the motor cover where the screws go is not metal, it is some kind of plastic composit and the screws damage the holes during harder hits to a point, where the whole screw is torn out from its hole... not even red lockite works, thicker screws did not help either, all the holes on the motor are now ruined and I am thinking about buying a repair kit for 50e and hope, that it will solve the issue ( screws provided by castle were 6mm and I needed like 8, hence I think that I might have damaged it at the very begining) or buy an LRP again for like 80 euros. Do you have any experience with this castle motor, or with motors moving overall? Advice would be appreciated. Thanks
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I have 2 of those in 2 different cars and have had 0 problems except for keeping the front wheels on the ground!:lol:
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Anyone selling a b4.2 custom paint body finish?? Pm me plzzz.
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Try loosening up your slipper. That's a lot of motor for a 2wd buggy.
Originally Posted by eMDee
(Post 13241123)
hello guys, I have quite a big problem with my b4 buggy. I have recently instaled castle 1406 motor, but I cant stop it from moving in the motor mount and with this rear motor buggy it is really an issue. My previous lrp motor had body from 7075 alluminium and it moved ocasionally, but was easy to fixed - just screw it back again. However with the castle the motor cover where the screws go is not metal, it is some kind of plastic composit and the screws damage the holes during harder hits to a point, where the whole screw is torn out from its hole... not even red lockite works, thicker screws did not help either, all the holes on the motor are now ruined and I am thinking about buying a repair kit for 50e and hope, that it will solve the issue ( screws provided by castle were 6mm and I needed like 8, hence I think that I might have damaged it at the very begining) or buy an LRP again for like 80 euros. Do you have any experience with this castle motor, or with motors moving overall? Advice would be appreciated. Thanks
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I have a tekin 7.5 turn motor with a lrp flow for my brand new b4.2 rtr now I'm wondering if the stock pinion gear and spur gear is good at good fit. Stock pinion is 21 spur is 81
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Originally Posted by xavier1228
(Post 13249129)
I have a tekin 7.5 turn motor with a lrp flow for my brand new b4.2 rtr now I'm wondering if the stock pinion gear and spur gear is good at good fit. Stock pinion is 21 spur is 81
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My first!
Got my RC10b4.2 and I can't wait to drive it. Just got batteries and a charger being sent to me in the mail and can't wait to get rolling! Besides setting the esc and the receiver and transmitter is there anything else I should know about this car before I try to go? I also bought some nice high end crank shaft for steering because of some of the slop I have hoping it will help clear some up. If anyone has some awesome beginning tips throw a message my way! Love this forum!
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I'm curious as to what containers you all use to store your buggy tires. Right now I am using and old shoe box and would like to upgrade haha.
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